HYBR3D
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Posts posted by HYBR3D
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since you guys are talking fuel pumps, whats the limit of power for walbro 255L/h and 555nismo's on pump98?
Pretty sure thay nicked named them Walbro 500, as in 500HP.
Basically they are generally good to 300+ wkw in most applications. Ive seen so many cars putting that power figure out, and more with only a single in tank pump.
Cant comment on Nismos one.
I brought a genuine walbro for 130 they come around cheap sometimes keep an eye out. Dont buy second hand, its not worth it when your chasing power increases.
Heres a mean set-up my mates put in is R32.4, 1200HP SX pump to keep his 420wkw gtr fed
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My Garrett 2871 is pretty loud all round.
If you want noise, HKS t51r KAI, you will have a jet under the hood lol!
I think it's just rb's stock turbos are loud a prob the loudest standard turbo I've ever heard.
The new turbo will be more efficient and the blades will be more aerodynamic etc and it will be doing a better job with less air/friction resistance hense your power increase and less noise.
Wouldn't worry bout it mate.
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Spacers sold! Have remaining items still.
Also have a genuine Mines ECU for R32. Make an offer!!
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Bump grab a bargain!
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25mm NeoTech Wheel Spacers for sale, RRP $130! Barley used, almost new.
Priced to sell $80
King springs for R34 (rear set), Super low height, tyre flush with guard.
Asking $50, Make an offer! Pick-up only for these
Extended Throttle cable assembly for a R32 GTS-t. hook up your front facing plenum with ease.
Asking $30
Pickup is preferred but I can post the spacers and the cable. Located in Melbourne 3146
Send a txt if your interested!
0405426701
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Pirelli PZero Asimmetrico in 265/35/18
Pretty much giving them 10/10 all round apart from price i paid $1500 for a set and that was trade price.
Great grip in wet or dry, when they do let go it's slow/progressive not a sudden snap and you are slidding like some tyres.
Low road noise and give a far better ride than the cheap chinese tyres i had on before.
I have had higger end Dunlop and Falken tyres on my cars at half the price and i dont think i would go to them after the PZero's back unless i was broke.
Man 1500 for PZero's!! My Falken 452's were $1800 a set 19' tho. and ive never gone below the $350 per tyre for F1's, T1r's and RE001's thats the general price for them at least!
Ive heard good things from the PZero Semi's but this would be the first for normal road ones. The Ferrari that parks next to me has them, tbh they dont look like a very grippy tire and quite a messy tread pattern,.
Would be interesting to see a comparison on a WTA car.
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Hey mate, recepts or any proof the fpr's genuine? Sorry man just want to stay away from the fake ones
cheers
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Hey mate any proof of the sard reg being genuine?
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Hey mate, does this come with the mounting bracket? also would it work well in lighter power applications like the smaller one would?
cheers dude
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+1 to Link G4! They are the bees neez!!!
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Spotted 2 R34 GTR's, R33 GTR, a Stagea, and about 5 R32 GTRs among other nissans, all at the same location
I was pretty impressed to say the least... Tho some were not going lol
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Spacers anyone? get that Hellaflush look going on!
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Great timing for this post! I was just thinking of purchasing one but am a little confused..
Are the RB20det, RB25det and RB26dett Fuel regs the same? Would one of those universal adaptors that fit sr20s and rb26 etc etc also fit?
And what pressure would a standard regulator usually be set around?
Im trying to find a suitable Nismo one to fit in place or even just use a Sard one with the adaptor plate. But nothing states that they will fit a RB20 only a 25. Kind of frustrating
Thanks guys
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What about the other hoses around the side of the motor (1inch) that go from the block- oil cooler- around the firewall? I think there is 6 of them.i just blew 2 of them within 2 weeks of each other. Dam expensive at $75 a piece own for 4 inches of rubber.....
Dazza
Just use generic heater hose from repco, that's what I have done. You will find a few can be easily replaced with it. And at $5 a meter it's worth considering.
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That's not how it works hey.
You'll find if you bring the turbo back to an amount of boost where it is at its best efficiency, it will lose very little horsepower, and might even gain some.
Also, a "big" inter-cooler certainly does not counteract the effects of the turbo super heating the air due to inefficiency.
You really need to read up on how they actually work.
There are a lot of people out there that think boost is actually good.... Boost is bad.. Flow is good..
Yea your completley right I won't argue with that. The thing is I don't want to upgrade anything in this setup and I want to achieve the most out I what I have.
The only reason I'm using 1.5 bar is because that's what it's been dynod to already so I'm assuming it's as efficient as it can be there. I'm only re tuning because I have upgrade fuel pump as it was the only thng letting it down last time.
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Should be fine it has a massive blitz intercooler, and the engine is all forged with all supporting mods.
See what happens I think it will be fine. Either way it's going for another tune shortley. Thanks for the help everyone.
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Well played around with the controller this morning and it's now sitting at 1.45 bar stable as. Think the warning needed changing. You guys are right tho it is a little high for the small thing but nuthing it can't handle
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Where do you guys recconeng getting the boost source from? I thing I need to sort my vacuum lines out
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Garrett turbo, apexi fc ecu, has been tuned on the boost by previous owner. I don't remember it doing this in the past tho I don't usually hold boost through out gears as long.
It's hooked up that way because that's how the mechanic did it and how it was when I brought the car.
Shouldn't be any back pressure, it was tuned on setup and it iis a Garrett gt2871
Yea pretty much just flopped once it got to the boost setting.
Where's this hot pipe? Everything's running from the plenum
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Lol Why is everyone telling everyone how much oil to use is it really that hard??? Oil flush, drain it out, when it's hot and letting it drain for a few hours is prefable, then change filter and fill up. Use the minimum you think and keep checking every few mins topping as required.
Go for a drive if you want and when hot check again and top up if necessary.
Really??
These oil topics are all the same
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I thought you needed the controller to daisy link them up. I could be wrong tho
Sard Adjustable Fpr Not Going Higher Than 22Psi
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
Pretty sure I have stock wiring in my 32 to walbro pump and im getting 12.5v to 13v thought it was weird, but sweet as!
Could a Fake fpr create a problem like this?