madmoomoo

R33 gtst (93) alarm is by Brant. I have found a wire coming off the coil pack wiring and I don't know what I'm supposed to do with it. It's a small black wire (4 inches or so long) with a metal "O" on the end. I would think that it is supposed to be grounded, but I"m not sure. I don't remember what I did with it last time - I presume i ignored it, but maybe it was touching the metal somewhere so was ok.?? The wire comes off just before the first plug (near cyllinder 1?) and I'm a bit stuck with it. When I had the car running before, this wire was sticking out the back and some sparks came out somewhere. so i very quickly turned the engine off! if anyone knows what I'm supposed to be doing with this wire, I could really use some help. thanks.

Hey folks, Very quickly - I changed spark plugs on the 33, and the wiring going to the collpacks has one more small black wire with a metal "O" on the end (the type that would normally be grounded to something). This wire is coming of the main strand of wiring, before cylinder 1. The black wire is about 3 inches or so long. Should this be grounded? Or do I ignore this wire or ??? Please help, I really need to use car quicklly.... spanks.

Hi peoples, Has anyone got any ideas about what could be going on with my alarm - The other day, I changed my spark plugs and pretty much ran out of time, so I left the car in the drive. Then the next day, when I went to drive it, the car started ok, then I noticed a funny clicking thing that sounded a bit like a relay clicking over continuously. I sourced the noise to the alarm box (felt the vibrations). I had a look while the car was running, and my first thought was that the sensor that detects movement was funny, because when the ticking was happening, the red LED on the sensor was flashing in sync. I unscrewed the sensor from to see if there was a dial for sensitivity, but there wasn't. (I thought the sensitivity was right up and the vibrations from the car was triggering it). Anyway, After about a minute of the engine running and the stupid clicking, the alarm triggers (while the engine is on!!!) and cuts the ignition!! This happened a few times and I'm bloody stumped as to what could be the cause! Obviously I have to get it sorted asap, so if anyone has ANY ideas it would be muchly appreciated! Thanks in advance, I hope!

Thanks for that. when i changed my spark plugs today I found that bth sides of the hose had split! There was a bit of oil to clean up, so off to autobarn to get new hoses tomorrow. I'm going to replace everything I can. Once I have a bit of spare cash I might look at a catch can. cheers

Hey skyliners, I have a small amount of oil that has come out of the top of the engine where the kinda square U-shaped hose goes from one side of engine to the other. Is this really bad? When looking at engine from front, the right side is a bit dirty, and I remember trying to clean it before, so it's coming out still... Is this a part that should be changed? I guess being a rubber part on an old girl ( '93 R33 @200k) it might be time for a change soon..?! Should I go down to autobarn and get a new one? and are there other ones I should change? thanks..

Maybe give Ice Performance a try if you're after somewhere that does japanese imports. They're in cheltenham, which is a bit of a drive for us western suburbs folks, but they're good from my experience. They had about 6 skylines and a nasty orange supra there last time I went, so they appear to know what they're doing... just my 2c. oh, I can't remember the address, but it's just near southland. their number is 95127591... If anyone has suggestions for good workshops west of town I'd be keen to hear suggestions...

Try attempting to put your window up/down with your head close to the inside of the door. If you can hear a click sort of noise near your right elbow when you press the button, the button is ok. I have this problem with my series 1, I can sometimes get my window to go up or down, but when it doesn't, i can still hear a little click (the power works). My problem is that the contacts in the motor are a bit funny. I've pulled the door apart and looked at the motor and it's ok, but doesn't work when the axle is pushed in. So in other words, Clicking noise = motor problem no clicking = probably switches are buggered. hope this helps.

I was also wondering the same thing, but mine is more for maintainance purposes. I think you're right with the 5 nuts. I did the same. I think the only thing holding the light assembly in place now is the gooey black stuff. This is a silicone based sealer (I just bought some to seal leak at top of light). I'm not too sure as to how you go about it, but I think that's all that is now holding it in. good luck with it. When you do manage it, let us know what you did... cheers.

There are certainly some very good suggestions here to try - I just have a question for the not-so-audio-genius-people like me: For the people suggesting to check the fuses on the GROUND wires and also the "fuseable link" on the rca outs, are these like your normal inline fuse that would be on the wire going from the head unit to the ground or rca out, or is it on the head unit itself or somewhere else?? Last I remember, There were no fuses in the wiring behind the head unit, except for the +12v one. The ground wire went straight from head unit to the chasis and the rca cables had no visible fuse in them... Thanks for the great ideas. (Still have the damn noise - tried head unit ground points. I guess next would be fuses as suggested, or new rca cables...) cheers!

I had my clutch changed to an exedy heave duty clutch about a year ago, and pretty much since then it's made a funny squeeking noise when disengaged (pedal not pressed). It is a bit intermittent, but is usually there. It sounds like a cricket and if I press lightly on the clutch pedal it gets louder and softer, so i can actually emulate cricket noises if I like. Does anyone have this problem? i think i remember asking someone this before, and the reply was that this sometimes happens with the heavy duty ones. (Is this something to do with the pressure plate? I remember reading everyone saying the throwout bearing is the suspect one, but mine appears to be happening under diff circumstances..) I don't think it's dangerous or anything, but it kinda defeats the purpose of looking good in a nice car, that sounds like cricket trying to mate!

I thought that you could just wire in a relay to power your turbo timer when the alarm cut it. I'm pretty sure it can be done, regardless of alarm brand/type because once the alarm cuts the power to ignition, the relay switches straight to the car battery. I can't quite remember which way it is wired, but if you go to jaycar or dicksmith and get a 30A relay (horn one) (- I'm pretty sure it's the right one), maybe ask someone there how to wire it - it's relatively simple. Hope it works for you!

I've got both amps earthed to the same point, but I bought the car with the head unit already installed. Appears as though they've done a decent job, but I'll get in and have a look at the gounding for it. Thanks. Hope that fixes it...

Oh ok. I'm presuming that the bubblegum stuff is the same as the black stuff inside the door frames holding the plastic sheet in place... Any idea where i can get hold of this stuff or what it is? Actually, I've got another part to the question. The back of the light assembly, where the lights are plugged in, I've also got that black gooey stuff around the edge of the plastic assembly. Is there supposed to be something attatched to this stuff and covering the wiring? I can't figure this one out...

Hey Rob, The timer should be easy to do. Buy the kit from Jaycar, because they import these along with heaps of other cool car kits. They've got a booklet for $20 which gives info and build/install instructions which is a very informative read anyway. From memory the intelligent turbo timer was about $40 last time i saw. If you do go to Jaycar, check out the other kits if you want to get into building stuff. You don't really need experience. I bought an electronic boost controller which is absolutely kickass. I think it cost me $130 or so for the boost controller and the hand control unit. This was one of the first things I ever soldered. Works wonders! Way better than a pneumatic one for the same price! Good luck with it!

I've read the same thing. I also have discovered condensation prob in left headlight. Apparently you put it in the oven for 10-15 min to soften glue. You've got 10 mins or so working time before glue sets again, which should be enough time. From what I've found, all headlights are sealed the same way. I've been doing some reasearch for the same reason.... Good luck with it.

Yikes! Wouldn't have thought of that. Thanks. I got the guys at autobarn to find the spark plugs for me so hopefully they looked it up right. I'll have a bit of a look. Anybody got any other suggestions?

Hey lads and lassies, I'm constantly getting moisture in the reverse/indicator parts (clear bit) of my tail lights (both sides). I've had a quick look, and there seems to be a gap on top of my tail light assembly between this and the metal. From what I can gather, the water that comes down the edges of the boot then goes into my tail light assembly. I would have presumed that the water would be guided OVER the tail lights to the exterior of the car but this isn't the case on my car. Can anyone with an R33 pls help me out; do you have some sort of rubber seal between light assembly and metal part of car to which it is screwed? Or what is the flow of this water supposed to be? Aside from getting moisture in the lights, I find that inside my boot is also getting wet, just next to the lights. I'm presuming the trickling water then splashes out into my boot! Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!

Hey folks, I've got this stupid noise coming through my audio system and it's making me go bananas. I'm presuming it's alternator noise because it correspondes with RPM. I've got an R33 series one with 2 amps in the back. I've put one of those noise suppresor things in, I've currently got the back seats out for other purposes, so I can see that the rca cables are laid down the left side of the car and under the passenger seats - so as far as I can see they are far as possible away from any power cables. Are there any things I could try that I've missed? It's really annoying. I have to have the music up loud so I don't hear the silly whirring... I've had a look at the front of the car - the rca cables are lead underneath the passenger footwell, and at the base of the middle console there are a couple of smaller powered lines going through to my fog lights and powering my aif/fuel meter thingy, so they have to sort of cross at some stage. Would it work if I used aluminium foil to wrap the rca cables at this point to try and shield them? How far away does a power cable have to be to avoid interference? If anyone has any advice it would really be appreciated; I'm at my wit's end with this problem... Thank you in advance (i hope). cheers!

I've also had some trouble with my drivers window. I ended pulling everything apart myself. This is what was happening: The window just decided to stop working altogether, although when I pressed the up/down button I heard the little click (coming from the box attatched to the door, near the handle). Upon further inspection (and unscrewing the bracket holding the winder motor) I unscrewed the motor and found that it still worked. After some playing around, I found that when the worm gear (the curly bit on the bit in the middle that spins) was pushed in towards the motor, it would cease working. If I pulled it out a bit again it would work. What this means, as far as I can guess, is that when the window is pushed one way (up? -as in window goes down but stops and motor keeps going) the motor stops working until pushed the other way for a bit. What i found was that sometimes when my window goes all the way down, it doesn't always work, so I have to get my finger and nudge the window a bit to make it work. One of these days when I have time to spare I'll pull it apart again and see if I can work out a permanent fix. At least I know a temporary one so I don't have to pull the door apart at the supermarket or somewhere public! I presume it's an electrical contact in the motor, but it would involve a bit of an operation to fix... Hopefully this might help a bit. ### oh yeah, a word of caution. When getting the bracket that holds the motor unscrewed, you'll have to be supporting the glass well, because when it's loose, the window goes down and the motor goes up. When I was trying to fix mine, it slipped a bit and the motor left a scratch up the inside of my window! beatch! If you do need to get the motor out, I think there are 4 screws you undo from your side, then reach around the back with a phillips head bit secured in pliers or something and undo I think 3 screws on the motor to get it off. There is very little room so I found it possible only after unscrewing the motor bracket. Good luck!

The noise I get is in every gear. I hadn't really thought of putting it under the bonnet. I think I remembered the guy in jaycar saying to go as close to the battery as possible. If I had the choice I'd rather install it in the boot rather than in the engine bay. If need be I guess I could put it up front. Anyone got any further ideas or info?

I had bendix ultimates and they squeeled like a beatch and drove me nuts. I went and bought some of that anti squeel spray but it didn't help me at all ( i still had anti squeel shimmy things in there though). When I changed brake pads I got LUCAS ones put in, and they have not made a single noise ever! I'm so impressed with these pads, they stop beautifully, don't leave my rims as filthy as the bendix ones, and they don't squeek! So there's my advice, use the Lucas pads! (I've heard the RB ones are a bit squeeky too!)

Hey folks, I'm suffering from a terribly annoying noise coming from the alternator. It's been there ever since I bought the skyline. I believe that this can happen when you have your input wires too close to power cables. So, I went and bought one of those noise cancelling things from jaycar and I was told to put this between the alternator and the battery, closest to the battery side. I'm driving a series I R33 ('93) and the battery is in the boot. The only wire connected to the +ve side of the battery comes from the box next to it. My question is this: Where should I be putting this device in? At the moment I have it wired between battery and fuses, going into the amps, but it doesn't really do anything. I tried putting it in between the battery and this little box thing next to it, but the car didn't even start, so that quickly changed.... (In case I've confused anyone with what "noise cancelling device" I'm talking about, it's a cylindrical shaped thing with a positive cable coming out each end and a negative wire coming out one side. I'm told that that it doesn't matter with direction it's facing when wired, as long as it is grounded.) If anyone can help me out with this it would be greatly appreciated - even though I can't hear the whinning with loud music, when it's down low it drives me up the wall! Thanks in advance!

I'm not 100% sure what to use, but I'd hazard a guess that a mould resistant silicone that will stick to plastic should do the job. (Otherwise known as bathroom/kitchen silicone). Just read the back of the tube to make sure it'll stick to your plastic. The heat gun sounds like a somewhat safer way to do it too... If I was going to pull my light apart, I'd go the heat gun over and oven!! Anyway, good luck with it. Oh, with the silicones, get one that dries CLEAR, not white! cheers!

I get the same thing dude... I think it's an inherant thing. I haven't cleaned and sealed it up yet. I've looked this prob up before and people seem to say it is glued and you can unglue it by putting it in a WARM (not hot) oven for a bit to soften glue, then it just peels off... I'm not game enough to do this. Maybe wait till it's warm and the vapor has gone from inside, then just reseal the edge with silicone or something... Well, hope you sort it out, it's a bit annoying hey? cheers.

Thanks guys. Any idea how much one of those tension tester things is? I'm presuming I can pick one up at autobarn or supercheap or somewhere like that?? Thanks for the advice, and yes it does happen more in this miserable melbourne winter. dumbass rain... cheers.