superspit
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Posts posted by superspit
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Hi mate, check it on ebay, I bought one there, very nice.
Choose one made by Nissan OEM. check it out!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-CLEAR-C...s#ht_542wt_1098
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-Newer-v...s#ht_1262wt_873
wow...they're farkin nice looking lenses!...I really dig the raised section too....thanx for the info! (at least I know what's out there).
Shame they're in the states.
I hope to find a set more local though.....
Sincere thanx for your time W35!
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Hey people.....any of you guys purchased and installed these, the front bumper 'clear type' indicator lamps?
The orange ones are starting to really get on my nerves for some reason!.....lol.
If you know of a link or store, please point me to it?
Cheers,
Spit.
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- Nope didn't fix it, going to try PCV and inspect throttle body next...
Got mine fixed a few weeks back, during a major service.....(46000 km)
Throttle body had to be removed and cleaned, (it was filthy) some sort of callibration of the throttle had to take place....now all ok. (idles nice and won't stall on warm start!)
I try really hard now not to let the battery go flat!!...(could be just coincidental, but I ain't taking any risks).
Oh, as for PCV valve?,,,,,I couldn't find mine!!!....(nor could the mechanic!)...anyways, car is great now.
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Well mate this might come as a surprise but i actually did not know that its a defect since its the first modified car that i have ever purchased.. and none of my mates have cars with front mount intercoolers so had no idea about the hole cutting in the battery tray..
Even if i have to fix it, does anyone know of any engineers around the South Eastern suburbs where i can go to get this done?
Cheers..
Hi,
I really do feel your pain my friend.
Call Tony at 'TGS Muscle Cars', in Cochranes Rd, Moorabbin.
He has (had) access to a great engineer who helped my brother and I out with this same issue...a little over a year ago.
I hope this helps....you can only find out!
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its not abnormal
it happens to alot of peoples cars
and yes it only happens on hot starts. cold starts are fine.
dont worry about it, will go away.
EXACT SAME issue here....discon batt (as not using car for a while and GPS sucks power, flattens battery when parked).
PROBLEM IS that that was 3 weeks ago...after some driving, hot starts STILL require acc pedal depress to keep idling, then all's fine.
BUMMMMMMMER!
I need to find the PCV on this car!...anyone got a pic with an arrow pointing to it?...lol.
OR...bring up the idle (how to do how to do?) by 150 rpm and that seems to solve it (simulated by slight pedal depress mimicking 150 rpm increase seems to work).
Cheers.
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hi im wanting to put a gen4 or shall i say a ls2 6litre with a 6 speed and heavey dutey racing clutch .and bolt on a
yada yada...
I say let him do it, let's even assist him with a smile, in the great way us SkLiNer's often do.......
and let Darwin's Theory do the rest.
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I give the 'nod,....just incase they're not the 'waving' type......also requires less commitment.
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yeah...safety is important, ofcourse.
I tried the '10 second VDC Button hold', and yes, VDC appeared to de-act, as per previous posts. (ie. no dash-light, no further button control).
But upon undertaking some safe 'spirited' take offs, the car's TCS insisted I was doing the wrong thing, forcing my face into the steering wheel.......
Upon re-starting/re-setting the car at the next stop, I manually disengaged VDC (Pushed button-Dash light on), and the TCS appeared to go away, thankfully.
In my 24 years of driving all sorts of buckets, I've never owned such a pretentious system of VDC, mainly it's TCS component.
It may well be one of the factors that will make me sell this car, and get into a <>1970 Mach 1 Stang.
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VDC can control braking force on all four wheels, as well as overriding your throttle pedal and closing the butterfly (which is the TCS part).
This makes sense...It's this 'closing down' of the induction system that is the part that I'd like shut-down for my own personal safety reasons, as explained prior.
So VDC encompasses all the various safety 'sub-systems' in this car (EBD, ABS, TCS)? and is controlled by the one button labelled VDC?
If so, then the TCS would be the part I'd like turned off, and only TCS.....easier said than done?
I have no issue with the EBD/ABS systems....Infact, the EBD system is quite impressive on this car..... (under test conditions anyway).
Gettin' down to brass tacks here I feel.
Cheers.
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With VDC one press of the button is only semi off, with the light coming up on the dash. Having VDC totially shut down is different again. Hold the button down for a few secs and it is off off, the light on the dash will also go out. You cannot push the button to reactivate it. You need to turn the car off and on again for VDC to again be active.
woah!...Can't wait to get home and try this out!!!..(I'm driving the Festiva today)..Hope it works!!!....Will let you know later in the day how I went. (into a tree...lol!)
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Cheers, pretty sure i read that as well before i actually bought my V.
Almost certain no hicas.
On another note, i wouldn't be disabling VDC for insurance purposes etc.
If you really wanna run around without vdc to test it out, simply unplug the abs power plug. You will lose vdc, abs, ebd and eba however. Do at your own risk.
please do read my points relating to this.....I wish to have Nissan remove my VDC only, without affecting EBD/ABS!
Pulling a 'fuse' (as suggested by someone) is not an option, as it can 'cross-disable' other critical functions.
The best tests that I've made (other than historical with other cars without VDC) is the fact that I'm enjoying driving this car when I remember to shut down VDC....it's also far safer, as I'm not stuck out in the middle of an intersection with a car that's 'bogged down' then allows power to come in when I've almost beed T-Boned.
Please note, again, that all the close calls I've seemed to have had (in this of car) have been ones where I've been left stranded in a 'pull out' maneuver..
As for my insurance company?......they don't even know wtf VDC is....
I think I'll leave this post at that, I've got the info I need with regards to tyres at the front of my car, the rest has been fun!
245's at the front it is!!.....Should look a lot nicer.
Cheers guys!
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If you press the button and you got the VDC warning on your dash , that means VDC if off, not on.
When VDC is on you don't see any warning on the dash.
yes, you are quite correct.
I want to see that light on....permanently.
In other cars I've owned/driven, (and they have generally been faster cars than my V), they've never had provision for VDC.
But I've have never 'spun them around'.....guess I must suck at driving.......
Anyway, horses for courses I guess!..
Cheers.
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woah!....guys....if even you are only partially correct, this is amazing!
All that?....from stepping upto 245 at the front?.....oh my.
Good thing I'm not into pushin' it too hard!
Seriously, so all I have to worry about is potential changes in 'upper envelope dynamics'?......I don't go there anyways,
nowadays.
I'm thinking that as long as there's no rubbing, scraping or the like, (which you guys haven't mentioned) I should be fine.....
oh, I never drive with VDC on, that, in my humble opinion, is only good for turning this car into a deathtrap.
I've had more issues with VDC ON than I've ever had in my history of driving ANY CAR....and my VDC checks out perfectly, according to Nissan, and their diagnostics.....I'm organising VDC to be de-activated from my car on it's next service, I won't be putting up with it any longer (I sometimes forget to hit the switch, then get caught out)......
Passive EBD is brilliant in this car though....go figure! I've been told I can have this done (VDC bypass) without affecting EBD or any other system within the car....we'll see.
Thankyou so much guys for your feedback, I really appreciate it!...Oh HI to LUKEB.
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245/45 tires on an 8" rim is OK. I'm no expert but I believe having wider rears than fronts has something to do with improving handling charateristics of a vehicle. If I had 8" rims all around, I would probably go 235s on all rather than 245s. but thats just me. Never had a 245 on an 8" but I would assume there would be a bit more tire bulge compared to a 225 or 235.
I'm pretty sure now that all my rims (standard V35 18") are all 8"W.
I also believe (?) these cars come from the factory with 245's on those rears, and they look perfect..no bulging as such....it's just the fronts that look a tad gay at the moment.....hence my question on scaling up to 245 on the fronts (symmetry).....are there technical issues and such with this.(?)
Cheers.
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Hey Guys,
as per the title....any technical issues that I haven't bothered to search for?
I'm planning on putting 245/45 rubber (as per currently on the rear) to the fronts.
What is the reasoning behind utilising smaller rubber at the fronts, is it one of handling?
I believe the rim widths are the same, front and rear. (?)...are these 8"?
I have the standard 7 spoke 18" 'track' wheels.....obviously on my 2003 V35 6M.
Thankyou.
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GREAT THREAD YOU GUYS.....ONE OF THE BEST ON V35'S TO DATE!!!!
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I'm very interested in this unit...and if it really is an 'easy install'.
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yeh mine also u have to push down to engage reverse
yes, me too, nowadays.
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not anymore!!!
hehehehe....cheeky bugger!...lol!
It now has the 'notched' safety on reverse.
New box, flywheel and clutch (and mother) are doing well.
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Has anyone notice when first starting up, most times for me, and when the initial rev occurs a rattle type sound?? (hope that is a good description!)
Also as mosoto stated about when in idle there is a slight rattling occuring, you can here this on the outside on the drivers side?? (sounds like a flywheel type sound I suppose)
First start up?..yes..same here...no issue with that, as it happens so rarely, and certainly doesn't mean impending doom. (I've also heard it on other V35's)....oh, I think it's more of a bumpety bump, minus the lower frequencies.
That farking 'idle' rattle/ticking??....I got a new gearbox..(for lots of other reasons).....all good now....I believe that particular noise has to do more with the crazy/ over engineered flywheel the 35's have......inspect/look at a stock one if you ever get the chance....way too much going on with that design.!!
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thanks for the advice
After some experience with batts......I know this much...STAY AWAY FROM CALCIUM EXPANDED type cells!....They are ridiculous!
Stick with the standard old-tech Lead Plate batts...(Century Lead still kicks ass!)..and get the biggest battery capacity you can fit into your car!
Keep in mind the size of the posts (you may need small Jap terminals, positive post to the right, very important!)
Hope that helps....Calcium can be a shit of a thing to keep charged, espesh trying to keep that magic eye (if applicable) in the green!
Just my 2 cents guys.....do what works for you!
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Must have a draw somewhere... broken relay?
If you have 14v when car is running then all should be good.
Do you ever see the battery light on the dash?
Just make sure that it doesn't drop every so often... mine when down to 1 volt for a second or so, then it did it for longer and longer over a few months.
Had to change Regulator/Rectifer.
So you leave GPS on?
hey. thanx 4 the response.
No batt light on dash, ever.
I running one of those finnicky Calcium Plate Batts at the moment....I'm pulling it out and putting the old style back int there, today.
But that won't solve the current leak issue.....so...I'll be disconnecting the batt when the car is not in use, until I get back to Tower Audio, and see what they have to say.
I really hope it's not the Rec/Diode pack...it's under warranty, but the hassle is a hassle!
Do you / anyone here know the approx C draw on a dodgey alt pack..just ball park....would it be around 300mA, or a lot less/more?
Yes, my GPS is part of the entertainment system, hardwired into the car's elec's like any other radio.....but it only consumes enough power to keep the 'tracking' data/ sat-signal lock refreshed....ummm....apparently.
Cheers people and to you ST.
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Hi people....while we're on alt's, may I ask the following....
Has anyone had issue (V35) with back-leak of voltage with their alt?
I've gone through 2 batteries now, and the car won't hold a charge for more than 2 days...old Batt wouldn't come back to life, my new one is dying every other day.
I placed a multi-meter in series (current test mode) to the battery, and found it was drawing well over 300mA, with everything off, (including the boot light..lol!).
I know my on board GPS draws a little current, but very little, as I tested it.
I've had this issue since I've been off work (hospital, and resting up, hence little driving), and since I had my alarm/immob installed...it could well be that!....but until I go back to the installer I'll just be looking for your thoughts on V35 alt reliability or any issues you may have heard with busted diodes in the alt rectifier pack, with this model specifically?
Charge is good, with over 14V being supplied to the batt on idle.....batt recharges very well and very quickly.....after I jump start her!..LOL!
I thankyou for any thoughts you may have.
Unplugged Battery, Car Now Stalls On Startup
in VQ Series - V35, V36 & Infiniti
Posted
Perfect...that's exactly what my mechanic did during a 'major service' to solve the issue of 'stall when warm start-up'.....there was much carbon type crap to be found!
Clean that induction system!...it's vital. (oh, and swing over to using BP Ultimate, if you can).
My battery has been allowed to go flat many times since repairs (I don't drive the Line very much), and the idle is now the least of her problems!!..lol.