RB_purr

Because race car

Hey guys i just removed my rear spoiler off my R33 GTS-T Series 2 and i am looking to buy a lip spoiler/ducktail spoiler Will pick up from location and reasonable offers only.. Ebay have them but at almost 300 for fibreglass i think ill pass on the ebay ones Located in south gold coast PM or text 0403909521 Cheers!

I understand what you're saying there it's just such a nice exhaust but the full kit from turbo back is 1200 and only suits rb26 plus I would have to have some fabrication done when all I really want is the tip cheers for your response though

Anyone?

Who in Queensland fits WM kits ? Preferably Gold Coast end

Hey guys just wanted to know if anyone can recommend somewhere in Queensland that will fit a water methanol injection kit and also recommended brands of w/m injection like snow performance and aquamist etc Cheers guys

Hey guys just chasing a set of tomei poncams to suit an RB25det series 2 R33 Needs to be 256/256 with 8.5mm lift Cheers

Hey guys just chasing a tomei expreme ti muffler to purchase end to suit an R33 so basically just the end piece as pictured below Im willing to accept any offer that is reasonable Cheers

Hey guys real quick question in regards to purchasing tomei poncams for an RB25DET R33 the question is which ones to get. There are many types with different lift etc which is like reading NASA blueprints to me Engine is a RB25DET with the usual stage 1 mods and boost tee running 14psi@187kw Im looking for bigger power in the future but i don't want terrible idle etc and just want poncams that will work efficiently with my current power and that will also work with more power in the future Any help on what lift etc to get would be excellent and preferably people with good knowledge on them as im looking to purchase them fairly soon as im also having some top end components machined Cheers guys hope you all had a good christmas [RB25DET Equipped Cars (Excluding NEO)] Lash IN252 Degree 9.15mm [ER34/WGNC34 Late Model] Lash IN260 Degree 9.15mm [ER34/WGNC34 Late Model] Lash EX 256 Degree8.50mm [RB25DET Equipped Cars (Excluding NEO)] Lash EX 252 Degree 9.15mm [ER34/WGNC34 Late Model] Lash EX 260 Degree 9.15mm [ER34/WGNC34 Late Model] Solid IN260 Degree 9.25mm [RB25DET Equipped Cars (Excluding NEO)] Solid IN260 Degree 10.25mm [RB25DET Equipped Cars (Excluding NEO)] Solid IN270 Degree 9.25mm [RB25DET Equipped Cars (Excluding NEO)] Solid IN270 Degree 10.25mm [RB25DET Equipped Cars (Excluding NEO)] Solid EX 260 Degree 9.25mm [RB25DET Equipped Cars (Excluding NEO)] Solid EX 260 Degree 10.25mm [RB25DET Equipped Cars (Excluding NEO)] Solid EX 270 Degree 9.25mm [RB25DET Equipped Cars (Excluding NEO)] Solid EX 270 Degree 10.25mm [RB25DET Equipped Cars (Excluding NEO)]

Hey guys just had a bit of engine noise diagnosed on the 33 turns out to be the camshaft bearings are quite worn out so the question is can you replace those bearings? Can I just buy tomei poncams and replace it altogether or are bearings separate or what ? Excuse my lack of knowledge on the subject I'm not too familiar with engine bearings Thanks in advance Curtis

They didn't test drive the vehicle on road but the car was running just fine before it was tuned The only thing I noticed was the revs dropping very low when I came to a complete stop but it wasn't until the next day when the vehicle was cold that I noticed every little thing shaking and lumpy and hunting idle and then it got really bad one day and kept stalling

Oh and 89cal they checked the plugs and they are all good

Cheers for the input but it's the factory BOV to be honest I cannot stand the whoosh sound and would rather block it off.... I'm not going to mess with anything and will leave it down to the tuner to fix once they have done that I'll be off to see good old matty spry and get a real tune done

They can't blame the car everything is running that smooth as anything prior to the ECU going in even had the car checked mechanically and it's running sound so the tuning is the culprit

Hey guys done a fair bit of searching on this but have been unsuccessful... R33 gtst series 2 rb25det Splitfire packs Apexi pod Boost tee FMIC Stock turbo Apexi power fc So guys just had an apexi power fc installed on the 33 and the idle is rough when warm and cold, the cold start seems like it isn't even initiating on startup, when the clutch is in when coming to a full stop the revs drop dangerously low to about 400rpm and there's flat spots throughout the rev range oh and not to mention when I turned the air con off today on the way to work it stalled and then when I started the engine I had to keep the engine revs up or else the engine would shake and try and stall... I'm not going to name the tuner as I wouldn't want to give them a bad name all I know is that they apparently didn't have the software on their laptops to suit the latest style of apexi units so instead they used the latest hand controller that came with the unit. I'm sure a lot of the problems are tuning related and need to be fix via a tune but I would rather not pay to have something fixed because of poor tuning on their behalf. Will a tuner fix their mistakes at their own costs or what? Because I'll be damned if I'm paying for them to fix it Cheers

Hey guys just had an apexi installed so im selling the factory ecu no it hasnt been piggybacked or fiddled with it stock as a rock Factory ECU to suit R33 gts-t series 2 (RB25det) Asking price is $50 Just email me [email protected] or text 0403909521 Im located in South east queensland Willing to post as buyers expense Cheers

i do plan on making bigger power further down the track but im big on making sure the engine has good starting grounds before it starts having mass amounts of power thrown through it.. if they are changing bearings it wouldnt hurt to throw a set of poncams in while theyre at it because i have seen some good things about them not neccessarily power gains but the way the power delivers itself through the rev range etc.. Question is though what type of poncams do i get there types with certain lift etc.. but i dont want to have that all adjusted and worry about valve springs and stuff i just want a drop in set oh cars why u do this! Cheers gents

Redline EFI its the mechanic i always use never had dramas with them and always do what needs doing properly first time every time So i just took the car to have the noise checked out using a piece of equipment which im unsure of the technical term for it as i have never seen or used one but it was a snap on amplifier that connected to different sections throughout the motor using about 6 or 8 clamps that were clipped onto the turbo engine mounts manifold etc and you put a set of headphones on and had a listen and good news it was top end noise and cam bearings was the big bad wolf so its safe to say im happy with that as the bottom end was almost silent as a pose to the cam noise Anyway now the problem has been pinpointed tomie poncams and tomei cam gear are sounding like the goods and of course cam bearings but the question is where can i get cam bearings for an RB25DET i know tomei poncams and gears are not hard to come by just wanted to check in with people on the forum as to whether tomei poncams and gears are the go and also where to find camshaft bearings Cheers guys!

I agree with both of you off to go get a proper check done in about an hour

thanks for the heads up guys wastegate was definitely sticking.... it got stuck once today on the dyno run So what do you all think? Revert back to a straight downpipe Get a dowpipe with a longer intergrated dump? Bellmouth style dump pipe like Darth Kerjo said Cheers guys

Hey guys please enlighten me there are so many things scattered throughout SAU about engine rebuilds and bottom end bearings failing but they all seem to end in people arguing about whose kettle is better than their toaster and mass amounts of cursing haha Vehicle: Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T Series 2 (96) ODO: 130,000 Modifications: FMIC Splitfire packs Apexi pod filter with cold air intake Full 3" exhaust with hi flo woven cat and split dump and resonator removed Stock turbo running 14psi@185kw with turbosmart boost tee Apexi power fc tuned today (Thanks chiptorque!) Apart from that things are pretty much stock until my bank account says so otherwise haha Anyway the matter of the topic is that i just had the power fc installed today and the boost wound up a little but apparently the tuner can hear some bottom end bearing noise which i cannot hear but apparently is there. I am yet to have any knock checked properly with the right equipment just to be sure of any problems My 3 options are New engine Motor rebuild or fetch me a prius and some AA batteries Im not liking the idea of a new motor especially when 95% of them are second hand and if you can find a new one then you will have to start chopping limbs off to afford them ha For now i have my mindset on a rebuild but i have never come to the stage of needing to rebuild a motor on any of my cars now i have heard of rebuild kits such as this one http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-engine-rebuild-kits/nissan-rb25det-rebuild-kit The kit consists of SPOOL Forged H Beam Conrods CP or Ross Forged Pistons (Rings, Pins and Locks Included) Cometic MLS Head Gasket ACL Race Series Main Bearings - STD & 0.25mm ACL Race Series Big End Bearings - STD & 0.25mm So the question is.. Is a rebuild kit like the one above going to solve my problems? yes it a pricey process but hey thats the 4 wheeled money pot i guess Anyone with some helpful advice i would greatly appreciated

Hey guys just hoping someone could enlighten me on some troubles with my 33 turbo etc. I have searched numerous times for answers to the problem but still no luck :| R33 GTS-T series 2 96 The mods are as follows Splitfire coilpacks FMIC Full 3 inch exhaust with split dump and high flow cat Apexi pod filter Stock turbo setup nothing changed at all Okay so down to the actual problem. So generally boost kicks in at about 2500-2700rpm on the stock turbo anyway since having the exhaust done as soon as I left the workshop hey presto turbo kicks in at 5500rpm which is ridiculous ! Sure enough the exhaust sounded great but I guess I was in for a tune. Luckily I had an Apexi power fc already on the way but I can't understand why the turbo kicks in so late when I only had a split dump installed and resonator removed. Now here's the weird thing. About 3 weeks later I was boosting it hard on a hill run and after a good flogging the turbo somehow began to work normal again and started spooling at 2500-2700rpm and had been fine ever since except the exhaust is now a lot quieter than it was when I left the shop I'm just wondering why is it that it somehow went from being ridiculously late and then back to normal again? Wastegate stuck open? And why is the exhaust now seemingly quieter I don't know so send help guys!! Haha Many thanks in advance Curtis

Hey all just a tutorial on a cold air intake which I did for my 33 I forgot to post in DIY forums so here the link below http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?/topic/430125-R33-Cold-Air-Intake-Pipe-Diy

Hey guys just a quick tutorial on a DIY cold air intake which I made for my R33 GTS-T S2 Basically it a cold air flow pipe going up from the inside of the front bumper up through the old hole which the side mount cooler piping used to go through which I made slightly larger to fit my pipe through etc. Tools needed: -10mm/8mm ratchet/socket -Jigsaw/hacksaw/drill (or whatever will be easiest for you to cut out a hole with) -Metal file Now the bits you need to buy are fairly cheap I got it all from bunnings -flexible rangehood duct piping 1mtr -100mm round rubber tube/hose -hose clamps to suit 100mm -cable ties Once you have everything you need it should take about 1 hour to do. The flexible piping for those of you confused about what it is it's what's used in rangehood ducting or ducting for air conditioning etc. It comes in 3m at the smallest and costs $28. It extends out like a slinky and can be bent in multiple directions and lengthened by pulling it and shortened by squashing it down. I only used a metre at the most and bent it into a 90 degree angle to form the air flow tube. The rubber tube with the hose clamps are what you use when connecting cooler pipe together etc I'm sure people know what I mean there's multiple ones throughout the engine already with silver hose clamps around them. Now to get started I measured out a 95mm circle around the old side mount intercooler hole in the engine bay and cut it out using a hacksaw. I then filed all the sharp edges off using a metal file and measured how much piping I wanted to run from the front bumper and up through the hole you just made. I then put the ducting pipe through the inside of the rubber hose and slipped it through the 95mm hole so that it just poked through by about 1cm. There is no need to screw or fix the piping in as the rubber hose should sit snug in the hole and not move around. Once you are happy with how that's sitting tighten a hose clamp around the end of the rubber hose so it's clamping the ducting pipe inside of it this will stop it falling out. Now I'm not sure what front bar people have obviously but mine was on a top secret front bar and I ran that piping down from the engine bent it at 90 degrees and fixed another 100mm rubber house and clamped it onto the other end of the ducting pipe to stop it curling from heat and also so I could secure it to the underbody trim so it won't move around but make sure you have it sitting how you want it to before you cable tie it down to the trim and also point it slightly downwards so any water that might get in will run off it once you're done check it over and make sure it's secure Well I think that's mostly all any questions feel free to ask me and also I did notice a difference in responsiveness with the turbo and found that it wasn't trying to chug on hot air from the motor Next is a CAI box and will write up a tutorial when I do it. Sorry about the limited pictures but you get the idea Hope this helps! RB_purr

Hey all just thought id throw a few questions out for the people with the knowledge on turbos I currently have a R33 series 2 with a stock Rb25det and i am looking to upgrade from the nasty stock turbo to a TD06 20 or 25g made by an overseas company which is a identically built turbo to the genuine Greddy TD06. The replica name i think is koniguwa or around those lines but regardless let get down to business. What supporting mods will be needed to run a bigger turbo? i am looking to make around 350 to 400hp eventually and as far as i know i need bigger injectors and fuel pump what else is necessary to ensure the correct setup etc is reached without damaging any internals? Excuse me if i have missed out info that may be important or it sounds noob at all im no good with the turbo side of things on skylines Your help would be appreciated cheers!