gold-3lt

I have for sale a RB30e series 2 bare block with crank. $150 neg. excellent condition, minimal rust scale in water gallerys, still has factory cross hatch hone marks. pick up from brisbane northside. 0433 559 722.

I've got a standard VL turbo conversion for sale which consists of a garrett T3 turbo, standard turbo exhaust manifold painted vht heat proof cast iron, standard turbo intake manifold, standard cast pipe from turbo to dump pipe painted cast iron, standard brown top turbo injectors with fuel rail, braided oil and water lines, banjo bolts and copper washers, standard crossover pipe with pipe welded in for blow off valve, vl turbo engine loom (to suit knock sensors), vl turbo camshaft, na auto gearbox, 3TM manual turbo ecu. $1500 negotiable. SOLD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So this would be the easiest way without painting? Any idea where i might be able to buy glass beads? Also i had another idea.. what about those ultrasonic solutions some cylinder head/engine rebuilder shops have where they immerse the parts in the solution and they come out clean. Are these tubs pretty standard in those kind of shops these days?

Hi i'm looking to get one of my rb25 intake manifolds looking as if it's new again preferably without just cleaning it with parts cleaner and painting it silver. Doe's anyone know what is the best way to get that nice semi shiny alloy look the same as the factory appearance?? I'm not sure if the plenum and intake is cleared only from the factory or if it is just left bare alloy but i was thinking off sandblasting (handheld air compressor type) them on the outside completely then use wax and grease remover, let dry then spray with a non-gloss clear. I sandblasted an rb30 plenum not long ago and it came up really clean but for some reason it went really dull and almost grey rather than that nice alloy colour. the compressor i used couldnt supply enough pressure but i cant be certain if that was the reason for this. Any help/info would be appreciated

I've got a standard VL turbo conversion for sale which consists of a garrett T3 turbo, standard turbo exhaust manifold painted vht heat proof cast iron, standard turbo intake manifold, standard cast pipe from turbo to dump pipe painted cast iron, standard brown top turbo injectors with fuel rail, braided oil and water lines, banjo bolts and copper washers, standard crossover pipe with pipe welded in for blow off valve, vl turbo engine loom (to suit knock sensors), vl turbo camshaft, na auto gearbox, 3TM manual turbo ecu. $1500 negotiable. 0433 559 772.

I think that might be the go . Put the 30det in my sedan and then just rebuild the rb25 to standard specs and put that in the wagon with some 4.11 gears and fmic. It may not be as fun to drive as the 30det but at least it will be nice and reliable. Don't really need two overly powerful cars anyway. the wagon was only ever meant to stay na but oh well.

Yeah i probably would'nt do either if i were you. I'm currently studying diesel fitting and i'm hoping to find an apprenticeship by january sometime if i can. however for my work experience i could only get into a normal everyday mechanical workshop and i can tell already that i wouldnt like it long term. For how dirty you get and how much swearing you do changing CV shafts, lower control arm bushes, V6 engine mounts and all that shit you'd want to get paid a bit better for it in return. every day i get burnt doing stupid toyota oil filters which are right under the exhaust manifold. So i'd say look into deisel fitting or auto electrical areas. even hydraulics would be good.

Compression test, fuel pressure test, timing, spark plugs, ignition lead and coil tests, a/r ratio's, test all connections and coolant temp sensor as well as o2 sensor, exhaust system check, blocked cat, waste gate actuator, boost leak?

Ok hopefully everything is fine then. it only has 94,000 k's on it. If someone doesnt mind answering a few questions i have that would be great because i dont want to make up another thread if i dont have to.. I bought this motor with the plan of building a rb25/30 with vct, using a fully rebuilt rb30 bottom end and cast pistons with a power aim of 200 - 220kw atw on the first build but to have a motor capable of 300 kw with further upgrades and new ecu. But now after buying this rb25 which is all there just stripped, marked and bagged up I am considering just replacing all the bearings, rings, studs, head bolts then just put it back together with a full gasket kit after getting the head and block cleaned and machined (light bore hone). This would save me a fair bit of cash that would other wise be spent replacing and modifying various parts on the rb30 bottom end and modifying the head to keep the VCT. The problem is i have never driven a car with a rb25 or rb30det in it so i dont know how differently they respond on the street. So if anyone can help me make a decision that would be really good. I love the sound of rb25's but ultimately i'm after a engine that has excellent response and torque with a strong mid range and ok top end while still being smooth and reliable. thoughts?

Should i be worried about damage to rods or anything from the sudden backwards movement of the crank?

I may be able to get a hold of one as i know a few mechanics and im studying diesel fitting so i may be able to get a hold of one at the trade college. Thats what i was thinking of doing since the crank took the impact ( yes it appears to have fallen nearly straight on thge end of the crank but more on the bottom end of it. theres kind of a half moon shape in the concrete where it. It was just regular garage concrete not the really shiny hard stuff. Other than the crank, what other damage could arise from this other than the bearings? I'll get a couple more pics up when i get the crank out. the girdle just doesnt want to come off easy.

Hi i need some advice on this.. Over the weekend i bought a complete rb25det which was loaded onto a commodore ute as a short motor to minimise weight. it was then decided that we would take the motor off the back of the ute while still on the engine stand. i had the heavier end with the engine stand and had my end just about off the tray when the guys mate who i bought the motor off couldnt hold the weight and simply let go causing his end to drop to the ground. Now the only part that appears to have been hit is the end of the crankshaft and if you werent told you wouldnt even know it had hit the ground even if you looked at it close up. there is barely a scratch . the block, tensioner stud? and sump appear to have not been hit at all. Now i dont care if the bearings are stuffed because i was going to replace them anyway but i want to know if there could be any other damage?? on inspection after the fall the main bearings had previously been looked at and the main caps were slightly loose giving a gap between them and the girdle of maybe a mil max. also the very rear counter weight on the crank was sitting just between the girdle and block so i dont know if that would have evenly distributed the blow or not. Any help would be much appreciated.