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ECU temp sensor stuffed? How does the car run, is it running rich? TPS set correctly (0.44v at closed throttle)? Which AAC plug are you talking about, the plug going into the valve should not make the engine stall. On a 25de to set idle speed, I have to disconnect the brown (valve) plug. A small leak is all it takes...

Those knocking sounds were quite nasty, I hope your valves are sweet. For future reference when changing belts and such rotate the engine a few turns before starting to make sure nothing is hitting and obviously triple check alignment.

On a rwd skyline, no hicas is sooo much better, even when just gripping around corners. On a BNR that was designed for cornering, I will agree with you that it possibly a part of its 'spirit', I've never pushed a gtr so can't say. Did you manage to fix the issue?

First boss kit I used on my 32 was a GTR variant as it had the tabs at 1 and 7 oclock as mentioned above, but on my gts25 they are at 12 and 6, with top being the horn. It shouldn't matter which direction you turn it, it will know when it's in the right place. Solution to all this, remove hicas

I'm curious in this too, GTR_Joey can you post here whatever information you have to offer?

If the plug is the same should be sweet

What hose did you use when you replaced the lines? Some hoses are just prone to be stinky. Charcoal canister hooked up correctly? When you say the vent line was capped off do you mean the vent for the fuel tank was closed/blocked off? I'd replace the fuel pump o-ring, cheap, easy and quick to do, leave the guesswork out of it.

The bit circled is a ball joint, pretty expensive each ($120NZD ea) and the quickest easiest way to replace without too much swearing is to remove the complete hub and press out. I'd ask the mechanic again exactly what he means by hicas rod ends as it could be just rack ends. The rod that goes from the hicas unit to the ball joint, cheap and not too hard to remove apart from figuring out how to remove the passenger side rack end. Damn HICAS! The ebay link is for the ball joint that goes on the rear lower control arm where the hub knuckle is inserted into. I'm not sure if those bushes are the same. I know r32 and r33 use a different ball joint around the suspension.

Thanks for replies guys, I was afraid I'd have to fork out big but looks like Splifires it is. I'm not changing ECU until I turbo the car which is down the line. The issue with wasted spark on stock is not the firing signal (just a matter of wiring the pairs), but the dwell time. Would the spark be weaker by about half as it's proving spark for two cylinders?

Save your money.

Hello The time has come for me to replace the coilpacks on the 25de. I'm not keen on spending big bucks on genuine ones and the aftermarket are still quite a bit. I'm curious if a waste spark system would work well on a stock 25de as that's my cheapest option. Obviously the car is still on stock ECU and the dwell time won't change, what happens to the spark in this situation? Is this a route I could go down? The car will see track days and a turbo at some stage. Just after some advice, cheers

No reason not to get a open diff to weld. Works good and cost effective. I'm personally interested in those R200 spools, anyone got one in their R200?

If you still have the old AFM, take the cover off it on the side (the black square thing) and check the solder joints where the plug contacts meet the afm contacts. Mine has done this few months and and it's a 5min fix as the solder joints dried up. If that's the case, take the plug out, clean everything and then re-solder the contacts, pop it back in and drive for a day or two to make it's all good. Than way you have a spare afm and have learned something in the process.

I got my adapter from www.stahlcar.nz. I also don't get a speed reading. I will pop open the HICAS ECU and have a look at it. Interesting that another cable worked. Does that PLMS cable have a usb or serial output?

Can you go into a bit more detail what you have done? Maybe a wiring diagram? Is the new lead going through a relay?

I got a '92 GTS25 which came factory with HICAS and I get the same symptoms as you when using a consult adapter. I have emailed the people from whom I got the adapter and they told me that due to it using power from the HICAS computer it disables the HICAS system. You measured the voltage drop so that's the cause of the heavy steering. I took HICAS rack/lines/solenoids out but left the computer with two wires cut, this way I still have nice easy steering at low speeds. If I use the consult adapter now I still get the heavy steering due to the computer still being active. Just remove the adapter and HICAS will go back to being operational. Need to swap the voltage source for the adapter to be able to use it without HICAS issues. Super HICAS is a electronic version which I believe was introduced with R33s but I'm not 100% on that. You can easily check, if you have power steering lines going into the HICAS rack then it's not Super HICAS. Also try ECUTalk and ScanTech for consult monitoring, good free programs especially the ScanTech. I think you can find both programs on the Nissan Data Scan site.

Sounds nice! What mods have you done to it? What exhaust system?

I got a app on my phone where I enter details when I fill up like how much/mileage etc so it calcutes all sorts of averages by its self which is neat. Anyway after about a year of owning a RB25DE R32 it says I get 11.19L/100k. But dang I find the engine quite hungy once I drive a bit more heavy footed, especially when in a rush.

Hello people, Finally got my first Skyline and it's exaclty what I wanted too, R32 GTS25. I will be doing a few basic maintenance things and would like some help/tips. What is a good brand/range for engine oil? Full synthetic 10w-50? What spark plugs to get? I read all sorts of things about different heat ranges etc but I have no clue about it. The car slightly misses on idle and who knows when the sparks were done so I'll want to get that off the list and see if its them causing the miss or maybe coil packs. That's all, thanks.