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Pandaemonaeon

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Everything posted by Pandaemonaeon

  1. I found using different BOV's also had an effect. I'm running a Trust Type S at the moment, which will do it at low revs, no matter how soft it is set, yet when running a standard BOV, and another one (not sure what it was) there was none.
  2. I had Tein RA's in my integra, and have had Apexi N1, and now run Kei Ofiice in my R33 and I would have to say that for road use the teins were the best I have had. The Apexi's weren't too bad, but the Kei Office is a full on drift set up and makes it rather rough on our bumpy NZ roads.
  3. Every time I change gear my car will backfire a little, but sometimes it's a really really big and loud explosion. It's pretty cool really. Especially in town during the middle of the day, scares the shit out of people.
  4. Sweet. Might look at doing it then. Already got all the relays and everything anyway for my 100W bulbs.
  5. I was looking at doing this to my 33, but was warned not to as it is likely to melt the light lenses. I was told that while high beam is on the lights can cool through the low beam and vice versa. Can anyone cofirm whether this is or isn't a problem?
  6. I got these that I want to sell. I think they are the Rays Engineering Nismo LM GT2. Only problem is I'm in NZ so shipping would cost a hell of a lot probably.
  7. I'm not sure it's possible with a mechanical one, but I know my EL one is capable of holding peak values, and has playback etc.
  8. H/U: Alpine CDA7913R I think (can't remeber) Front: Fusion Jonah 5.5" components, JBL GT 8's Rear: Kenwood Carbon coned 6" Subs: 2 X Fusion Jonah 12's Front Amp: Soundstream Tarantula 500/4 Sub Amp: Fusion Jonah D-Class modded to 1 Ohm stable. Battery and Wiring: Stinger/ Phoenix Gold Might get a Jonah 4 channel as I want to amp my rear's and run a set of components in the boot lid.
  9. You can import anything you want over here. No restrictions on models or anything, Just had to be post '96 unless the car had recorded frontal impact testing if it is pre '96. The main problem we have here though is that unlike australia cars do not hold their value due to being able to get anything you want from Japan for bugger all. I know it is possible to import and register etc an R33 GTR for around NZD 20,000.
  10. If you buy a NZ new R34 you are still looking at the 30-40K price range, but any of the imports are much cheaper. When I was looking around for a skyline I was going to get a 34 but when you are looking at one for 20K it will have done around 160,000km so it was much better to get a modified 33 for less.
  11. Just spoke to a friend who has this problem and was told it's not a matter of the AFM being maxed, it's just reading a different amount to what the ECU would expect. He has a T3/T4 on his 25DET and it does it even on standard boost. Note: This is on a R34 engine and ECU so could be slightly different to R33
  12. You will be likely to have a problem with the AFM. What you have done is increase the flow rate in the intake by increasing the flow on the turbo. When you are flooring it the computer is reading throttle poistion, boost level etc, but all of a sudden the amount of air the AFM is ready is a hell of a lot more than it should be for the boost the car is running. There is also a pretty good chance that the fuel pump can't keep up with the demands.
  13. I had the problem on my R33 which was due to the standard plumb-back hose was not plugged completely so there was a slight amount of air leaking. Fixed that up properly and there was no problem any more.
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