Pandaemonaeon

I'd go for the rear suspension being too hard theory. I believe I have the same problem as I'm running Kei Office coilovers, and there is bugger all traction 1st, 2nd and sometimes 3rd. I'm looking at getting a set of softer springs made up for the rear though as many people have mentioned before that most Japanese coilovers spring rates are about twice what they really should be for the roads in Australia and New Zealand.

I think the Series II seats are bloody ugly, that's why I changed to R32 M Spec seats. They are far more comfortable too, as the sides adjust in far more for skinny people like me.

We have a 300m long gravel driveway at work so I don't really bother cleaning mine very often, and it only takes about 3 days for the rear end to turn black from fuel. One thing I did notice going from a black car to a white one is that bugs are really hard to clean off the front bumper. They leave nasty red smears everywhere that take about 10 minutes of hardout scrubbing to get rid of.

I think the Toyo Proxies T1-S are a bloody good tyre for the price you are paying for them.

I bought my '98 R33 with 96,000km on it. Came with all papers etc from the previous owner in Japan. You can never tell by looking at items like Steering wheel etc, as it depends on what the car has been used for. It was fairly obvious that my car had been used for drifting and because of it my steering wheel is completely worn.

265/35/18 do fit on the rear of an R32. My friend has done it but it requires quite a lot of camber. And you can fit a 235/45 onto a 9.5" inch rim as I have done this on my rear until I can afford to go back to 265's.

I was lucky to get a series II that came standard with Momo wheel.

I think the trim they have used on the seats is butt ugly. And the cup holder sucks, it's only capable of holding one of those crazy little japanese cans.

Below is the result of hitting a rock at speed when a car pulled out infront of us(not me driving). We were lucky though all that happened was I got a broken hand. Pic quality pretty bad as it was taken on a phone. Oh and that's the fuel tank on the back seat.

My advice is to run the cheap ass copper plugs, and gap them to 0.8mm like people have said. I have a friend that has always run copper plugs in his RB20DET that he uses for track work, and he swears by them. I think the issue with the other plugs is due to heat ranges or something.

On an R33 in 5th gear divide the revs by 26. Thats a pretty close calculation. So 7000rpm in 5th gear is 269.23km/h. My car cuts out at about 5250 which is 201.9km/h. I don't understand why though as this is more than the factory 180km/h and when it hits it it's a rev limiter. Doesn't slow down at all and starts backfiring all over the place.

Like this. The camera at work is absolute crap sorry.

You could do what I have done with my FBC hand controller and use a Flipdown DIN pocket under the H/U. An AVCR is a bit bigger so you would have to cut pieces out of it, but I'm sure it would still work. The flip down pockets should be available from any wrecker as they were in the R32.

AFAIK You'd have to chop pieces out of it, or buy a replica made for a gts-t as the GTR is wider due to the flaring of the front guards. There may be issues with mounting points also, not sure on that one sorry.

My friend also did exactly the same as pstanbis, but unfortunately it's not possible in an R33 as all the sensors for the climate control are there in an R33. He also at one stage took out his gauge sluster and mounted it in there with a piece of blanking sheet. That looked much better but I don't think it was all that legal.

Nah, i must be confusing people. I'm talking about a HICAS BOSS kit.

I drove around for two months with my HICAS light on. Previous owner had butchered the HICAS unit in the rear diff. I wish I hadn't fixed it now as the car was much better to drive without it.

Got the numbers wrong sorry. It should be 260 with 9mm of lift that I was wondering about. The 270 is with 10.5mm lift and pretty much for track use according to the info I was using.

When I first got my 33 the HICAS light stayed on and found out that when it went through compliance testing they put the wheel back on 400 degrees out. They have them here so I'm guessing Supercheap Auto's in oz have the hicas boss kits. They are about $65 if you need to get one.

We don't really have any trouble with cops here in NZ. They tend to pick on dodgy looking cars than one type in particular

I'm not 100% on all this and am looking at getting some cam work done. I've done a bit of researching and it seems that I should go for a 270 duration with 9mm lift. Should I be using the same for both intake, and exhaust or different profiles? Next question I have is when talking to the shop about the cams I was told that the Rb25DET has two different cams that are used, with one cam set bigger than the other. With these differences is it possible to interchange these cams between engines, or can you only use the bigger/smaller cams in an engine that originally came with these bigger/smaller cams?

Here is a pic of the car. Can't find any articles online though sorry. Apparently the 8.402 was done at the V8 nationals. Heat Treatments GTR