Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good Drifter? Whats its service history like ?

Cheers,

Dave

to be honest mate i couldnt really tell ya cause i dont drive around to drift or anything much..

the car has been serviced by my uncle who is a mechanic so it has been looked after well

to be honest mate i couldnt really tell ya cause i dont drive around to drift or anything much..

the car has been serviced by my uncle who is a mechanic so it has been looked after well

Do you find it hard to drive on the street? How long has the diff been locked for? Is it on the stock axle?

Sorry for all the questons dude im just trying to sus it out

Do you find it hard to drive on the street? How long has the diff been locked for? Is it on the stock axle?

Sorry for all the questons dude im just trying to sus it out

suprisingly there is not much difference to driving with a locker

like when you go around a sharpish corner you get a little skiddish/clunk but there is nothing majorly different to a normal axle

its been locked since i got it..im assuming its on the original axle

nah the questions are fine..id be doing the same thing

the only other things with the car is the horn has cut out recently..i think its a simple wiring thing but ive been so busy with work i havent had the time to look at it

and with the coil overs being fair low sometimes the springs give a little thump but its due to the high of it.. easily fixed by raising the adjustables..

so thats about it with the car

i need to sell soonish as you could understand due to the rego coming up soon

so have a think and let me know what your thinking..cheers mate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...