Slattery Gts-t

Today i noticed my stag was blowing smoke under full throttle, it use to blow smoke after heavy deceleration but it stopped that and changed to blowing smoke under heavy acceleration Anyway while driving today i pulled over to take a phone call and when i took off it started blowing heaps and heaps of smoke so i pulled over and turned it off when the smoke cleared i started it up again and it immediately started pouring smoke from the exhaust. I got the car towed home and took the dump pipe off and there is lots of oil at the back of the turbo and in the exhaust so this tells me the turbo has s**t itself correct? Anyone got a 33 or 34 turbo laying around they want to sell?

No one has anything to input ?

Update, I realised when i checked the g sensor under the console for power i left it unplugged so after plugging that back in and bridging out the relay again i only get error code 32 (E-TS solenoid and circuit), After going over the wiring diagram it shows the relay should get its earth from the attesa ecu but its not so im starting to lean towards the attesa ecu has give up. If you look at this wiring diagram it shows pins 2 and 5 on the ETS actuator relay as having ign +12v but with the attesa ecu plugged in these pins are earthed out with it unplugged the pins have power as they should (i assume this relay is the 4WD relay in the fuse box under the bonnet?) Any input would be great!

My Stagea has had this problem for a while now, it wont shift into 4th/overdrive, the revs drop when in "D" when not on the accelerator but any acceleration and its in 3rd It acts normal with overdrive off (Engine Brakes) but just wont grab 4th when i switch overdrive on I ran diagnostics on the gearbox and it come back with no faults iv no idea where to go from here?

My car was off the road for 3 months with a blown head gasket and iv finally got it back together and going again but now my ABS and 4WD light on the dash is constantly on Iv found that the 4WD relay under the bonnet isnt getting its +12v switch so i ran a wire from the battery to the power out pin where the relay plugs in and the abs unit seemed to spring to life and the ATTESA ecu finally started showing me some error codes (21,61,62). i Started the car and the abs light come on after a few seconds then a few seconds after that the 4wd light come on again. So obviously im not getting any power to the ATTESA ecu or ABS unit all because im not getting this IGN +12v switch to the relay, Also the the +12v that feeds the relay is only getting 11.5v when the battery is showing 12.7v While the car was sitting i accidently left an interior light on completely draining the battery so i replaced it with a blue top optima Im out of ideas as iv tripple checked every fuse and cant find a dud ? a wiring diagram would be really handy

My car was off the road for 3 months with a blown head gasket and iv finally got it back together and going again but now my ABS and 4WD light on the dash is constantly on Iv found that the 4WD relay under the bonnet isnt getting its +12v switch so i ran a wire from the battery to the power out pin where the relay plugs in and the abs unit seemed to spring to life and the ATTESA ecu finally started showing me some error codes (21,61,62). i Started the car and the abs light come on after a few seconds then a few seconds after that the 4wd light come on again. So obviously im not getting any power to the ATTESA ecu or ABS unit all because im not getting this IGN +12v switch to the relay, Also the the +12v that feeds the relay is only getting 11.5v when the battery is showing 12.7v While the car was sitting i accidently left an interior light on completely draining the battery so i replaced it with a blue top optima Im out of ideas as iv tripple checked every fuse and cant find a dud ? a wiring diagram would be really handy

Sorry didnt realise the last post wasnt the original poster ninety3 the last paragraph was directed to you

Did you get the M6 bolt out? dont worry about the spring inside the inlet cam gear, just undo the four screws and the plate and spring will come out then you have access to the main nut or bolt that holds the cam gear on I too felt uneasy about letting that spring go but when you remove it it will all become clear I nearly stripped a head stud too but if your in doubt get a brand new alen key and cut it down and hit it into the stud gently with a hammer to make sure its in all the way then put your 10mm socket over it with your breaker bar (hope your not using a rattle gun for these studs)

Iv never played with electronic boost controllers or twin turbo set ups so im sorry i cant help you with that, Hopefully someone else can post up something to help you out!

Hey mate, Im pretty sure stock boost on a R32 GTR is around 10psi but certainly not 15psi I think he might be talking about the boost restrictor which is a little piece of pipe that is inside the vacuum line that runs from a T piece in the line to the wastegate, The line bleeds a bit of air back into the intake and has a restrictor inside of it, if you remove it it lets it bleed a bit more air and increases boost If you have a full free flowing exhaust and a pod then removing it may just as well increase it to 15PSI and even cause a small spike but id put my money on the spike being caused by the boost controller not being set up properly Anyone please correct me if i am wrong as iv only had experience with RB25'S

Thanks for all your replys! seems like the right turbo for my goals But, the bank which first up approved my loan has now decided to decline at this point in time so this plan has now been set back for a few months until i get settled into my new job, Ill be still going ahead with it just not as soon as id hope. To add to it last night i changed the dying factory turbo for my highflowed turbo which i had sitting around (was trying to keep it stock until i had the engine managment side of things sorted) and about half an hour ago i went for a drive, boosted to 10psi and clunk the exhaust wheel went out through the exhaust!

Iv actually got a bit of a head start as far as handling is concerned the car has Tein coilovers all round and front and rear strut braces, also 265's on the rear to help with traction, but all this doesnt help if i cant handle it so that will be my key focus So with a good tune at the 250rwkw mark the engine should potentially last years? providing i dont flog the guts out of it all the time

SilverS2 what ecu are you using?

Its a GTX iv read that they spool a little bit earlier than a GT, and that they make more power at high psi (22+ PSI) compared to the GT

Yeah true! I do have a blown engine in my shed that i plan to slowly build up so i wanted to buy a turbo that can give me the power im chasing now and then more when its built