gaffa

pics sent

Some parts sold other parts added some parts have till 31/03 then going to the tip, so no reasonalbe offer will be refused also see here for a free rb20 auto gearbox Free auto gearbox

Tours, where abouts are you located, I'm near vermont ? on a r32 4dr they are about 1-2 cm too short but i will glady meet up with you see if they do fit my 4dr

Mr GTS4 that is a GTS (non turbo) dash cluster not a GTS-T (turbo) hence the reason for the volt meter can you please confirm which one you are selling

Free to any one that wants it prefer if you take the lot Rb20 Auto transmission Rb20 Auto tail shaft Ring gear Toque converter Also included will be any other r32 auto parts I can find SOLD

Troy I'm heading to lakes entrance this weekend can i call in on the way back and check it out ?

Do you only want the top part? As there are four screws that hold the bottom part on? If so I have it pm me with an offer

Mike I'm interested in the climate control can you supply all the loom, motors and sensors to go with it As I’m looking to try and convert an analogue to digital

can you make this the weekend after the 25th, as the SAU Deca Motokhana Round 1 is also on that same day

intrested in the viscous lsd $250, pics of diff please

found out today that it looks like my R32 diff is a R180 not a R200 looks a lot like this *note* the four bolts on the back of the housing and the six bolt pattern on the spindles if you can post images of your diffs that would help me find the one i need a lot quicker

YO880 you have PM please read

hey Chaseing a few parts to finish off my project items needed are R32 RB20det, RB25de LSD or cheap aftermaket one And 1 Nissan fuel pump either R33 or R34 turbo thanks

i have decided to keep the kit unless somone is willing to pay the asking price of $700

Hey guys I have only just finished this conversion today on a four door R32 and thought I would share some of the important stuff Parts needed (I also used all R32 coupe parts) Gearbox (make sure you get the bell housing bolts too as these are a different length to the autos) Gearbox cross member (and yes two of the bolts don’t fit) Manual Gearbox loom (if you can, but you can just cut them off the old gearbox too) Manual spigot bush (yes $15 from Nissan or cheaper if you have a bearing specialist local as it is only a brass cylinder) Flywheel with bolts (New is better for the bolts) Clutch and pressure plate Thrust bearing and holder Manual tail shaft (as the auto one will not fit, its too short and manual yoke that Fits in the gear box is different Clutch master cylinder Clutch slave cylinder Clutch master-slave line (don’t bother with the clutch loop it just makes it harder to bleed up latter just hook the master directly to the slave with the one line) Clutch fork Clutch Pedal with rubber (boot although boots are only $5 from Nissan) Manual brake pedal (or you can just cut the auto one to the right size) Rubber boot for gearstick with metal frame to hold it down Shifter Gear knob Manual gear stick surround (for the centre console) Leather gear boot for manual shifter I also got a manual dash cluster surround to lose the old auto selector but not really needed Sounds like a lot but its not really as its all little parts mainly Start by removing the tail shaft and drain the auto trans fluid Start undoing the bell housing bolts including the starter motor ones. Now there are two bolts on the top of the bell housing the one buy the driver’s side is a prick to get to Also undo your trans oil cooler lines that go to your box Now once you have all the bell housing bolts undone gearbox xmember watch out cause the gear box will drop down a bit I put a jack under it before I started undoing. Once the cross member is removed You could be able slide the gear box back a few inches now you have to undo the torque converter bolts from memory there are only 3. You have to spin the torque converter to get to each bolt once they are done the auto should slide out DONT LAY UNDER IT AND SLIDE OUT when your laying on your back this bitch is heavy I just let mine drop cause it was shagged. Anyway you will be left looking at a stupid looking disk with ring gear that resembles a flywheel remove that by getting something to lock up on the front of the crank. Now comes your biggest enemy the spigot bush don’t let any mechanic tell you that autos don’t have spigot bushes because these bastards do the spigot bush is pushed into the back of the crank now I tried everything to get it out and in my opinion there’s only 1 using a pilot bush puller $60 for most specialists I have heard of using grease and filling it then get a socket that’s a tight fit and bash the socket in and it will pop the bush out. Now you get your manual spigot bush and hit it in it goes in allot further than the auto one I used a 14mm socket with an extension and a hammer to gently tap it in. Once that’s done fit your manual flywheel clutch and pressure plate on then slide your manual gearbox on (obviously it isn’t this easy you will need to put up a fight to get the gearbox on) now your cross member wont bolt up if your using the auto or manual one only 2 out of the 4 blot holes will line up what you do here is up to you. (I just modified the manual bracket but apparently a s14 Silvia one bolts right up) fit the manual tail shaft back on and you should be rolling Auto wiring is easy inhibiter is on (telling your computer not to start cause you are in drive) there are two wires by the fuse box that need to be bridged inhibiter My reverse wire colours were (Black and Green but still in the same locations as the image) reverse When putting in the clutch pedal in you will find a Auto shift lock control mounted right where you need to put the pedal (unplug it and put it on the ground get a very large hammer and hit it as many times as you like that fixes the auto reversing beep and make's you feel good at the same time) (or move it and every time you select reverse with it still fitted the car will beep if you like that?) Every thing else is strait forward just use your common sense Most if all if possible use a hoist as doing it on a garage floor is a really stupid idea as it make things take twice as long Oh and just for all of those that though the four doors were longer wheel base no they are not this is the second four door conversion I have been involved in now one on a R32 and one on a R33 and both have used Coupe parts

indicators removed as im keeping them now

Exhaust (SOLD)

parts added and prices droped on some stuff NO reasonable offer will be refused

Shan speak to Steve at Eastern Wheel Works he should be able to do something for you (03) 5678 0790

do you have the Rb20de intake pipe ? throttle body to AMF

yeah i have the same thing happing to the pont where pages are not loading

Nick i'm intrested can you contact me in regards to coming and checking out the exhaust

manual or auto ?

yes it is the brake setup that came from the onevia

Item's: Many assorted items Stock parts R31 GTS (rb30e) (auto or manual unknown) ecu $25 R32 GTST (rb20det) manual ecu $50 R33 GTST (rb25det) manual ecu $75 pic R33 rd25det Air box $75 CA18det AFM's x2 $20 each pic A/C bracket with pulley to hold A/C compressor pump (will fit RB20,rb25,rb30) (fit tested) $15 pic R32 Standard Springs $30 R32 GTS dash cluster 99011km $50 pic After Market parts GFB boost control $35 pic Old school Trust boost control $40 pic Ganador aero mirrors $75 (for a Honda Accord) genuine pic Greedy speed limit remover for Nissan's $75 pic located in VIC 3131 All parts were tested and are working lots of parts not enough room in my garage interstate buyers are welcome but will have to cover freight costs I can be contacted via PM