Search the Community

Hey Guys, Looking for people who may be interested in buying my R33 GTS-T Overall, its a 1996 R32 - 2 Door Automatic in Gun Metal Gray. Interior and exterior are stock, I have tried to keep this car as close to the original factory spec as possible. As such it comes with the factory sunroof and water reflectors. I have not modified the engine at all. I have serviced it and kept it as stock as possible. The car does come with an after market turbo timber however, installed by previous owner. 160,000 k's on the odometer. I have driven the car for over a year and performed a major service at 150,000 and a minor service at 160,000. Overall the body is amazing. there are tiny scratches from just general use, but the car is still one of the best I have seen. The factory paint is starting to look old at the very top of the bonnet and on the drivers side mirror. The rest of the paint looks perfect. Interior is stock (except for the turbo timer) and looks amazing. No holes cut into anything, no extra gauges mounted etc. I am looking for offers of around $12,000 because of its condition, but would also be interested in swapping for an R34 with cash your way. Not in a rush to sell, but simply keen to see if anyone is interested. Regards

Up for sale is my R33 GTS-t Track Car. Lots of Fun!!! Rego, The car is registered until the 22nd of September 2013. Engine, Basicly a standard engine, 650cc injectors, Front mount intercooler, Alloy radiator and an apexi Power FC ECU. Gearbox, Short shift kit, Exedy light weight racing flywheel, Exedy heavy duty clutch and presure plate and a stainless steel braded clutch line to remove all the standard clutch lines. Breaks, R34 GTR Brembos (front and rear), 2 Piece StopTech disks on the front, All brake lines are stainless steel braided, Wilwood brake bias, Modified master cylinder to remove the standard proportioning valve so the Willwood brake bias performs better and a Hydrulic hand break. Suspension, Solid diff cradle mounts, all suspension links have been changed to rose joint links, BC Racing external reservoir shock absorbers, Front tie bar, front strut bar, HICAS removed, HICAS lockout bar, K-MAC custom 27mm solid front anti roll bar, K-MAC custom 24mm solid rear anti roll bar, nolathane diff mounts, nolathane sway bar links on the rear, nolathane sway bar clamp bushes on the front and rear, Wheels, SSR Speed Star Mesh, 17inchs by 9inches wide, +13 offset and also have Brembo clearance without spacers. These wheels are not in grate condition but are mega rare... VERY VERY RARE.... Tyres, Diamondback 235/45 R17 Interior, 6 point roll cage with a harness bar, door bars, windscreen bar, Bride seats, 2 FIA RPM harness's, Complete striped interior (no radio, a/c, heater, sound deadening), OMP steering wheel, quick release steering wheel boss, battery isolator. Exterior, Painted in De Beer White, rolled guards, M-Spec front bumper bar, GTR rear pods, series 2 wing. Ancillaries, Electric radiator fan, 2L surge tank, Fuel cooler, High pressure fuel pump, Diff cooler, 6 cell deep cycle battery. I may have missed some stuff so best you come down and see the car for yourself, if you have any questions please do not hesitate to call me on 0400 234 027.

So I've been having this issue lately on and off where the engine looses power. The best way to describe it would be it's like turning off the car except all the electrics, dash, lights and everything else works perfectly it's just the engine cutting out. I've had it into the mechanics and like usual they couldn't get it to do it. So they have given me the usual check list. Wriggle the loom with the car running and try to cause the problem, change AFM and back the BOV off a bit but I'm still having this issue. The problem is it might not do it for a day or two then just when I begin to think the problem has gone, BAM cuts out again then it will play up every 100m. Sometimes it will only loose power for a split second other time it will do it for a 30 or 40 seconds. It happens any time from being stopped at lights to cruising at 100km/h. Normally it will stall then I will turn it on and it fires fine for maybe .5 of a second then it stalls do that 3 or 4 times till it finally stays running. I have noticed when it has stalled while the revs are still dropping if I hold the accelerator in the boost gauge moves from vacuum to 0 and I can hear a slight sucking noise. I'm not sure if that has any bearing on anything or not but it's about the most I can come with. The fuel gauge is also playing up which has me thinking maybe there could be an electrical fault in the pump craddle somewhere and the fuel pump is loosing power. Anyone had this problem before or does anybody have any idea's of what else I could try? It's really doing my head in. Also the car is relatively stock just has a front facing plenum, front mount, exhaust and boost-T. Thanks