AnDreeZy

#k_d I got the stock gtr cat and a high flow cat sitting in my yard LOL

Do you have the size? Or any modification needed to fit into a gtr fuel rail and harness?

Just testing the waters locally for my 1989 R32 GTR 63k km on the dash (not sure if legit, but seemes clean enough) Very Clean interior, stock GTR seats, dash perfect and uncracked (rare) Drivers bride brix 1.5 New fully forged engine by chasers motorsports with receipts for most things from previous owner in ViC <2000 km on the twin 2860-5 turbos Haltech platnium pro ECU ~ safe tune Apexi power intake pods Gates timing belt Adjustable cam gears Freshly built head (you can see for yourself the fresh acid dip) 18x9.5 sparco racing wheels Brand new excedy HDCB Clutch Walbro 255lph fuel pump Carbon fibre weathershields +++ More but id have to go throgh my stacks of receipts!! 1 More month of ACT REGO!! The setup will easily make well over 300kw with bigger injectors (I have ID1000 injectors ready to go in for extra) looking for $14k ONO or $12k ONO with stock ecu and different wheels Or if you want everything done for the 100k km service it will be 13.5k + whatever your choice of mechanic charges Why so cheap? Because.... I beleive it needs a new tensioner pulley the pulley was making a weird noise one morning and after further investigation the timing belt has a bit of slack. Ever since discovering this i havent driven the car just to be sure! i beleive the timing will need to be redone aswell because the CAS was removed to check the belt Drove like a dream before; most probably will still drive like a dream now, however dont want to risk a possible catastrophe! it would be safer to say it needs to have the 100,000 km service as a precaution while the whole front cover is off to have the tensioner bearing (and everything associated) changed before driving anywhere There is also a minor dent along the drivers side door and rear fender were the front wheel picked up something. after spending all this money of the engine and personal issues that have come up i cant afford to spend any more on this beast! i am way too busy atm to do organise a 100k km service. wont be free until february 2014, so the car is up for sale until then ! if you want to view the car give me a text on 04 1037 1188

Hey man still have the N1 lip? If you do can you send me pics of the rust/wavy to 0410371188

Anyone have a spare set of r32 gtr suspension? Some retard put king springs in my R and made it 3mm too low for Rego >.< ffs Mainly after the rear set would be nice to borrow if possible?

Wanna buy 32 gtr? Only problem is being a massive headache finding someone to pass it through Rego .. Hence wanting to get child restraint bolts a quieter exhaust to pass through Dickson..

Afaik all r32 is the same except you would have an extra point in the middle instead of just 2 behind the speakers. Where are you located? Give me a text on 0410371188 Thanks bro

Anyone have a spare set of r32 baby restraints I can buy / borrow for roadworthy? Also anyone have stock/ quiet r32 gtr exhaust? Apparently my 3 inch super dragger is too loud LOL. And is my interior chassis supposed to be the same color as my body panels? Mines black inside....

Haha alright ill jsut get some 10-30 or whatever autobarn has on sale for cheap. will let the old oil drain cold for an hour or so then add the new oil and then prime the shiet outa the turbos coolant is all good will do a heater on bleed once im running the car with the mineral oil Thanks for the advice

I'm fair sure it's just some acronym used by NGK about the spark head. Platinum plugs have a different code like IX at the end and cost more than $4 a plug haha Anyways would it be safe to run the normal cheap (mineral) oil to try flush out any debris for a few Kms then drop it and pour in some full synthetic? Or will this damage my engine more than clean it?

i think both bkr7e and bcpr7e are both copper/standard plugs which need general maintainence? is there comparisons between them? Battery is on a charge tonight, will try again tomorrow And anyone ever flush their 26 out with mineral oil and then changedback to synthetic oil before? aparently mineral wont go through small cracks like synthetic does?

Anyways back on topic! Cranked like 2 times thn my battery died Also found out I wa running bkr7es Is there and advantage to this spark plug compared to bcpr7es? Also my attessa kept making a sort of rubber runnin on glass burbling sound when the battery was low and the torque gauge would twitch to 1 and attessa would turn off ? And start up again after 5 secods? Is this normal? Accumulator f**ked ? D:

you dropped the old oil cold and dropped new oil in straight away? i just opned up my coilpacks and found oil, i was shitting myself until i touched it and it turned outto be brand new oil in some dirt haha guess previous owner wasnt steady with his hands when putting oil down the cylinder LOL

ive managed to strip 1 bolt on the intake cam cover because of the stupid screwdriver head bolt. mustved been locked in by the gasket glue or something.... wouldnt even budge with an impact driver >.< rest of them came out fine

It's been 6 months now since I decided to endevour the difficult task if r&r of the shit rb26 stock turbos. Delay after delay from wrong banjo bolts to dropping bolts down my turbo. Wanting to do everything right so I won't take it out again anytime soon! Anyways I have finally completed the task! Cars been sitting for 6 months without starting and I would like some opinions before I give her a crank Long story short should I change oil with mineral to flush then drop again for synthetic or just leave oil and put new synthetic oil in after its at OT I have changed the coolant so it's fresh I will be taking out the spark plugs and dropping a bit of oil down the piston tops to help guard against removing surface rust Changing spark plugs while I'm at it Checked all hoses and lines. Now finally the oil is Dam filthy. Wouldn't feel happy with it running through my engine so a change is a must. But the head/cam lobes is pretty much dry from sitting around So I was thinking of dropping the oil cold and finding a cheap synthetic oil to flush out the system of any possible stupid previous owner debris before the first start! And then draining the cheap oil and filter for proper synthetic oil? This way the head gets more lubed up and the old oil gets flushed out easily? And hopefully it primes my new lines? My problem: is it alright to use mineral oil to flush out the old gunk (for < 100km ) cause synthetic oil seems a bit of a waste to use as a complete flush, or am I better off just biting the bullet and let the cam lobes grind on the lifters for a few seconds and change the oil and filter normally after that? Wanna reduce metal on metal as much as possible