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R33 GTR - 1996 Series 2 100% of work, maintenance and modifications on this vehicle done by RACEPACE Motorsport. Selling the car due to a baby that has arrived this year, and boot is too small for prams, plus 2 door car and baby seat don’t mix well. Had the car for last 6 years, got it with 38,000kms on the clock, I have done 40,000kms on it driving it to work and back in traffic. Car never missed a beat or broke down. Not even a flat tyre. GTR was in storage between 2001 to 2007, as previous owner who imported it went overseas to work, and his contract kept getting extended. As soon I got the car I made sure there were no corners cut on it, and no expense spared. No rice or BS mods, just smart best modification to retain the car user friendly for daily use. I have many friends with GTRs since 1999, so I have had a lot of GTR knowledge to get it right first time. Plus I have been going to Racepace with my 240Z turbo since 2001 and learnt a lot about GTRs. I have just spent over $7K on the car. Had a major service at Racepace, where I was replacing standard Nissan gasket with a metal Tomei item, but once the head was off the motor I decided to refresh it to make sure it’s 100% when I sell it. $5.5K later… fully inspected motor, stripped and rebuilt head to latest Racepace specs (improved spool up), new clutch plate, all new gaskets, hoses, drive belts, clamps, Tomei metal head gasket, all fluids & oils changed. Also new brake rotors fitted (365mm x 34mm) a few months ago & new battery. The car was never circuit raced, as it was built as the ultimate daily GTR, that can be competitive on a track on the weekends. I have only taken it to Heathcote drag strip and DECA for a bit of fun. I didn’t want to circuit race it as I already have another car for that. At Heathcote on old Hancook tyres to be replaced, and old clutch that was starting to slip, 100% street trim, 34psi in tyres, it did 11.7 @ 124mph. Should be a bit faster on current tyres. When I took the GTR to DECA last year with Skylines Australia, it got the fastest lap of 5 tracks out of 6, where it was up against some more powerful cars, dedicated race cars and some exotics. This car has absolutely no squeaks or clanks. Suspension is firm but very pleasant, not bumpy at all. So much better than standard Tein RS coilovers which I had for 2 weeks. The exhaust is quiet enough not to attract attention, but sounds great on full throttle. No drone at all when cruising at all speeds. This car on the roll is faster than GTRs with extra 50+kw on it (with next size up turbos), as it spools so fast with the GT-SS turbos, it will jump 5 to 6 car lengths, then other more powerful GTRs will start pulling it in slowly at over 200km/h. This has been tested several times with friends on the roll in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears. On dyno when I compared graph of my GTR GT-SS setup to other GTRs with -5 turbos or HKS 25/30difference in down low power wasn't huge as you get to preload the car on the rollers. However on the street you don’t get to preload the car and the difference really shows. Very fat power curve. Car starts producing boost from 2200RPM, pulls hard from 3000rpm to 8400rpm redline. Under the bonnet the car looks stock, therefore cops can’t pick on it. Car is in the best condition then ever, as I gave just spent $1.5K on body work, fixing the bumper, removing tiny dints etc. Car makes 335rwkw on 19psi on Racepace Dyno, pulp fuel. Please drive a few other GTRs before you drive this one to appreciate how good it is on the road in every respect. Once driven it will be hard to resist. Drives better than most R34 GTRs. Here are some of the things done to it. GEAR BOX · RACEPACE Motorsport rebuild gear box (old one had noisy bearing) · Single plate circuit Exedy HD clutch, organic & copper mix, extremely user friendly, especially for daily driving. Takes an edge off drivetrain strain. Custom rebuilt tail-shaft with bigger replaceable uni joints. SUSPENSION · TEIN RS Coilovers re-valved by Racepace, with custom springs setup for street. The most pleasant firm suspension for the street you can have in a GTR (worth $4500). · 2.5 degrees camber in front, 1.5 degrees in the rear. EXHAUST · Custom made by Racepace, 3.75 inch, with a bigger twin tips out the back muffler, appears stock-ish (worth $3500) · Exhaust has 2 Racepace custom mufflers & race spec catalectic convertor. · Exhaust is pretty quiet with a bit of angry bark on full throttle. As per video link. · It's tucked in nicely under the car, as you can hardly see it (legal ground clearance) INTERIOR · Nismo 320km/h dashboard · Interior is in immaculate condition, would be extremely hard to find another R33 GTR with such perfect interior. · Electric windows & Mirrors · Air Conditioning · JVC head unit with Divx, DVD, MP3 playback, USB, Bluetooth hands free, iPhone cradle · Speakers: JL splits in doors, JL 6.5" rear, using factory speakers spaces, Alpine 4 channel amp. · 8" SUB in an enclosure, build in amp, can be removed in less than a minute. WHEELS & TYRES · Volk CE28 19" x10.5" 12mm offset (worth $4500) · 19" x 275 x 30 Bridgestone Potenza RE11R tyres (180 tread wear) fastest 100% street legal tyres, as used by japs in street class races. (worth $2200) BRAKES · AP Racing 6 piston callipers (Front) · 365mm x 34mm rotors, 24 slots on alloy hats, new rotors. · Ferrodo DS-2500 break pads front & rear (great pads for street and race), also spare set of PAGET race pads (I never used them) · Brakes are worth about $6000 new. ENGINE · R34 GTR - RB26 Twin Turbo · FULLY BUILD by Racepace Motorsport · Racepace Custom FORGED PISTONS & RING set · New OEM R34 GTR Crankshaft, rotating assembly fully balanced · Racepace custom main and big end bearings. · Fully blueprinted, block painted and precision assembly · Con-rods resized, bushes replaced and individually honed to suit piston pins. · New Nismo thermostat, New OEM Nissan gasket kit · Nissan N1 Oil Pump (Modified), Nissan N1 water pump. · Con-rods resized, bushes replaced and individually honed to suit piston pins. · Oil galleries modified, tap galleries, fit threaded plugs, modify water galleries, new welsh plugs. · Block bored and honed (strainer plate), decked to correct compression height, crank tunnel line honed to RPM specs. Strengthen weak points in the block (similar to N1 block) · Block/Head inspected, water and oil gallery plugs removed, hot-tanked, crack and pressure tested. · Improved combustion chamber shape. · Cylinder Head: Replace valve guides / stem seals, cut seats, face valves, match chambers, surface, re-shim valve clearances to RPM specs · New OEM cam-belt, new tensioner and idler pulleys. · Racepace custom 9L baffled and trap door circuit sump · Nismo 555cc Injector · Tomei 1.2mm MLS Head Gasket · Splitfire coilpacks · Head full reco to latest Racepace specs (made motor spool up much faster) · HKS genuine GT-SS Turbos · ARC Intercooler (made in Japan) · Power FC computer · Racepace Custom catch can · Meridian Motosport Oil Cooler Too many things to list. Well over $20K spent on the motor. The car is very composed, civilized and a lot of fun to drive, without worrying about braking anything. Supercar performance for daily use. Always garaged and kept in underground secure car park at work. This is one of the best examples of an R33 GTR in the country in a rare dark silver. Located in Melbourne Northern Suburb. Price: $34,690 For any more information please call Jack 0402 751143 or email me on [email protected]

Hi, I have a problem with my front turbo on my r32 gtr. Back story, purchase a set of HKS GT-SS from japan when they arrive the seals where gone in the turbo's so i had a full rebuild done on both turbos, then about a year later, my trust airfilter fell apart and was stuck into the front turbo damaging the turbo wheel. Had the front turbo rebuild again. Now the front turbo is leaking oil from the housing, there is also a build up of oil in the intake pipe (photo attached), The car still runs fine, turbo boost fine and makes good power and there are no sounds coming from the turbo. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this? One of the suggestion by my mech is that the turbo does not have the correct restrictor installed and therefore the turbo is getting too much oil (however he isn't 100% sure), the rear turbo does have a slight amount of oil on the housing but no where near the amount of the front turbo also the front turbo is leaking enough that it drips oil in my garage but the rear does not. From what i remember the turbo had the restrictor installed already in the turbo housing in the oil inlet. Is it possible that the restrictor wasn't put back after the turbo was rebuild the second time and if so would this cause the oil leak i am seeing? Any input or help would be greatful