yamaha227

damn... second hand turbo's are a bit like buying second hand gearboxes... time bombs waiting to go off? so your thinkin it hopefuly isnt turbo related then, do you know how long ago they were rebuilt? would be becomming very expensive turbo's if their in need of more attention!

yeah thats the car... was told when i bought the car that one of the turbo's had been rebuilt not sure if it was both or not?

yeah good point, definately good idea to try all the simple things before going rip tear bust again. any idea on how to pin point if its turbo seal problem? heard HKS 2530's are expensive to repair and not as efficent after the overhauls as no one can match the trims of the original HKS wheels?? dont want to pull them until ive tried everything.

interesting thoughts , one of the first things i tried was mucking around with the venting system. when i got the car (before the rebuild) it had a small catch tank on it. the hose that originaly runs to the pcv valve was removed from the rocker cover end (still connected to the pcv valve) and had some sort of bung installed in it and was just dangling behind the rocker cover. turns out on closer inspection the hose had split half way down anyway so was prob venting well still. the two pipes pointing forward on the rockers were interconnected and one of the other pipes heads off to a catch tank, then another pipe from the catch tank goes back to the rear turbo intake boot. the other pipe on the rocker was just vented to atmosphere with a pipe heading down the fire wall.... dodgy setup! so with the rebuild i decided to get one of those simple catch tanks that sits on top of the rockers, i set it up correctly and had everything connected... so when i was first trying to sort out my probs i thought it was maybe the new catch tank setup. turns out it wasnt cause i tried disconnecting things one at a time. ended up with putting the old catch tank on but on the advice of peter at advan, set it up differantly. he said to block the pcv off completely, block the rear turbo boot inlet line completely, interconnect the two forward rocker pipes and vent the other two to a catch tank with the catch tank venting with a filter on it. Does this sound right or wrong?? Ive read on the total seal ring instructions that because they seal so well that they can cause pcv problems and they reccomend installing a bung with a 1/16 hole drilled in it into the fresh air side of the pcv. interesting?? May be oil/crankcase pressure related as it got worse after changing the oil again at 500k's. new oil = higher pressure and too much pressure is going to put more stress on turbo seals etc, along with too much crankcase pressure. checked the venting tubes at the rocker and no oil mist at all, so im guessing their is no blow by probs. intereting, seems to be plenty of possibilities and hope fuly checking comps tomorrow it will cancel a few out??

definately points to valve stem seals, how can i narrow it down to this before i look at getting them redone?

hit the 500 k mark last night, smoke seamed to be clearing up a bit so thought i was on the right track, so out with the old and in with some GTX 2 25w 50 and new filter. took it for a run round town, stopped at some traffic lights and nice white/grey smoke again on take off after idling for a while... got the shits and took it for a blast down the derrestricted highway for some high speed blasts... seems to be clearing up a bit again after another 100 k's. So is it oil pressure related, new oil combined with N1 high pressure oil pump? getting to much oil through to the bores? any ideas ?? seems to going really strong... will take it out for a couple of hours tomorrow on the highway and see if i have any success...

thats the setting it was on when i bought the car. it was tuned by ben at race pace in melb so im hoping its right. Sydney kid, should be hitting the 500k mark tomorrow so will dump the oil and put some castrol GTX 2 in and see how it goes...

Merli... Power fc is set on, setting #4 80o rb 25 setting, hope this helps. Was under the impression BP coarse 25w 60 is a mineral oil, which is why i put it in. peter at advan who did my sump for me said he wasnt keen on valvoline running in oils, so did the oil change to BP coarse. Got the total seal ring set so im guessing its all rings.

I checked the plug in the forward cylinder this morning and it is showing signs of black soot building up around the circumfrence of the plug and the centre electrode is dark brown. using ngk BKR7E plugs. Had new valve stem seals put in with the rebuild so maybe the engine shop may have got a couple wrong when putting them in... he is pretty switched on, but you never know? will try to get a comp check and leak down check done soon but will try to put a few more k's on it first. engine is running strong and not missing or rattling, had crank, rods pistons and clutch all balanced, bit od a mystery??

Merli... will let you know tonight what the setting is on my power fc for mines A/F meters. Gtr ken... my turbo's were running fine before the rebuild so was tending to think it may not be them... they were sitting around for about 4 weeks, not sure if this would cause any problems? thought if the turbo seals were gone it would blow smoke all the time, under decent boost and acceleration it only blows a tiny bit of black smoke, which it did before the rebuild, it is running a tad rich under decent boost and rpm im guessing to suppress detonation

thanks for the replys, sydney kid... used valvoline sae 30 running in oil for the first 50k's until i heard it was not a good idea then changed to BP coarse 25w 60 mineral oil. what oil would you reccomend? have you had any experience with using total seal gapless rings and running in procedures?

Hoping someone can give me some advice on what maybe causing my GTR to blow smoke after a full rebuild. Its done about 300km's since rebuild, so i might be jumping to conclusions but it seems to be a fair bit. Hear's what i had done, bore and hone to suit 20' over JE pistons, total seal ring set, forged Argo rods, new standard nissan crank and bearings throughout. Head has been rebuilt with new valves Todda bronze valve guides and new seats cut. Also had my sump modified with a Trust sump extension kit and a N1 oil pump. had all this work done by a engine shop up here and put the rest of the gear back on myself. Built the engine keeping in mind i wanted it to be able to make about 400kw at the wheels in the future. I have HKS 2530 turbo's on now with ces racing dump pipes and apexi exhaust, plus upgrade injectors, fuel pump and Apexi power fc, mines airflow meters and huge intercooler and a HKS remote oil filter/cooler kit to help keep things under control. Bit of a run down on what ive done, hope this will help in sorting my problem out. It seems to blow nice thick white smoke after it has been idling at the traffic lights when i take off and after i have been decelerating into corners and then accelarating out. but if i cruise at say 110 on the highway for a little while then change down and go round some tighter corners and accelerate and take it to 5000 with boost it doesnt blow any smoke at all. The car was off the road for about 6 weeks with no battery sometimes, is there a chance the power fc needs retuning? oil catch can doesnt seem to be getting any oil mist in it, i have the pvc valve blocked off and the line into the rear turbo intake boot is also blocked of, would this effect my crankcase venting at all, and having total seal rings would this add to the problem? Before i had the engine rebuilt it was running fine, no smoke i had the HKS turbo's on it then to so it makes me think that i cant be the turbo's. or is there a chance that because they have been sitting for 6 weeks the seals me have dried up or something happened? The engine was tuned with all the above mods down south in melb except for the pistons, rings and rods etc. i was hoping because i didnt change anything that would effect the mean effective pressure of the engine eg cams, boost level, CR etc that i would be fine with the existing tune on the power fc before my rebuild. Im going to try and put as many k's on it over the next few days and load the thing up hills etc to see if it comes good, and will also keep an eye on oil consumption/oil level increse aswell. Have spent big bucks on this engine and hope the engine shop did the right job with bore and hone. hopefuly somone has some good news for me on what to try, Thanks

Have these bits to get rid of of my R32 GTR, Standard crank shaft $250 (sold) standard rods + pistons $350 Excedy organic H/duty clutch $300 (good cond, about 25% worn, push type) Trust pod filters $150 (sold) Genuine Nissan head gasket $60 (brand new) Genuine Nissan timing belt $80 (brand new) Asorted inlet and exhaust valves $20 each Standard rear turbo dump pipes $150 All parts are in good cond

Have these parts for sale, if anyone is interested pm me.. Set of STD RB26 rods $500 Set of STD pistons $250 STD crank(needs thrust face grind) $300 STD oil pump $150 asorted valves $20 each Excedy h'duty organic clutch kit $500 (push type only 25% wear) HKS pod set $150 Nissan head gasket (brand new) $ 70 STD turbo dump pipes $200

Is this still happening at all, am very keen for a fibreglass lip for a R32 GTR, unpainted, 1991 model.

so do you still have the clutch???

will give you $1800 for the os ginken triple plate if you still have it?? pm me if you are interested

Looking for a front lower spoiler lip (standard type) preferably in fibreglass in good condition...

do you have the water and oil feed pipes that run from the bottom of the left hand side of block to the bottom of the turbo's??

Had a good search around on this and didnt find any definate answers on weather a RB30 water pump would fit my RB26DETT, so i ended up after being forced to as the N1 water pump nismo sent me leaked when i fired the car up after putting it all back together. being the weekend i really wanted my car going and was no way i was going to get another one from anywhere else in aus so i went down to my local parts place and picked one up to suit the RB30.... for $65 dollars, as compared to $150. it fitted straight up with no probs and works a treat. So after adding an extra day to a simple water pump and timing belt change i found out the hard way that not always top shelf and top priced parts is the garunteed and best way to go...

Anyone know where i can get a cheap new or secondhand Apexi power fc hand controller from?

Have any dyno figures? when you say nismo turbo are you still running twin setup? pm me thanks

Am interested if you can pm some more details about where its going to be situated, complianced? any more pics? pm me

trying to find an r32 gtr in good clean condition, preferably in adelaide or melbourne to buy. anyone with some info please reply

is this car still for sale, im looking for an r32 gtr at a reasonable price in adelaide, but may be willing to travel for the right car??