Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

Wondering if any of u guys actually had this problem before. Got my car tuned(Pow FC) about 2 weeks ago. I realised my engine check light starts flashing from 5000rpm to 6500rpm on 3rd and once in a while 2nd. Checked my knock readings which is about 80+ and that explains why the engine check light flashes. BUT this dont happen all the time, sometimes i get knock readings like an average of 25 which is very good at high revs on 3rd.

Q1) Why is my knock reading off by so much at high revs and shouldnt it be roughly the same?

Q2) Should I pull some timing out?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112839-engine-check-light/
Share on other sites

It depends what load map point is being read, and what the timing value is there.

Also the intake temps and other things affect it all

Simply put, if you note the speed/gear/rpm and throttle possie, the tuner will take all of 2-3 mins to find the cell(s) and adjust them.

Its a very minor problem and most tuners should fix it for free. I've never been charged for a minor adjustment.

While im here Advan_01 - i'll get back to you about the tyres during the week, they are at a mates place and i cant remember the diameter of them

Hi Guys

Wondering if any of u guys actually had this problem before. Got my car tuned(Pow FC) about 2 weeks ago. I realised my engine check light starts flashing from 5000rpm to 6500rpm on 3rd and once in a while 2nd. Checked my knock readings which is about 80+ and that explains why the engine check light flashes. BUT this dont happen all the time, sometimes i get knock readings like an average of 25 which is very good at high revs on 3rd.

Q1) Why is my knock reading off by so much at high revs and shouldnt it be roughly the same?

Q2) Should I pull some timing out?

Chances are it will have to do with intake air temps usually from heat soak of the intercooler while sitting in traffic with minimal air flow over the element. It may also happen in taller gears as the accelleration rate of the car slows with more speed on board. Manufacturers get around this by using a vehicle speed based spark retard map - aka V8 AU falcon.

Try to establish when it occurs ie. transient throttle, in traffic driving, highway driving, what is the ambient temps like, fuel quality etc etc.

Chances are it will have to do with intake air temps usually from heat soak of the intercooler while sitting in traffic with minimal air flow over the element. It may also happen in taller gears as the accelleration rate of the car slows with more speed on board. Manufacturers get around this by using a vehicle speed based spark retard map - aka V8 AU falcon.

Try to establish when it occurs ie. transient throttle, in traffic driving, highway driving, what is the ambient temps like, fuel quality etc etc.

ambient temp is about 25, running BP ultimate, no traffic. And how do i solve the problem?

ambient temp is about 25, running BP ultimate, no traffic. And how do i solve the problem?

Sounds like a fairly normal driving situation so I would be more enclined to retard the actual ignition timing in the IGN map at the load and rpm it occurs than to change any temperature based compensations.

ambient temp is about 25, running BP ultimate, no traffic. And how do i solve the problem?

Take it back to the tuner and tell him under what conditions (throttle position (full, 1/2, 3/4), air temp etc) it knocks.

It may knock for example when you jump on the throttle at 5000rpm or it may only knock when loading up a high gear up a hill.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so will run the piping over that radiator and no plenum it is. Put that money towards a Haltech and see what suits. Any ideas something like an elite 2000 or 2500 right? My long term goal is 300kw e85 and manual swap and that’s a dream come true. For now will be 200kw and auto the stock rb25det neo intake isn’t too expensive with throttle body. If I was to have the port matching done, Would that be better than the stock de intake as the det has bigger holes plus has the spots for sensors etc? And suit more long term?  appreciate the advice?   
    • You understand AFR is not the only thing that contributes to it pinging yeah? Funnily, what the AFR gauge will tell you when it likely is pinging, is going to make you think things are really safe and good.
    • Run the piping how we all have for decades. Also the duel runners with the +T setup dramatically helps it gets on boost quicker. Yes, chase huge power it'll become a problem, but you're a long way off when you're already saying an aftermarket ECU is out of the budget. You also say NisTune as it's simple, and then immediately say it'll be painful, meaning... It won't be simple. It will likely cost you a lot more stuffing around with a Nistune, than just putting a Haltech or similar in.
    • I’ll order an afr gauge to keep an eye on it.  Then will get a haltech soon 
    • TD05 or maybe pulsar PSR2867r Gen 2?  id love a garret but it’s quite out the budget for now and I’m not chasing crazy power.    yeh fuel pump haven’t looked into but whatever works, kind of last on my list.    Nistune because it’s simple but Ik it’s a lot of pain especially as I’m auto +t with the whole seperate TCM etc still investigating that. Haltech id love but once budget tight for now atleast.    finally the reason I’m trying for a plenum instead of the stock intake is I already have a standard Intercooler mounted etc. so the ports are on both sides so trying to not have to go over the clutch fan radiator etc. trying to find a good deal return flow if I don’t than this will do for now I guess. btw any ideas with that, apparently some people have to cut blades to reduce it from hitting the Intercooler piping over the radiator ? Thanks 
×
×
  • Create New...