petero'nell

LoL Just replaced a f*ked fuel pump. I 2nd the my Hypergear Garrett high flows is almost as responsive as factory turbo. Want to sponsor my car Stao? you can start with a ECU .

I was reading your own reply about the boost creep.

152kw on stock ecu and injectors. boost cut at 14psi lol. I've looked at the intense Rs, problem is they can't run anything less then 30psi, Car is my daily, no local E85 pumps. Hypergear's got a totally different rep in other crowds. They are working another M35.

Hypergear use Garrett ball bearing cores now, their latest RV1 is a GT2971and I've got their RV5 which is a GTX3071. I've driven Stao's Stagea (hdi cooler, pod and exhaust only) with RV1 high flow, that felt like a stock turbo with bit more power, no boost creep. Mine's cutting out at 152awkws, You will need front mount cooler, injectors, exhaust and piggy back ecu for 200awkws.

The chra number in my M35 high flow comes up as an GTX3071. It goes really untuned, I have no complaints. Don't know if that was covered, I've removed a bleeder jet that was connected from the actuator source to factory induction pipe. That have made a noticeable difference to down low response. The actuator fitted to mine holds 14psi directly sourced, or 17psi with bleeder before it cuts out. Try that and see if it works for you.

Just installed my Garrett GTX high flow from by Hypergear. Holds 16psi on HDI cooler kit and 3 inches cat back with no boost controller. Car pulled much harder through out the whole rev range, not laggy at all. Will get at some ID1000 and Emanage, will share my result shortly.

Thats because the pressure differences between your cooler, helps someone with the same cooler kit maybe. Makes no differences on my truck cooler .

The engine don't care what boost pressure it getting but the amount of air it gets, 20psi out of Disco isn't the same as 20psi out of a T88. Stao have proven bigger / better coolers delivers "more cold air", even by using another bigger Takashi cooler. Your turbo works much harder with smaller coolers, not been able to delivery the same amount of air as the bigger ones, and obviously alot hotter then the better ones. Like everyone said, do you need more then 355awkws carry shopping trolleys. or be happy with it.

Mate's EVO with a Garrett reads off 170,000RPM at 18psi. And that thing's through hundreds of tracks days. 153,000RPM can't cause your wheel to explode.

153,000RPM is nothing for a turbo. your stock turbos probably spin hard then that at full boost. There should be no way of exploding turbine wheel at that point. Might be some welding bits fell out of exhaust manifold or things jammed into the turbine housing.

Got results of it on a RB25det motor?

By the way how much laggier would it be? its currently making full boost at 4300RPM. Got a dyno reading?

I'm using the hose kit that came with the turbo, my exhaust is all oil soaked, its got plenty of oil flow. My daily run a Atr43ss1pu at 20psi over two years no problem of what so ever. Stao I'm sending you my T67 for the 430rwkws rebuild. cheers.

Stao, I've got a blown kando T67 out of my track car. Looks like the wheels have eaten through its housings. Is it worth fixing? and what are my options. Thanks.

I had a Kando T67 with a TD06L2 exhaust wheel in 10cm. It made 368rwkws on 24psi. First one lasted 4 month and the replacement lasted 3 month. They no longer reply to my emails now. Photo of the last one:

Stao can you tell me abit more about the new single you are testing? Since the N1 GTRs already has pretty decent turbos from factory, What are the advantages compare to the factory twins? Cheers

Hypergear mentioned some thing about housing geometry in their latest T28 turbo. Not sure what size they ended up using, their latest ATR28 ss2 is pretty amazing for a little SR.

That is not an actuator my friend. not sure if its me but I found your language very hard to understand. What hypergear said was he is going to swap that externally gated turbo you have for a high flowed turbo, with you sending him your factory turbo. That is very nice of Stao offering to help. Like many said, you need a fair amount of knowledge for extensive modification. It is best to bolt on a high flowed turbo getting the power in a much simpler way. Hypergear's is here for 6 years, welly respected member, he's modification thread is indexed and the biggest read under forced induction contain every thing you need to know. link is at: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/

Only because Op is looking for an internally gated factory bolt on turbo. Hypergear is better in that field.

E85? Nothing bolt on apart from T3x manifold tho.

Had a mechanic leaving a piece of rag in my cooler piping which caused similar issue.

For internally bolton turbos hypergear's are much better. This sort of power should be easily archived with their current high flow, which doesn't cost more then the 20g either.

Hypergear

I believe what he meant is the 28ss1 turbo made same power as a real gt3071 with 100 RPMs better response. So fitting it to above SR would result same power with better response.

Isn't this identical with your original SS2's result with abit more top end? Edit: After having a closer look those cams did increase mid ranger from 4000RPMs and on wards.