gold-3lt

Sorry to hijack a thread but i'm having this exact same problem on my vl and need it fixed asap so i have a car again. Problem with mine is that the clutch wont disengage until the pedal is pushed hard against the floor and even then there is only juuust enough movement to disengage the clutch. My clutch pedal is also adjusted right out and have also swapped master and slave cylinders but that doesnt appear to be the problem. there was also zero air in the system. Engine is a rb30, gearbox: rb30 na mf5, clutch: brand new rb25det (i think) exedy hd sports tuff single plate (the pink one). What i decided to do is use the throw out bearing that came with the clutch which is no doubt to suit the r33gtst box and i have used this throw out bearing on the vl carrier rather than the r33 carrier as i am using a vl gearbox with the rb25det clutch. What i did notice is that the r33 bearing had a taper which located it right centered in the hole in the pressure plate prongs which meant it sat in slightly where as the vl throw out bearing was larger in diametre and maybe slightly in height meaning it would push higher up on the pressure plate prongs and would still end up centred as the shaft would locate into the clutch hub and spigot bush. I also noticed that the r33 carrier is definately a different height to the vl although they look identical. So anyway what i'm thinking is that the rb25det throw out bearing on the vl carrier doesnt have enough throw to disengage properly. and also the r33 TO bearing sitting right in the centre of the pressure plate may mean it needs more throw to flex the pressure plate than the vl TO bearing that sits higher up. Anyway i'm taking the box out again and i'm pretty annoyed with myself so i want to get this right. I'm planning on now using the vl throw out bearing on the vl carrier in the vl gearbox and hope that will fix my problem as everything will be as per factory specs except the clutch, which looks identical to the old one that was in the rb30 box and is the exact same diametre. So what are everyones thoughts and as to what the problem could be? I would appreciate any help i can get.

Well i bought myself a Link G4 Xtreme ecu the other day to run the 30/25. It's a wire in job so that should be fun.. I've decided to use a brand new rb25det oil pump with crank collar, rb25det or rb30e water pump, rb25det vrs gasket kit, rb30e or rb26det headgasket, arp fasteners, new tensioners and studs/bolts. does everyone use a sealant with gaskets or just use the gasket alone? New tensioner location above water pump: I want to buy a tap and die set and drill and tap my own thread. best way to do this? how do you drill dead straight? should i use a stud or bolt? oil restrictors; 1.8mm is factory in rb30. I am thinking of using 1.5mm. thoughts? also what additional oil mods (oil drain etc) does my rb25det head need other than the vct mods?? alternator; I have a vl rb30 and rb25 alternator. havent looked at the plug types yet but i'm guessing i'll need or want the 25 alternator? Havent yet decided whether to use rb25det or rb30 balancer. i'm guessing the difference is the different belt used for the rb25 p/steer pump? so would this decision depend on what p/steer pump i choose? Also i want to use new braided water and oil feed hoses instead of the factory hard lines that must be bent. where can i buy the appropriate hose to suit a rb30det and should i wait until i decide on a high or low mount turbo setup? Just found out that I need to use the heater hose attachments off the rb25det on my rb30 block so hopefully that goes ok. does anyone know where to buy these attachments (the pipes) brand new??? what is a fair/ good price for a basic rebuild of a rb25det head? I have been quoted at over $700 for a basic check/rebuild re-using all the old stock parts except valve guides. this includes a hardness test, valve seat tension test, chemically cleaned etc etc. all i really want is a checkover to make sure the heads spot on and then a thorough clean and reassemble. should i just get limited work done to it and then assemble it myself including lapping in the valves? Anything else I can do or anything that i've forgotten?

I notice you have a 25/30 stagea. how did you go about it?

Yeah i have read the pdf and i have also read the whole 300+ page rb30det thread and many others. I basically know what to do but i'd like to know the stuff that most people arent disclosing such as exact gasket specs they have, what brand, did they use standard new head bolts or did they use studs, were all the gaskets bought seperately or as part of a VCT gasket kit. see what i'm getting at. I'm ready to go out and buy everything that i need while the head is in the shop but i want to know what works best and get a decent deal. I also need to know if i should re-use my 2nd hand oil and water pumps or buy brand new oem ones. I want to save money where i can in this way as i would like to be able to purchase the turbo, manifolds, injectors gate, haltech etc sooner rather than later. I could easily waste $1000 + on parts that i already have and may not need so to an extent i need to set myself a budget and would like peoples thoughts on this.

if it makes you feel better pretend the motor is going into a skyline not a commodore. haters.

Hi, need some help. I've been gathering parts over the last year or so to build up new engine for my wagon and I am now in a position where i can start buying the stuff that i need to start putting it together ready to drop into the car. Ideally i'd like it done before this christmas. ok so the aim is to have a very responsive street engine that can also handle occasional abuse at events/track days. but basically it would be daily driven thats the main thing. so not a dog to drive off boost. I'd like to accomplish this on a standard rebuilt cast bottom end and have 230 - 300 rwkw so here's what I have (i'm a bit tired from work so bear with me) The car: 87 executive wagon, 68,000km's, gktech no holes intercooler kit, rebuilt 28 spline 3.45 vlt lsd diff with all new bearings and urethane bushes, bigger sway bars front and rear, full urethane re-bush, single piece tailshaft, mf5 non turbo manual gearbox (upgrading to r33), bosch 984 external pump in place of factory pump, braided clutch, diff and brake lines, vlt 1"master cyl and booster, vt brakes front, std rear, standard exhaust (going 3") etc... and the parts: 1x rebuilt na rb30, possibly decked, 40 or 50 thou over (yet to check and confirm), new cast pistons and cant remember the rest. done about 8 months of driving. 1x (suspected)standard rebuilt na rb30 cast pistons. unknown km's but ran amazing. 1x standard na rb30 in wagon, 68,000, runs well, not rebuilt. 1x standard series 2 rb25det, about 95,000km's (apparently) rb25 harmonic balancer, rb30 harmonic balancer rb25 water pump, rb30 water pump 2nd hand rb25 and rb30 idlers and tensioners rb30e oil pumps on na rb30 engines, rb25 oil pump on rb25, rb30et oil pump. 2x rb25det series 2 VCT heads with standard cams. (will be keeping VCT) Standard rb25det exhaust manifold blasted and painted (would like a better high or low mount item non cast) standard rb25det intake manifold cleaned blasted and powdercoated standard r33 turbo with standard oil and water lines, standard wastegate actuator etc. (will almost definately not end up using as i want larger) rb25det s2 wiring harness minus ecu standard rb25det s2 injectors, fuel rail, coils, afm etc.. So what i basically need help with is selecting all the right parts and upgrades i'll be needing. so fair enough if people think go and buy a brand new water pump etc. i will if need be but i could easily say yeah need a new this, yeah may as well buy that brand new too but i want to use the old parts where i can if its safe to do so.. So if people could please advise on what parts I should re-use and what not to re-use that would be great. I also need some opinions/recommendations for what parts and brands to choose for what im after. and what to use for all the little parts such as vrs gasket kits, seals, head gasket choice and thickness (and compression ratio/quench), head studs or head bolts, sealants and thread lockers, hoses and fittings and any other bits that i have forgotten. also need to know what i should get done to the head when i drop it of at a cylinder head shop for inspection and cleaning and if anyone knows of any good, reasonable places to take it to in brisbane. i'm leaning towards feeding the oil to the vct internally by removing and drilling the plug that goes in near the front intake cam bucket. thanks for any advice p.s this is a not a newby thread it is serious and i need to get this engine together soon.

Bump. also have a r32 gtst dump pipe

why cant you delete your own threads? this shit sold last year... can a MOD please delete this. thanks.

rb30e block sold. also have a rb25det crossover pipe here.

^^ SOLD. please delete.

bump

Got a few skyline parts to get rid of. r33 rb25det engine mounts r33 standard dump pipe (from turbo to cat. inc cat) x2 r32gtst rb20det crossover (intake) pipe, x2 vl rb30e series 2 block, crank, girdle. $70 EOI: rb25det S2 short motor.vgc. 80,xxx km's, no rust in gallerys very clean, motor not blown but would recommend throwing in new bearings and rings since it has been sitting without a head and has had main and big end caps off and back on to check condition at some stage since i've owned it. taking offers until i decide if it's staying. located on the northside of brisbane. Call or text 0433 559 722

due to oil being scavaged from the intake cam buckets has anyone felt the need to run different sized oil restrictors to compensate for the loss or is the loss hardly significant?. Anyhow what size oil restrictors are people using on their 30/25's whether it be internaly or externally fed?

I'll grab it

$50 come get it

this is still here

how much did the plenum/intake, tb and crossover pipe cost all up to get blasted and powder coated?

I would like to know also as i need a new mf5 clutch right now but am buying a rb25 gearbox later this year

offer still stands

SOLD!!!!

engine is now on a stand in garage. have video of it running prior to removal. $270

$100 only if picked up this weekend

Engine is being removed from car tomorrow

RB30e engine. complete with manifolds, injectors etc. $350. always well serviced, can be seen running in car prior to removal for a limited time as i need to remove the motor from the car asap (but will take a video of it running from cold before removal) Pick up from northside of brisbane. 0433 559 722.