maverick_au98

Will the "custom alluminium airbox for r33 gtr, powdercoated black" fit over M's pod filters?

Can I get a price on slotted front rotors for an R33 GTR V-Spec? And a separate price on rears? Is there a beter price if you get both? And approx delivery price to Vic 3216? Cheers!

Make: Nissan Model: 180SX Milage: 125000 Transmission: 5 Speed Manual Colour: White/Black Location: Geelong, Victoria Complied? Yes. 1998 RWC supplied? No Currently registered? Yes Price: $10500ono Contact: Rohan 0412944740 Comments / Modifications: More Details See Below Pictures Images: For sale is this JDM clasic, Nissan 180SX Custom Sil80 Coupe. Strong SR20DET Turbo engine, great handling suspension and much more. As you can see from the photo's, this is a great looking car! This car is a great performer at stock boost! Specs are as follows:- 1992 180SX with Silvia Front, Custom 2 Tone Panda Style Gloss Paint. SR20DET Turbo BLACKTOP, thats done 83,000km, 5 Speed Manual, Excedy Clutch, Aftermarket Suspension, Type-X lights rear, Genuine GT Silvia front lights HKS frontmount intercooler, Custom intercooler piping, Stainless Steel Exhaust Dump and Front pipe, Stainless Steel Exhaust Manifold, TRUST exhaust with dual tips, ARC airbox, Alloy Radiator, Enki 17" Rims. and much much more. Long Reg. It also has a heap of little items that are worth a fortune, like hks oil cap, blitz radiator cap. ANY INSPECTIONS WELCOME. Arangements to view this car can be made by calling me on 0412944840. THIS IS A STREET LEGAL PERFORMANCE VEHICLE AND IS CURRENTLY REGISTERED. COMPLIED IN 1998. ANY QUESTIONS WILL BE ANSWERED PROMPTLY. Cheers! Rohan

You CAN make an R33 GTR real wheel drive only, WITHOUT removing the prop shaft. I have done this many times for dyno runs. Under the drivers side dash, there is a small brown plug with a yellow wire. Disconnect this with the car turned off. Then when you start the car, pump the brake pedal 8 times in 5 seconds and you will see the light flash on the dash. Then drive the car forward for a little bit to complete the depreasurisation. This de-preasurises the centre diff housing, but also disables the A-LSD diff on V-Specs, but this is no problem on a dyno. Once the key is tuned off, this resets the centre diff to re preasurise This information came from the towing recomendations section from the skyline service manual. Hope this helps!

Im after an R33 GTR font right stub alxe assembly(drivers side). No brake parts required. If anyone has 1 off a R33 GTR front cut, or know someone who might have 1, let me know. Thanks. Rohan.

Do you still have the oil restrictor?

Thanks heaps. Now its up for sale on Ebay.

Hi All, Is this the ABS ECU? It has R33 GTS-T. Number - 2850519U10 3Y04 If not, what one is it? Came in a box of various bits. Cheers!

Hi all, Got a door, now looking for the R33 GTR Drivers side guard. ANY ONE GOT 1?????????????????????????????? Cheers!

I'm guessing your in WA? PM me with a price... Anyone in Victoria????

Hi All, Im after an R33 Complete drivers side door & an R33 GTR drivers side guard. Prefer Melbourne/Victoria area. Cheers! Rohan.

Do you have a drivers side guard and complete door?

How much for drivers door complete? PM me...

I have a complete RB26DETT engine wiring loom for sale in very good condition. Good for engine upgrade in R32 or R33 or transplant or RB26 into a 180sx or Silvia. Or for all you die hard Tokyo Drift fans, use it as the transplant into your Mustang!!! I have it listed on ebay as will. Click the link below http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...E%3AIT&rd=1 Make me an offer!!!

Does anyone know if you can use the front diff crown wheel and pinion off an r32, r33 or r34 RB26DETT engine to suit the R33 GTR V-Spec?

Hi All, I'm after a front diff, in good condition, for a R33 GTR VSPEC. My diff has a chipped tooth, so a good crown wheel and pinion would probably do. The gears are reversed in the front diff, so a rear 1 doesnt substitute. I'm in the Melbourne area. Are there any reasonably priced after market units available? Thanks.

The 1 i got was from hioctaneracing.com.au http://hioctaneracing.com.au/eshop/product...products_id=343 You can also look at http://www.justjap.com/new_engine.htm but their a bit more expensive. or try http://www.nismo.com.au/pricelists/Tomei/t...umpbaffle-s.jpg RB26 Sump Baffle [T193034] $329.00AUD Engine code Type; RB26 Suited for Models: Nissan Skyline Manufacturer: Hi Octane Racing HOR Part #: T193034

Update:- Keeping standard rods. Getting them balanced and using arp rod bolts. Pistons ordered. Block off getting rebored.

Have had the head checked out again by the guy who rebuilt it. He has fixed the loose valve settings with the shims. All the valves were fine. Looks like the tap to the tops of the pistons broke the seal the rings had. Top ring had been hammered from extra boost from previous owner. Second ring was a bit wide in the gap. This was causing the crank case to get preasurised from blow by. Now getting oversized forgies 20thou and hone. Fully balancing bottom end.

What do the skirts need to be coated with? Is it like a chrome molly or similar?

UPDATE:- Now getting the block bored 20tho over, Forged pistons, Sump baffle, All bottom end fully ballanced by drag & race engine builder. This will all help with better engine response. As per my previous post, should i stay with the standard rods? are they good enough for 27psi+?

Valve's are all ok. From a visual inspection of the parts today, could not see what was causing low compression. The cyl's that the cam stoped turning on, actually had the higher compression. I was told the pistons in these engines run such fine tolerances that a hairline crack could be quite possible. So am getting forgies as their not much more than standards. Getting 20 tho overbore, fully ballanced bottom end, done by a mob who build race and drag engines. This will help with engine response rev speed. Anything else i should do to the bottom end while its in bits?

Good point. You just made think of something. Leakdown test on first go showed 3%. Then the exhaust cam broke (head rebuilder tensioned too much in middle first im guessing) when it was first started. Cam replaced. Idle good. No power. Leakdown test showed 25% on some cyl. I'm going to have to check with the guy who did the leakdown test, but im guessin its the same cyl's that the exhaust cam stoped turning on and its over preasurised the cyl and damaged something. Sound like a feasable theory?

ALL valves were bent. ZERO compression. Got head fixed and back on (all new valves/ shims/ guides) 130 comp and with oil in cyl, 190 comp. No score marks in bore. So was guessing ringlans, but will check top of pistons. Going to change them to forgies if their stuffed. Engine only done 60000km and last 10000 on freeway. Never seen any bad smoke besides some black under boost. Really got me stuffed, but i'll know monday when its all apart.

Thanks guys. I was looking at getting the Arias pistons. They come with rings already. Should i use these or should i go for the N1 Piston rings? Also looked at HKS but have heard that they are just re-stamped other brands. Are the Arias good bang for my buck? (pardon the pun) Have any of you used the Upper Oil restrictor Kits? I think Tomei make 1 but 1 cant seem to find anyone who supplies them or much info. What are the standard rods like? I will probably put ARP rod bolts in as i have heard this is a weak point. Wont be pushing much over 8000rpm. Also, I still only have stock cams, but was wondering if adjustable cam gears would benifit me in any way. If so, what way should they be adjusted for different performance settings? New cams possibile down the track. Car will be for sale after this is all done. I'll do a dyno run and a 1/4 mile run and post the results. Price still to be decided, but if your interested, let me know.