madmoomoo

Hey there folks, I'm just wondering if i can get some advice on what might be going on with my car (R33). About every third time that I start the car, there is a bit of a sqealing noise when the engine starts. Is this a normal thing? It is happening a bit more regularly than it used to. My first thoughts were perhaps a belt, or just the fact that the engine wasn't yet lubricated... Would one of these be correct? If not, what else should I try? (93 R33 gtst, old girl done about 190,000, belts everything done when I bought it about 30k ago) Cheers

I think the boss kit and adaptor might be the same thing. I don't really know coz my steering wheel is stock. Maybe give autobarn a call, coz if you needed anything else they'd know coz they sell the steering wheels etc. If the wiring is all cut up, then that's obviously going to stop it from working. If you get someone to fix the wiring, I'm sure they'd know if you need anything else to get it working properly. cheers!

If you have your steering changed over to an aftermarket one, don't you need to have some sort of boss kit or something, so it doesn't mess up your airbags and other stuff? I know you can get adaptors for aftermarket steering wheels... Maybe you just need one of them installed.

Maybe we should organise a cruise, where we get our parents cars, rice em up cardboard styles and hit the streets. hehe

I have to agree with the wing thing. I've got the opposite problem - a little round series I wing. Maybe we can get our wings to mate and have mid-sized ones? what you should do is get FMIC, then go to jaycar and spend $140 on electronic boost controller (I just did, it rocks), enjoy your evening building the kits, then spend the next morning enjoying a very quick car. Spend the change on strippers or something productive. your rims are fine. Front bar is better than my stock one. Good luck with it though.

Hey Boostn247, one thing you might want to do is either go to a decent book shop, or even your local library and look up some books. I went down to my local library and have borrowed an informative book on painting etc. I was quite suprised they even had it there. Bonus! In regards to one of your questions, you asked about driving around with the primer on the car (after the bog filler). From this book I've got, it says that primers generally aren't water proof, and if you go driving around, it's bound to cause problems later on. However, they say that there are two-part epoxy primers that should be used if you're working on the car outside or are going to wait a while before getting it painted. Hopefully this may be of some use to you. Good luck with the prep work. Let us know how it all goes, I'd be keen to hear your experiences. Cheers.

for some reason it makes me want to drink beer! enjoy.

All those people wanting both the latest in bodykit styling and a giggle, check out http://home.cwru.edu/~jsh28/drew/bodykit.html for some inspiration!!

Next question: FUEL INJECTORS... 1) Do these need to be changed over at any stage, or can they just be cleaned? (I found this handy thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...clean+injectors) 2) I see ppl asking where to get them done, so do I need to take them in to a specialist to get them done, or could i use contact cleaner or something of the sort. 3) If I am changing them myself, what else do I need to get/replace while i'm at it (do I need to get a "rebuild kit" as suggested in the other thread) 4) If i have to get them cleaned by someone, any recommendattions for melb - pref not too far from Carlton/Fitzroy? 5) Will this help solve my terrible fuel-consumption problem? (I've so far changed spark plugs, fuel filter and O2 sensor, but am still getting sub 300km per tank) Hopefully my latest bunch of questions can be answered by you intellegent lot! = ) Cheers!

Yep, very useful. Just what I needed. Combined with the pics from Ant, I'm all ready to go. I'll have to wait a bit before I pull things apart though, coz I have to investigate LED setup, and also get some paint, coz me going to paint console while I'm at it. That stupid stuff Nissan put on is peeling off everywhere. Not the greatest look. Thanks!

Ah, Thanks heaps for the pics Ant. It'll be very useful. I'll do some dismantling in the next few days. I'll write up any progress I make. Cheers!

I actually have no idea what they do for electrical stuff. If it's just a horn playing up, i'd be inclined to get the multimeter out and screw drivers and start pulling things apart. It's amazing how much you learn by braking things then TRYING to repair them! hahaha Did you check the fuse?? hehe. that'd suck if you took it in and it was just a fuse or something...

Any chance you're going to find another load of coolers?? If so could you let me know. I'd be very keen. cheers!

You could try Ice Performance, they're at 7 Dissik st, Cheltenham 9512 7591 I took the skyline in a couple of times for servicing. They've always got skylines and supras, rex's etc in there. Nice lot too. Hope it helps.

Ah, fantastic. So they hopefully shouldn't be too nasty to get to. That's fine with the resistors, I just bought a pack of about a million yesterday. Any idea how many bulbs there are, and how much space I've got to play with? Chances are I'll need to get a few LEDs in there to have it bright enough, because they're kinda directional... Thanks for that Ant. Cheers.

Actually, I have found this great guide by pushead, at http://users.tpg.com.au/adsldg7j/Console/console.htm but does anyone know about the lights inside?

Greetings folks, Just wondering if anyone out there has pulled out their dash (R33) and knows about the globes for the dials. It appears that the dial faces are backlit or side lit, and I'm wanting to know if I can get in there and put in some bright LEDs, or maybe even multicolour LEDs, so I can change colours in my stock dash, without having to go and buy on of those $300 EL dial things... Hopefully someone out there will know. If i can manage to do it, I'd be happy to write up a how to. Cheers!

Ah, yes, i think I'll go plumb that spare vent back into that spare hose. kinda makes sense to not lose even a small amount of air. The R33 has a brass T piece stock as well, but i had already bought another one, so i just used it anyway. I was doing a bit of adjusting to the maps on the way home last night, but I'll have more of a play today and hopefully have something solid to write up. Actually, in the instructions i remember reading that you have to have the hand controller plugged in before it fires up, or you get a blank screen with a row of black squares on the top line... well it does, but last night it was also going like that by itself when it's already plugged and screwed in. Sometimes it would come back to normal after a while too! Have you found that same thing at all? I didn't know if i had a dodgy connection somewhere, so i pulled the hand controller apart and resoldered a couple of suspect joints. I had forgotten about the trimming for the injector pulse signal. I'll reread that section before i head out today. Thanks for all that info on the power FC too by the way. cheers!

Sydneykid, With my setup, i didn't even think of using the standard restrictor - i bought a brass T-piece and soldered. At the moment it's venting to atmosphere, and I plugged the old vacuum hose up with a screw for now. I was thinking of venting back to the turbo - is it really going to make a difference to anything? As for my maps, do you mean the settings for each value? I haven't been on a dyno at all, so i have no power maps or anything like that. Even though there are up tp 64 programmable points, I found that I only managed to register 30 something, then it would go blank for a bit. I'll go out to the car and write out all the values a bit later and put them up here. It's only a preliminary setting, as I haven't been out for extensive drives to fine tune, but the are staying pretty damn stable at the boost settings (about 7 for low and 10 for high map). Also, I don't really know much about ignition timing and tuning, so it's all on the todo list. I'll try and so some research and find if there are other options that might overcome timing issues. Actually, are there any books that anyone recommend especially for tuning/engine management/efi etc?

Oh yeah, El Bee, I read your post about the installing of the boost control kit, and kept that in mind when putting mine together. When it was all plugged in, the screen was just green, so i unscrewed everything and looked at the wiring overlays, soldering etc. In the end, I realised that I hadn't turned the contrast up on the controller. It was all fine! If anyone else is building the hand controller, remember to turn the contrast trimpot all the way up (i think clockwise..??) unlike me, the ditz. hmm.. maybe the soldering fumes have made me dumb.

Sydneykid, I've been following your progress with great interest, as it's exactly what I'm in the process of doing (hooked up IEBC today, it's sooo good. Oh, for anyone else out there doing this, I used a vent size of about 1mm to keep my low boost setting around stock - r33 gtst. I had to resolder and drill 3 times, in the end using soldering iron to make hole smaller than smallest drill bit size). Anyway, I am next going to buy and install the DFA. You have mentioned a couple of times having trouble with the timing of the ignition from the ecu. Have you looked at the programmable ignition kit at jaycar? Because my knowledge here is pretty basic, and i'm doing all this to learn, would the ignition kit be a solution, seeing that I'll come up with the same problem with timing? If that would solve the problem, is there going to be much difference in the jaycar kits (IEBC, DFA and prog ignition kit) and an aftermarket ecu/boost setup? Cheers.

hmm, I was thinking of doing that with the plugs. What happened in the end was this: the mechanic was about 5 mins away, and on the way back, because i had removed the heat shield from turbo for access, the cable had touched it, and had stuck to the turbo!!! That sucked. I only found out after i soldered the other side up. Anyway, next time around I'll change the whole plug. So now, instead of the smell of petrol rich exhaust, I have the smell of melting plastic! O2 sensor was the ford EL one, $82 from repco. There was also the universal one, which was bout $130. The lass there said there was something different about them. Can't remember what. I think my brain was just thinking "50 bucks difference? hmm... maybe not" Yep, cut the plug straight off. I think there were 2 black wires and one blue one. I was thinking maybe i should try and find the other side of a ford plug, so next time I change it, I just plug new one in...?? Anyway, I won't have to worry about that for a while. BTW, can anyone recommend good books to learn about tuning?? I'm wondering if i should get "Forced induction performance tuning" and/or "four-strok performance tuning" - both by A. Graham Bell. I'd really like to learn a whole lot more about tuning, and I can handle details and technical data. Cheers!

Hey benl1981, The jaycar kit will give you much more control over the boost curve, unlike the bleed valves, which I believe can give you funny spikes and an uneven curve. With the hand controller, yes you need it to set up the curves, but once set, it can be removed. There is a switch on the boost controller itself (which I am going to mount on the dash somewhere) that switches between high/low maps. You can leave the controller connected though, if you want to have a look at what's happening. I've built the kits and they're dead easy. I'm installing it all tomorrow. I can truly say it's not that hard at all, and you get to learn lots in the process. cheers.

hmm, don't know if I'd go and by a disc machiner thingy... I spent almost 3 hours trying to get the stupid O2 sensor off today, sprayed a pile of anti rust stuff on it and tried everything from every angle. Nothing budged! My solution: I called up local mechanic, drove down and paid him 10 bucks for his troubles. It took him a grand 10 seconds! Not a bad 10 seconds work! Anyway, he had the right tool for it, so if anyone is going to change their O2 sensor, I highly recommend going and finding the right tool, because you basically can't get the right leverage with a spanner or shifter. Here's what it looked like: It's a bit like a long socket, like what you'd use one deeply recessed wheel nuts, and it has a gap along the side, so you can get over the wiring. It just goes onto the ratchet and takes a few seconds. It would be 22mm from memory. As written up a couple of places throughout the threads, the wires from the nissan sensor won't really take up solder, so you need to pull the pins out from the back. I couldn't even pry the metal clasp thing open to get old wire out, so i cut it short, then wound new wire around and soldered on. Finally it works!

Hey folks, I just have to say that for anyone out there wanting to learn about and improve their cars, the jaycar book is a very valuable read. It's only 20 bucks and is very handy learning tool. I bought to book along with the boost kit/hand controller. They were the second and third kits I have built (the first one was the air mixture kit the day before). So, If a non-engineer like me can solder those things up, anyone can. I'm yet to hook it all up (hopefully tomorrow), but I have to say, I've learned a hell of a lot from them, and it also gives you lots of ideas for other things you can do to your car too. Sydneykid, I have to say that you're doing a fantastic job with the thread, and you're extremely courteous and give hugely detailed to resposes to any questions posed to you. Good on you. This thread is going to be a valuable referrence for me (I'm going the same path, going to puchase fuel adjuster next...) Cheers!