Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys gals,

i have just sold my R32 gtst and now am thinking of stepping into a gts4 r32. THing is i am quite clueless when it comes to inspecting these cars in terms of the driveline (body and engine i presume would be same for any r32 gtst) what are some things i should know about when looking at a r32 gts4? this is in terms of the actual attessa system itself(driveline). Oh by the way the one i have in mind is auto too.

thankyou.

In terms of ATTESSA, theres not a great deal that you can check. Copious amounts of rear wheel spin, with no real power going to the front can be a a sign of worn clutch packs in the transfer carrier.

Power "surging" between the front and rear under acceleration, or hard cornering.

Other than that all you can do is test drive it, and talk to the owner...

...but dont buy an auto pls

y is that?

is this because they are seriously gutless with the added weight etc?

my last skyline was auto rwd coupe, and i like my skylines auto :)

nope nothing to do with power or weight, im quite sure that the difference between man or auto is negligable. i just like to have more controll over the power output, being able to rev til you want or dont want, and just have a better feel of driving your car :) i think to have such a beautifull car in auto is a waste >_<

ohh one more thing,

does anyone actualli own a gts4 auto? hows fuel consumption same as a auto gtst r32? and performance, like seat of pants feel is it good/decent?

finally, is attessa on gts4's tough and durable, so should i expect things to break anytime now?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
×
×
  • Create New...