petero'nell
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Posts posted by petero'nell
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No, my setup is overboosting, unfortunately I only have a 3 bar sensor which means I need to keep the boost under 28psi. Using these heavy spring actuators and a stock housing that's way too restrictive, the exhaust gas at that power can't bypass around the turbine fast enough, meaning the shaft overspeeds. At normal power levels the wastegate flows just fine. Just a simple drawback of highflow internal gate turbo's. Tao controls this using the wheel sizes, but it is subject to change depending on flow obviously. To me this just shows how efficient the compressor wheel is, and seeing the boost isn't dropping off, it likely has a lot more to give.
I was reading your own reply about the boost creep.
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152kw!! On a gtx3071! I ran 176kw an the stock turbo with Walbro pump HDI intercooler and 3" exhaust. You should be pulling at least that with that turbo. Not familiar with tao's (stao's) turbos as I've never had one but honestly haven't heard good things about them.
Once I upgrades to the intense billet RS turbo and 2.5 intake I pulled 245kw on stock injectors.
152kw on stock ecu and injectors. boost cut at 14psi lol. I've looked at the intense Rs, problem is they can't run anything less then 30psi, Car is my daily, no local E85 pumps.
Hypergear's got a totally different rep in other crowds. They are working another M35.
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Iv just purchaced a 2002 nm35 stagea and by research i may need to invest in a new turbo soon as mine has done 115k which most seem to go by then. I would like abit more power so what sort or mods and turbo should i be looking at for 200kw? Thanks
Hypergear use Garrett ball bearing cores now, their latest RV1 is a GT2971and I've got their RV5 which is a GTX3071. I've driven Stao's Stagea (hdi cooler, pod and exhaust only) with RV1 high flow, that felt like a stock turbo with bit more power, no boost creep.
Mine's cutting out at 152awkws, You will need front mount cooler, injectors, exhaust and piggy back ecu for 200awkws.
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The chra number in my M35 high flow comes up as an GTX3071. It goes really untuned, I have no complaints.
Don't know if that was covered, I've removed a bleeder jet that was connected from the actuator source to factory induction pipe. That have made a noticeable difference to down low response. The actuator fitted to mine holds 14psi directly sourced, or 17psi with bleeder before it cuts out. Try that and see if it works for you.
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Just installed my Garrett GTX high flow from by Hypergear. Holds 16psi on HDI cooler kit and 3 inches cat back with no boost controller. Car pulled much harder through out the whole rev range, not laggy at all. Will get at some ID1000 and Emanage, will share my result shortly.
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Hi All,
Just an FYI that Stao and I came across - I tested having the boost controller hooked up between the compressor housing and the actuator and then the charge pipe and the actuator. It seems that having it on the charge pipe I can achieve greater levels of boost across the board. I.E couldn't make 1 bar in first or second gear now it makes this and peaks at 18psi in third and so on easier now.
Quoting Stao's response after my test:
This experiment means there is quite a bit of pressure drop across the cooler, so the high pressure side would be opening the gate earlier while the lower pressure side will be holding the gate shut for longer, hence the boost gain. This is a good result, you might want to mention that in corresponding threads.
Hope this helps someone else with the same turbo (ATR45SAT on RB25)
Thats because the pressure differences between your cooler, helps someone with the same cooler kit maybe. Makes no differences on my truck cooler
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The engine don't care what boost pressure it getting but the amount of air it gets, 20psi out of Disco isn't the same as 20psi out of a T88. Stao have proven bigger / better coolers delivers "more cold air", even by using another bigger Takashi cooler. Your turbo works much harder with smaller coolers, not been able to delivery the same amount of air as the bigger ones, and obviously alot hotter then the better ones.
Like everyone said, do you need more then 355awkws carry shopping trolleys. or be happy with it.
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Mate's EVO with a Garrett reads off 170,000RPM at 18psi. And that thing's through hundreds of tracks days. 153,000RPM can't cause your wheel to explode.
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GCG were able to also advise turbine speeds over 153,000 rpm could cause failure. They reported quite a few failures of the 9180 used in time attack under extreme conditions.
153,000RPM is nothing for a turbo. your stock turbos probably spin hard then that at full boost. There should be no way of exploding turbine wheel at that point. Might be some welding bits fell out of exhaust manifold or things jammed into the turbine housing.
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Got results of it on a RB25det motor?
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By the way how much laggier would it be? its currently making full boost at 4300RPM. Got a dyno reading?
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You have lost two Kandos now yeah ?, given you have lost two and others have had them running for years without issue I would say there is an oil supply or drain issue in your setup somewhere at some point and that needs to be found and rectified if you want to continue using the Kando turbos or change to one that doent mind oiling issues
I'm using the hose kit that came with the turbo, my exhaust is all oil soaked, its got plenty of oil flow. My daily run a Atr43ss1pu at 20psi over two years no problem of what so ever. Stao I'm sending you my T67 for the 430rwkws rebuild. cheers.
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Stao, I've got a blown kando T67 out of my track car. Looks like the wheels have eaten through its housings. Is it worth fixing? and what are my options. Thanks.
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I had a Kando T67 with a TD06L2 exhaust wheel in 10cm. It made 368rwkws on 24psi. First one lasted 4 month and the replacement lasted 3 month. They no longer reply to my emails now. Photo of the last one:
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Stao can you tell me abit more about the new single you are testing? Since the N1 GTRs already has pretty decent turbos from factory, What are the advantages compare to the factory twins? Cheers
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Hypergear mentioned some thing about housing geometry in their latest T28 turbo. Not sure what size they ended up using, their latest ATR28 ss2 is pretty amazing for a little SR.
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It doesn't need a photo! that description is more than enough.....
Haven't you seen an internal waste gate actuator before?
That is not an actuator my friend. not sure if its me but I found your language very hard to understand.
What hypergear said was he is going to swap that externally gated turbo you have for a high flowed turbo, with you sending him your factory turbo. That is very nice of Stao offering to help. Like many said, you need a fair amount of knowledge for extensive modification. It is best to bolt on a high flowed turbo getting the power in a much simpler way.
Hypergear's is here for 6 years, welly respected member, he's modification thread is indexed and the biggest read under forced induction contain every thing you need to know. link is at:
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/
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Only because Op is looking for an internally gated factory bolt on turbo. Hypergear is better in that field.
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E85? Nothing bolt on apart from T3x manifold tho.
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Had a mechanic leaving a piece of rag in my cooler piping which caused similar issue.
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For internally bolton turbos hypergear's are much better. This sort of power should be easily archived with their current high flow, which doesn't cost more then the 20g either.
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Anyone know of someone machining out an L2 housing to suit a normal TD06 turbine?
Hypergear
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No it's not a real t3 gt3071r with the full size 60mm turbine wheel will crack 300rwkw on a sr
On nissansilvia there's a guy making
347rwkw on a gtx3071r twinscroll on just under 30psi e85 20psi by 3600rpm on VCt sr
Another
Make and model: s15 sr20det unopened engine in s13
Size of engine: 2.0L
Modifications to the car: supporting mods nismo 740's, z32 afm, greddy valve springs, copy sump, jjr exhaust manifold modded to suit 44mm tial, 3 inch exhaust, trust 400x300x100 tube and fin intercooler, 40mm china radiator, trust oil cooler, splitfires, old blitz dsbc, bosch 044 and surge tank, s15 pfc.
Type of turbo: 3071
Trim of turbo: 56T 71mm compressor .5ar housing, 84T 60mm GT30 turbine .63 housing
Rear Exhaust housing: .63 non gated
When does vehicle begin boost: dunno
When does vehicle reach full boost and what PSI: 20psi@3600
Does the vehicle have Cams? if so; yep
What brand: Unigroup spec camtechs,
What lift/duration etc: 255 11.5 in 260 12.0 ex
Max power achieve at what boost: 285rwkw@21psi on ultimate
I believe what he meant is the 28ss1 turbo made same power as a real gt3071 with 100 RPMs better response. So fitting it to above SR would result same power with better response.
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Did some evaluation and testing today based on the differences those Tomei 264 / 9mm cams. In which Tomei should have done before considering selling those to the market.
The Test turbo was a SS2 Alpha with VNT turbine.
My original result was:
Same turbo, Tomei 264 / 9 Cams:
\Isn't this identical with your original SS2's result with abit more top end?
Edit:
After having a closer look those cams did increase mid ranger from 4000RPMs and on wards.
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M35 Turbo Upgrade.
in Wagoneers
Posted
LoL
Just replaced a f*ked fuel pump. I 2nd the my Hypergear Garrett high flows is almost as responsive as factory turbo. Want to sponsor my car Stao? you can start with a ECU
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