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Jordie Lewis

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About Jordie Lewis

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    Rank: RB20DE

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  • Car(s)
    '93 R32 Type-M
  • Real Name
    Jordie Lewis

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  1. Yea thats the thing that gets me. I design stuff for production at my day job. There would be no way I would release a part or product that would require that much dicking about to get to work properly. AND sell it as a bolt on solution.
  2. Here you go. Not on SAU but its pretty detailed. You might need the photobucket fix extension for chrome to see the first post but other than that its all though flickr so it mostly works. https://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=579803 Enjoy -Jordie
  3. Just to update everyone. Got the car together and running. No leaks or big dramas. Ive adjusted the ITBs and managed to get everything to idle at around 1050-1100 RPM. Which seems decent by old ITB standards. Since im an expert at removing it all, I might try from throttle coat over the winter. Drove it to work today and it ran super well (surprisingly) with my tuned ecu. Once I figure out a turbo and manifold I will properly get it mapped. If anyone has any questions about this conversion, feel free to inbox me.
  4. I drilled them all out to 9.5mm and everything mounted up just fine. I used a little bit of RTV sealer to make sure it seals well. I filled the coolant with water to check for leaks and we are all good (yes I have added rad hose clamps ) Just need to get some cold side piping fitted and I should be able to start it all tonight. Fingers crossed.
  5. Got everything all apart again last night. You're right, 10 holes line up with those in the block. I am going to drill out the threads and get fasteners to go right through the plates into the block. There seems to be enough tolerance in the holes that if they are not 100% bang one (less than 1-2mm either way) it should still all bolt up. I believe that I have the right fasteners for the job but Ill assemble tonight without gaskets and double check. -Jordie
  6. no no I mean the cast portion of the intake manifold assembly. that goes between the throttle body and the adapter plate. I have it all apart again now. going to take another crack at it.
  7. it started leaking at the back. it looks like when I bolted the RB26 balance tube piece on, one of the bolts was a little proud and caused the plates to separate. New gaskets should be here today so Ill try again
  8. Can confirm Otaku plates leak like a sieve. There are just too many failure points. I slapped on my old setup so I can at least enjoy my car for the rest of the summer. Ill revisit this again over the winter. Am gutted.
  9. Damn. I really wish they had $500 RB26's where I live. Would have saved me lots of headaches. 😄 Yea. I was surprised that Otaku didn't do that from the get go. I used an M8 x 80mm bolt to go through everything and thread into the block. Did you make a gasket for in-between the plates as well, or did you just use RTV?
  10. This is correct. the holes lined up perfectly here. So I drilled the threads out and de-burred the holes. There were a couple other holes which almost lined up but were not spot on and would require some enlarging to fit properly. Ill see how it goes, my injector seals showed up this morning so It shouldn't be much longer before I try and fire it up. Ill keep you all posted. -Jordie
  11. Now I understand. Copied from my build thread on Zilvia So. As the saying goes, bolt on is never truly bolt on. This post will detail the mission, rather exercise in frustration that is getting ITBs to fit with the Otaku RB20DET adapter plates. People who have used them have just said that they are tough to get to work correctly but dont offer any details in what the process actually was. To start, I would like to add that they were quick to answer any questions I had over instagram and this isnt a stab at them or anything. When I had mocked everything up on the stand there was a huge interference in between the coolant passage on the Rb26dett intake manifold and where the thermostat would like to live. Turns out that even with the proper parts it would be a game of Millimetres to get everything to play nice. Otaku instructed to get an RB30 thermostat housing for more clearance and to modify the lower coolant passage. I marked in black the areas I needed to further modify the thermostat housing. Modified the coolant passage and machined down the lower screw boss to get it to clear the thermostat housing. Just clears as is but still no room for the lower rad hose. Got the thermostat housing cut and angled down to free up some more space. Also you can see I had to countersink the top bolt hole as well. Everything finally clears. Time for "final" assembly. I also drilled out the threads marked with the "X" this is to allow the fastener to go through both plates into the block. I was concerned that the small area around the front water port wouldn't seal correctly. I made a gasket to go inbetween the two plates and used a light buttering of RTV to make sure everything is sealed correctly. I completed the assembly with an HKS RB26dett intake manifold gasket set. Those are the main hurdles in getting the otaku ITB adapter kit to work on RB20det. I can see why people knock on the kit because its pretty fiddly and doesnt fit out of the box. Now I dont know yet if it leaks or anything. This was just to make it all physically fit.
  12. Sorry for bumping and old post. Just wondering if you or anyone else has any experience in using this adapter plate. If so what were the main hurdles needed to get it to work.
  13. Thanks for your help. The car is an R32 GTS-T I have most of them labeled but it was just these few that were left which leads me to believe that they were for the A/C system. I would if I could. The reason i am having difficulty is because the car was incomplete when I bought it. perhaps I should just run the wires for the headlights, signals, cabin air temp sensor ( which I believe is plug #5 as it is paired off with the horns in the centre of the harness) and horn and remove almost everything else.
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