Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

have you looked under the oil filler cap? check to see if there's any mayo type looking sttuf, which could indicate a blown head/head gasket etc. also check the hoses around the sprayed area for crack etc.

but as para said, give it a clean and see if it comes back.'

steve

p.s refer to the cum stains thread for cleaning

Edited by PHATR32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121896-wtf-is-this/#findComment-2248220
Share on other sites

have you looked under the oil filler cap? check to see if there's any mayo type looking sttuf, which could indicate a blown head/head gasket etc. also check the hoses around the sprayed area for crack etc.

but as para said, give it a clean and see if it comes back.'

steve

p.s refer to the cum stains thread for cleaning

Hmm blown head, dont like the sound of that!!!

I havent cleaned it yet, its off the road until the new turbo goes on because it needs tuning and i cant afford to tune before AND after the turbo goes on :dry:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121896-wtf-is-this/#findComment-2248356
Share on other sites

well, check the oil cap anyways. and the radiator cap etc.

Yeh they are fine... might have to look further when i get it tuned

I really really hope head is fine, i was going to put metal head gasket in,

but thought i'd do that later when i rebuild it all.

thanks mate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121896-wtf-is-this/#findComment-2248452
Share on other sites

check the coolant lines that run through the throttle body, looks like one of them could be the culprit.

Cheers

Ill post another pic, where i think it could be coming from (just based on the directionality of the spray)

Its slightly greeny so i was thinking coolant

Anyway here is the pic

post-24130-1150087284.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121896-wtf-is-this/#findComment-2248510
Share on other sites

I'm guessing its the air pressure release bolt (not sure about the formal name) for the cooling system. Not sure where it is on the RB25s but on the RB20 it is near there and I didn't tighten mine up properly when I flushed out the system and when it got hot you could see small drops of coolant leak out.

Check that along with the coolant lines running through the throttle body as someone else suggested.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121896-wtf-is-this/#findComment-2248517
Share on other sites

I'm guessing its the air pressure release bolt (not sure about the formal name) for the cooling system. Not sure where it is on the RB25s but on the RB20 it is near there and I didn't tighten mine up properly when I flushed out the system and when it got hot you could see small drops of coolant leak out.

Check that along with the coolant lines running through the throttle body as someone else suggested.

Thanks

ill check it out tomorrow

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121896-wtf-is-this/#findComment-2248527
Share on other sites

ah thats a better pic. on the other pic it looked like mayo etc. forget the blown head gasket theory.

that looks like dried coolant, so yeah, defently check those spots with the arrows.

steve

Yay head is OK!!!

Yeh its like dried coolant, not spoof!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121896-wtf-is-this/#findComment-2248576
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...