Spooger

They dyno'd it but they only ran it at 8-10 pound. I'm at a loss, I can see these guys rubbing their hands together licking their lips at the money the want to make off me. They claim they can't print off the specs off their dyno'd machine as I asked for them. I don't know if I trust them or not. They said it has a shitload of blow by yet when I have checked it, it was minimal! Hulp!! What do I do? I'm in a regional area and we have only 2 places who know (sorta) how to work on these.

I haven't seen it yet, the guy said it blows smoke.

Well looks like a rebuild for me. Or do I sell it? What would it be worth in its current condition?

Thanks heaps guys! Really do appreciate all the help so far! Great to see a forum that has good people on it! Will try my mech tomorrow about "bunging" it. I seriously hope that fixes the issue. REALLY don't wanna fork out for a rebuild or it gonna be spaghetti for me for the next few months O_o Curious to know about silicone, I'd say your assumption would be spot on though. One question, if I ditch the catch can, what will all that oil do if I just run the pipe from one of the top pipes to the othe (factory I assume) will it bellow smoke?

Ok I searched high and low, repco, Burton's, super cheap, autobahn, and even Clark's rubber. No one has something to block the Pcv outlet off the rocket cover.

Ok no problem. What is considered low? It's got 120,000km on it. Prob had a semi rough life too (drift car)

Yeah it's a fair bit of oil that is sprayed out. The catch can is full after 30km. I did give it a few boosts during that period (I know prob a bad idea but I couldn't resist :-P) it also used about 60% of the 4 liters I put into it (after draining it)

Thanks ahhbee. Yeah I've been told by a few ppl ring lands. I have only driven the car about 30km since owning it, it's done about 1000km in 18 months, I have my dear little fingers crossed its just because it's plumbed wrong and been sitting so long.

Any chance I can bug for a picture so I don't stuff it up? I've been very paranoid about playing with any of it incase I stuff the car.

Ok this may explain my stupidness with this, the rocket cover 'intake' is either of the 2 pipes that come off the top of the rocket cover right?

Awesome!! Thanks for advice will rebook tomorrow and post pics (hopefully a nod of approval with what is done) would this cause the oil to splatter out the catch can when the turbo boosts? That along with the boost controller not connected.

Sorry O_o I thought I posted it in the wrong section. I just went and bought all service parts for it and will give it a whizz tomorrow with new platinum spark plugs, oil filter, and fuel filter.

Hey guys, so I got myself a gtst and joined the team. The engine has had a bit of work done to it. It's running a Garrett M24 and I have some serious pressure issues with the catch can. I have asked a few local mechanics and have gotten different responses. From - its rooted to its fine it's just not tuned correctly. One guy basically screamed at me firmly telling me "no engine should have blow by" yet my mate who is the PDM at Toyota/Nissan told me even brand new cars do it which even is backed up on what I have read online. He further went on to show me his turbo hilux, that thing chugged like a steam train from the oil filler. He placed the oil cap over the top and the damn thing started dancing over the rocket cover. The car doesn't blow any smoke except occasionally a very brief puff when changing gears (first drive of day) there was water in the oil but minimal amounts. I have confirmation the car has only done 1000km in the last 18 months. My mate from Toyota said that he would expect a car sitting that long to have that amount of water in it anyway (condensation) considering the doozy of the problem it has. I had a compression test done and it's a fairly even 120 across the board. However when the car is kicked in the guts oil splatters out of the catch can. I have been told - rebuild it! Suspected ring lans. However when I decided to start pulling the engine out this weekend we found the boost controller had a blown fuse and here is where I'd LOVE the advice, seems like the catch can system is plumbed wrong. (please remember I am a complete noob with these) from what we are assuming, is the Pcv tube isn't connected to the catch can rather it is plumbed back into the boost side of the intake. I will post pics soon as I can. We are under the assumption that the Pcv is trying to boost 20psi through the top end of the engine and going straight into the tubes that run from the rocket cover into the catch can and blasting it out the filter on the top. When the valve is connected the filter on the catch can blows bubbles when idling, yet when u disconnect it, it stop. Any help much appreciated!! Top tube goes to pcv shown on first pic

Where is stock on these?

Top tube goes to pcv shown on first pic

Hey guys, so I got myself a gtst and joined the team. The engine has had a bit of work done to it. It's running a Garrett M24 and I have some serious pressure issues with the catch can. I have asked a few local mechanics and have gotten different responses. From - its rooted to its fine it's just not tuned correctly. One guy basically screamed at me firmly telling me "no engine should have blow by" yet my mate who is the PDM at Toyota/Nissan told me even brand new cars do it which even is backed up on what I have read online. He further went on to show me his turbo hilux, that thing chugged like a steam train from the oil filler. He placed the oil cap over the top and the damn thing started dancing over the rocket cover. The car doesn't blow any smoke except occasionally a very brief puff when changing gears (first drive of day) there was water in the oil but minimal amounts. I have confirmation the car has only done 1000km in the last 18 months. My mate from Toyota said that he would expect a car sitting that long to have that amount of water in it anyway (condensation) considering the doozy of the problem it has. I had a compression test done and it's a fairly even 120 across the board. However when the car is kicked in the guts oil splatters out of the catch can. I have been told - rebuild it! Suspected ring lans. However when I decided to start pulling the engine out this weekend we found the boost controller had a blown fuse and here is where I'd LOVE the advice, seems like the catch can system is plumbed wrong. (please remember I am a complete noob with these) from what we are assuming, is the Pcv tube isn't connected to the catch can rather it is plumbed back into the boost side of the intake. I will post pics soon as I can. We are under the assumption that the Pcv is trying to boost 20psi through the top end of the engine and going straight into the tubes that run from the rocket cover into the catch can and blasting it out the filter on the top. When the valve is connected the filter on the catch can blows bubbles when idling, yet when u disconnect it, it stop. Any help much appreciated!!

I might be interested in the gear leathers.

I ended up buying it :-) no bloody bumper though!!! Grrr

Hi guys I'm chasing a front bar for my R33. I'm not sure if it's a series 1 or 2. It has the colour coated skyline badge on the boot lid but it doesn't have a passenger airbag. Build date is 12/95 I was told it is a series 2 but the information I have found online is conflicting. How can I know for certain which one it is?

The other thing that had me raise eyebrows at was he swears it had work don't to the engine at boost worx QUEENSLAND, however I can't locate a boost worx in qld but I could in SA. I called them and showed them the car sales advertisement. They say they don't know the car (or the Vic reg) but the engine looked familiar/something they would have done. They also told me going by the sticker on the rear window the work would have been performed at minimum 3-4 years ago. I know the guy who is selling it has owned it for less than 12 months. He said the engine was sent to get the work done not the car (this was said BEFORE I rang boost worx SA) so the 2 storys add up but says he didn't do it, a previous owner to him did. Vicroads confirmed it has been owned in a few different states so that made a more viable story than what I was told. I think the only wrong he told me, or rather implied is HE got the work done to it. Boost worx couldn't locate it by its current reg (as they save it in the database by reg not engine.... Um that's a bit silly but ok) So my conclusion - He didn't Get the work by boost worx done Boost worx THINK it's had work by them (engine only) Vicroads confirm its been registered by owners in other states Car has a bloody LOT of power Owner was quite educated on engine capabilities (and modifications) Another issue (minor) I tried entering the vin into car history.com and it couldn't located the vin, which seems like it hasn't been registered in (I think) Nsw or qld (I'm pretty sure that's all car history/revs is linked too)

Lol RACV check* I went to check it out, I had a look over it. Seemed fine. He took me on a test driven it. When he took drove it he gave it some curry for me and it went sideways at a T intersection at about (I think) 140kph. Engine peaked and successful drift right upto 4th. The only negative (other than cosmetics on bumper) was the battery died after leaving the interior light on for 30 minutes. He had to roll start it and he cringed, he said never to roll start them because they don't like it and not good for them,is this true or a massive warning sign something is seriously wrong?

If its a piece of shit is it still worth $5k though? Is there a Victorian RACQUET check? Like RACV checks? The ones I'm aware of seem dodgy. Our local RACV service provider (mechanics) is pretty ordinary.

Oh crap! I just checked our system on prices. It's extremely rude... RRP - $893 plus fitting ($16.50) for dunlops and goodyears. Discounted max is $748... That's for 275/30R19

Roadworthy rules (for Vic anyway) for tyres is the 2 front tyres have to be matching tread. The rears can be different tread, however the disadvantage is that you cannot rotate them to the front. If your having camber issues, a dunlop TT or asymetrical 2 may also be disadvantageous as they are both asymetrical tyres, meaning 'inside/outside' tyres. If you have massive camber issues it is benificial to be able to 'flip' your tyres so it then wears the old 'outside' of the tyre rather than the excessively worn 'inside' you cannot do this with asymetrical tyres. My 2 cents o_O

Dunlop sport maxx ty are a decent tyre, however I'd also recommend the Goodyear asymmetric 2. Both are on the same level however I personally feel the Goodyear is just a smidgen better quality. Sorry for butting in. (work for Beaurepaires)