Silver_r33

BezerkR32, the MPH is not exactly a 100% foolproof measure either. Things that are not power related can make a difference to your MPH, yet not increase your power output by a single HP. Things like suspension, tyres, weight, drag, gearing (gearbox and diff).

1Jz has intake and exhaust on the opposite sides to the RB series. I dont think that the effort of putting one in would be really worth it, considering the rb26 and rb30 swaps are much more straight forward. Additionally, the exhaust being on the "wrong" side makes it closer to some things that you dont want to heat up... Sure you'd have bragging rights, but would it be worth it?

Do a search champ, this has been discussed numerous times, including graphs and flow numbers.

Judging by that dyno graph, it shows that positive boost (around 3psi) is made ~3300rpm and full boost is achieved at ~5000 rpm? Is it just me or does that seem a little late?

OK, lets just set something straight here: For a constant volume if you want to increase pressure you have to: A ) add more gas (ie additional molecules); or B ) increase the temperature. For a given constant amount of gas (note that i said AMOUNT, not volume): A ) to increase pressure, you reduce volume or increase temperature B ) to maintain a constant pressure in a reducing volume you have to add more gas or increase temperature. As MattSR said - PV=nRT, where P is pressure, V is Volume, T is Temperature, n is the amount of the gas in moles and R is a constant. Does this clear it up?

FWIW, if he's got a 1J thats stroked, its probably a 1J head on a 2J bottom end, meaning the combo is a 3L. As for 2 bar a 4000rpm, well i couldnt comment.

Noooooooooooooo! You could have at least posted a pic of a chaser with out the crappy coloured indicators! As for performance, i can say the chaser has it regardless of the weight disadvantage. I've owned a 95 r33 and even in stock trim the chaser was quicker. Agreed that in stock guise that the Chaser looks boring, however the 34 isnt remarkable either. Delete the rear spoiler, lower and add rims and you have a hot looking car. OK maybe i'm bias!

I tell you what, up the boost to 1.2 bar, and when you "somehow" lose all power and your cat seems to have some kind of ceramic object in it, dont be suprised. Do a search and it'll become apparent that this exact thing has been discussed MULTIPLE times.

I'm pretty sure you *do* still want a sock on there so that the larger particles dont get in the inner workings of your pump and wear it away prematurely - maybe try to get a new genuine Nissan part and attach that? AFAIK the fuel filter will catch the smaller particles (the ones that screw with the tigher tolerances of the injectors) than the sock does.

Low 20's? I've seen stockish 95 models go for 16.5k. Check other cars in the classifides section.

Yup need to plug them holes. I've debadged it too, so the boot needs a fill and respray. Plus i need rims, need a TRD grille, and... and... I got my Chaser complied in Penrith (TGB Unique Imports) and didnt actually see it in the flesh until I picked it up from the complaince shop. From memory it was $6k including tyres, and the only option at the time. Getting it done is really a hit and miss, i had no problems with TGB (except for the delays in paperwork, but that was out of their hands).

I think everyone here has missed the tags that should have been in mmmgtir's posts...

Yeah thats mine! Removed the spoiler cause it looks so much better without it. Just have to get it resprayed in the factory colour which is proving hard to do. Some nice rims and a FMIC and i'll be set for 220Kw and some sweet cruises

I completely agree, when i was looking at the auction prices over a year ago, the difference between an auto and manual was 400k yen. Too high a premium i think, but others dont think so. I paid around $25-26k at the end of the day for mine on the road and everything, and i went thru Prestiege (same with my previous R33). Good service and a lot of cars to choose from. My car was actually bought after it passed in at auction and we negotiated with the buyer directly. Very happy with it all. Except for the time taken to ship and complaince, but that is always the case! :wassup: I have to say tho, that the Auto is not too bad at all, just waiting to drop the PFC in and tune it so i can change the shift points around I just finished adding a Blitz SBC i-D on mine (still need to sort out some issues tho) so ask away with the questions!

Oh geez, here we go! I vote the JZX100 for sure. Ok, maybe i'm bias, but they're hot. And no where near as many on the roads as the 34's, so relatively unique. However that works against you when you're modifying it, as i've found out recently....

Um, guys dont forget he's carrying a little less ballast in the GT-t compared to the GTR. I was going to say power was similar, but a re-read showed that i was dyslexic for a bit, thinking the GTR has 235 not 253 Um, aerodynamics? Gearing? You're just cooler? Loads of possibilties

I dont think you're right there - the r33's (s1 and 2) had ceramic exhaust wheels i'm pretty sure. R34 i dont know about.

However, even though you pass the noise test you may not be legal still unless you adhere to the standards regarding how far back and where you are allowed to vent exhaust gases. In the ACT i am prett sure you are *only* allowed to vent exhaust gasses out behind the rear bumper and are not allowed to vent at an angle. Just something to think about.

They do come with a 1jz, but its a later version with VVTi and a single turbo, instead of the twins. Slightly different specs wise, and the version i have develops peak torque at 2400rpm, rather than 4000-odd. I've also been told the heads are slightly different too with no abnormalities on the ports where as the earlier versions have 2 ports (i think its exhaust on 2 and 5) that are slightly squashed. Enough differences for tuning them differently? I dont know...

Very nice and clean car! Free bump

Thanks for the replies guys, its really looking like Integra is the way to go since i'm really not that keen on a trip to Sydney to tune it. I may be heading to Melbourne sometime soon, so perhaps ICE would be a goer, but even then i'm a little reluctant to go interstate for a tune especially if something goes wrong.... i mean what happens if something *does* go wong? Its not like i can tow it to the workshop... The crap thing is that, unlike Skylines, the Chasers havent been tuned that much, so reputable mechanics that know them aren't around. I think i will have to bite the bullet and go to someone who charges a premium but has a good reputation.

Hey guys, I've just recieved some goodies in the mail (Power FC, SBC iD3, Adj. cam gear) and once i sort out a FMIC i'll be taking my Chaser somewhere to get the PFC tuned. I was wondering what workshops locally have a good reputation and are familiar with tuning the PFC. Cheers

But that is always the case for over 100k klms cars, the prices are substantially cheaper than say an 80k car. That being said, when i purchased my car about 12months ago i paid close to 800,000 FOB for a series 1, 4/b, 1/98 with 90k kms on it, which i thought was pretty damn good at the time. Everytime you look you always seem to find a car which is slightly cheaper than the one you bought

So what are the actual trim levels and the differences? Avantes and ??? I've also noticed that you have no badges on yours (bar the Toyo badge), while i have only got "Tourer V" on mine, while other chasers actually have "Chaser" on them too. Weird....

Acutally, here are some pics of my car in Japan prior to getting on the big boat