Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking at doing a moderate build on my rb20det.

Can anyone give me approximate prices on a few things.

Adjustable cam gears?

Custom Inlet manifold?

High flow of the t3?

Mild porting of the head?

tougher head gasket?

fuel system (any ideas?)

Stock Computer (what can it handle?)

Can you guys advise anything else to do to an rb20 to get a reliable 190-220rwkw?

also,

is an rb24 possible?

and how much would it cst fo rthe rb26 crank and rods?

Ive heard of MASSIVE improvements with this.

cheers

-Nath

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11124-rb24/
Share on other sites

rb 2.4 is an expensive exercise unless you can do the engine work your self for 190 200 rwkw no need for a tougher head gasket. a guy from here made 188 rwkw with a hifowed turbo ecu bigger fuel pump and 18 psi

cheers

meggala

rb2.3 is a cheaper exercise with the rb 25 crank and rods

http://www.meggala.com/nissanrb3css.htm

the info is at the bottom of that page for the rb2.4

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11124-rb24/#findComment-184086
Share on other sites

any idea of price?

I'm not that experienced, so i have no idea how much these will cost and if they are rare.

I expect it would be a good $500 for the rods and pistons???

How much for the rb2.3 and what kind of power am i looking at?

I have friends who can help me do the work, we did the engine conversion it is now in, by ourselves. Thats still running fine, so there shouldn't be much problem in fitting it, its just the tuning part i'd leave up to professionals.

How much to high flow the t03?

Ive been told that aftermarket ecu's need continuous tuning and are a waste of time and money and one should just remap and chip the stock computer.

Any advice you can give me?

-Nath

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11124-rb24/#findComment-184247
Share on other sites

will the rb 2.3 is not a bad motor one company in in japan made over 1000 of them should rev fine with good rod bolts these motors need custom pistons to suit of 81 or 82 mm tomei make the pistons for the 2.4 they are 30000 yen each or $440 each so nearly 2500 for just pistons at least 1 k for the machine work 1k for gasket etc then 1k for assembly you see where its heading then if your going to do all this work you want a big MOF turbo with external gate 3-5k then you need injecotrs afm the the rb20 box wont be strong enough so you need an rb 25 box 2k + with clutch its not worth it unles syou going for an all out track car to take a record with the 2.4 kit I have seen 700 hp + made with t88 turbos.

and the stock rb 20 will handel 250 rwkw so why change

meggala

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11124-rb24/#findComment-184361
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...