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SimonR32 last won the day on February 3

SimonR32 had the most liked content!

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About SimonR32

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    Rank: RB30E
  • Birthday 07/26/1983

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  1. All I see are excuses Should go very well, keen to see how fast it traps. What dyno is it?
  2. My first motor died after about 4 years with varying levels of power from 450kw to 550kw. It died a sad death when it dropped a valve guide (it had actually dropped 11 of them but the others had shot out the exhaust). Bottom end was still mint when it came out. New motor has been going a few years with 520-567kw with a few different cam combos. Seems to love life and gets driven fairly hard at the track a lot and 1000m drags. - power on workshop dyno (lets be honest these do differ quite a lot) 567kw on a dynapack hub dyno - turbo with rear housing and psi Precision 6262 0.84 with just over 30psi - basic engine mods mild ported head and smallish cams - fuel United E85
  3. I'm so going to win this game haha
  4. So they definitely (in my case anyway) don't bolt straight into stock housing. There is 3 places that need clearancing, 2 for the selector forks and 1 for 6th gear. In saying that, a die grinder and flapper wheel makes it reasonably easy and not too time consuming.
  5. I swear they have just jumped in price on High-Octane website?
  6. So they have been kicking around for a year or two in some cars and looks like a few of us have taken the plunge and made a purchase so just wondering what information is out there. 6 speed sequential that fits inside the standard GTR 5 speed case and bolts straight in. Got a nice load cell and rotary position sensor so you can set up closed loop flat shifts with a decent ECU. Gear ratios seems very sensible and friendly at 2.706 / 1.894 / 1.471 / 1.184 / 1.000 / 0.812 but have no options. Big 26-spline input shaft so requires a new clutch and rated at over 1000hp. Fair bit cheaper than a Holinger (with all the extras you need), Albins (which needs to have floor cut) and around the same price as an OS88 but with a lot more tech. Seems they have run into a few issues along the way but have been quickly fixed under warranty and new versions have been introduced to fix. Claims of 38ms shifts (probably more like 50ms) is still crazy fast if set up correctly. Who is running one? How easy was the ECU set up for flat shift? Anyone keen to share some experience or settings?
  7. Leaving SA today, so hopefully late this week/early next week... Or if it's with Australia Post sometime in 2019
  8. Update, clutch has arrived, FPR and high octane trigger kit are getting installed today... Just waiting on gearbox
  9. Let's play a game... I have to receive a clutch... and a gearbox and fix my fuel pressure issue with a new fuel reg and install the clutch and box You have to install a gearbox... Who will win
  10. "Is it in yet"... that's what she said
  11. Also good point Richard makes about the water/ethanol boiling, I always drive my car to the track before thrashing so anything that could be potentially hazardous to the engines health with likely be gone by the time any thrashing occurs
  12. The question is, is that ethanol affecting the oil or water condensation? and is that straight after driving the car or because you left warm oil sit in the catch can? Also nice and dandy for straight line stuff, that's never been the issue... Trying hammering around a Racetrack and you will see why it's better to have oil from the catch can drain back into the sump rather than no oil in the sump. I'm also going to take a bet that my car not only survives Racewars and Powercruise weekends (and years and years of them) but also is more than happy to lap tracks running 2 bar with no issues
  13. Once again, how is that different to the oil/mist in the cam covers that drains back to the sump?
  14. Exactly what is the difference between the oil in the cam covers and the catch can? Does it magically change it's properties when it travels through the line between the cam covers and the catch can?