lincellusion

in that case I might replace all the panels with cf

I appreciate the offer, but im in Sydney, AND am a p plater, so cannot drive a turbo thanks. I do understand when you guys say it aint built for performance worth a check but haha.

Ye its non turbo. the car has only done a bit mroe then 118000 kms, so fairly good for the car it is. I dont think I will bother with a dyno etc as I have a ffamily friend who owns an importing dealership who is looking for another car for me as we speak, so I might not need the saab next 4 weeks etc. but thanks for the advice. And yes, i probasbly should of used ebay for the parts Thanks.

haha honestly it is a crap car it keeps falling apart, one day its a broken wheel bearing and flange, the next weeks its a $580 radiator replacement. its ok, OK for a 97 SAAB but still, the power wuld be nice you know, the power it has none of...

well it was built in 1997

Hi guys. I have a saab 900s 4cyl 2.3L and am just wondering why it does not feel as good as other 4cyl cars. I have driven a 1.8l holden 4 cyl, 1.8l (I forgot exactly wot L it is, but I think it was 1.8) honda civic, and both cars simply felt more powerful and I dont know why. My car has a pod filter with cai pipe. Cannon muffler, and I also checked to see if there was any power losing slack in the throttle body cable which there was not. What I want to know is, how come these 'less powerful' cars are more powerful? am I missing something? Or is it just that a saab is not built to put the power straight to the wheels? Thanks alot guys.

Yep, as for the adaptor, I did what ya said, got a piece of paper and marker the 4 screw holes with a pen, got an adaptor that JUST fit (because the throttle body is really wide). and I couldnt stop laughing at your comment iplen, wish I could do that, but its my uncles car its strange, a Ford V6 car, yet when you put your foot down it feels as if its in winter mode (it is not), it just doesnt have the grunt I thought it would

Hi guys. My mate has a V35 300gt skyline and want to get the exhaust done. As we have found out with a few things, this car is a little bit tricker then others. The 300gt is a V6, but the exhaust weave into one single exhaust pipe. My mate wants a dual exhaust system, so have TWO pipes running out from the headers (one pipe connected to each header, instead of having the headers go into a single pipe). are there ANY bolt on kits that does this? if not, any suggestions on a good place that could do this sort of exhaust for cheap (not bad quality cheap, but he does want to get a good price, not get ripped off). Thanks alot guys.

Hi guys, just a quick Q in regards to a for cougar V6 1999. I bought 6 new platinum bosch spark plugs for it, and after spending about 20 minutes fitting my hand around the top mounted intake manifold, I was FINALLY able to remove 4 of the 6 ignition leads, the other 2 were too hard to bother with at the time. I tried removing one of the back plugs, but its simply too tight to turn the ratchet at all. Does anyone know if theres any way to do this without removing the entire intake manifold? cuz doing thats gonna take a while and I wont have alot of time tomorrow One more questions, I will be chucking a pod filter on it tomorrow morning. I had removed the airbox already, but sadly noticed the piping had no lip for the filter to attach to, so I will need to but one of those 20-30 dollar steel adaptors u find at the auto shops, what are the odds that one of those adaptors will actually fit the cougars o2 sensor housing? Thanks for any help guys, really appreciate it. NOTE for reference hers a link to what the engine bay looks like: http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/vehicle-pictures/2001/mercury/cougar/0536-050-engine-480.jpg

ahha yep, but I can see how someone can easily forget to

Ok, will do the filter trick if I can thanks

When I took the plugs out the first time, it was a brown looking liquid on the tips, then some of it dripped onto paper I had next to the car and it looked like a clean brown liquid, my guess being oil.

I took out the dipstick, the oil on it looked fine, not black (I know it aint a good idea of the oil, but a start) the oil level was just over the max line but dont think thatll matter. I might do an oil and filter change, thanks, didnt think about that. for all I know it might not be oil, maybe something else, just seems like it.

Hi guys. My mums car has been idling failrly strangley for the past month or so (she says it only started doing it AFTER she got it serviced). the car feels like it aint running on all cylinders some of the time, when you put your foot down, sometimes it is slow to respond, and as I said, feels very 'chuggy' sometimes. When you stop at a stop sign or red light the car sometimes spasms and feels like its about to stall. It is a Holden Viva, not too old, I think its an 08 model. I added injector cleaner to her fuel tank, then proceeded to clean the throttle body. this made the car feel a TINY bit better, but did not stop the idling and chuggy feeling. I then proceeded to remove the 4 spark plugs. Two plugs had oil on the tips, and the other two were dry. So I got 4 brand new plugs and chucked them in and voila, the car ran beautifully... for a week. It has started doing the idling crap again, when I lifted up the bonnet this time, there were miniscule drops of oil on parts of the engine bay, like the filter box etc. I took out the plugs, but this time they were all dry. Anyone know what the issue could be? Thanks alot.

Only been able to sand it down at the moment, it has rained a bit here and Ive gotta go out and get some more paints as I am empty now haha, will be re doing it soon though, will let ya know thanks.

My only thought, is that, this seems like alot, I mean ALOT of work to get a single panel finished, so is this the same sort of process used for an entire car respray? because if it is, I would never have thought they did all this

Ok, that is what I did wrong. I sanded it like one hour after applying the last clear coat I will give it another shot. I do have a buffer, its a rockwell one from supercheap, works well, and I got a foam cutting pad. I dont think what I used was degreaser, but I do not know, its just what I got when I needed to get a layer of wax I applied to my car a few months back, it is called grease and wax remover, got it from repco. Thanks alot guys, All the info is REALLY useful, so thanks alot.

So pretty much I sanded it very lightly then cleaned with water, then compounded it with meguiars, then used polish. It looks good, but not 'real'. It looks more like a plastic wheel arch with a bit of gloss that plastic bumpers etc have, it does not look like that glass surface, black miror like surface I think maybe I need to be using a spray gun right?

Last clear coat done, waiting to sand, unfortunately/ fortunately the sun it RIGHT on my panel, so its drying fast... thanks for the rpely, autobarn is about 15 minutes from my house, autoone and repco are about 5 minutes away, so im in a good area, will check autobarn when I have a chance and I get what you mean about the white haze, I have seen it before when my mate thought it was a good idea to sand pat of his boot because he thought it would fix the scratch............................... Thanks alot, will come back on maybe tmorro or the next day and say how I went thanks for the help fellas.

One other questions, where can I acquire proper spray gun paints, like the primer, clear top coat, and then specific colours? I know there a dulux type shop near my house, but would they have auto paints for spray guns? thanks alot guys.

Ok, I will be adding ONE more coat right now, then once it has dried, will sand all the way to a real high grit (wwhatever the highest is in my garage, I think 1500 or 2000). I am located in Hornsby, Sydney. Thanks for your replies, and I have compounds and polishes, so will sand it all down, de grease again then polish it all up. thanks alot guys.

Hi guys. Have recently gotten interested in panel beating and have acquired an unused wheel arch panel from a mates garage. It had some nasty dents and scratches, I was originally oging to just remove dents and scratches, but seeing that I gotta spray gun etc I thought I might try my hand at a total respray. I removed most dents, bogged another dent that wouldnt go straight. Then I sompletely sanded the entire panel and primes it. After priming, I sanded one last time with 1200 grit wet n dry. I did a few gloss black coats (all the spraying was spray cans btw) then a few clear coats. I am happy how new the panel looks, BUT I am not happy with the surface. The surface is not like your average cars glass smooth surface, it is the surface of dried spray paint (you know what I mean). What I want to know is, how do you achieve that extremely smooth surface? should I sand the top coat one final time then degrease it all to remove the dust? or is it just the fact that proper sprayers use that gun where the paint is charged positively and the panel is negative or whatever that spraying setup is called? Thx guys, appreciate any answers.

Actually, that gtr looks awesome... i change my mind

Honestly, I would not apply it to any car I own, I just do not think it suits a car but just wanted to understand how it worked

Thats exactly it, thanks for that, I had no idea what it was called Cheers.