Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

Does anyone know:

1) what size bulbs are behind main dash for speedo, fuel, water temp and tacho? and how many?

2) what size bulbs are behind the centre meter cluster? and how many?

3) what size bulbs are behind the aircon unit? and how many?

4) also are they bulbs you can simply replace by popping out the bulb and putting in a new one? note: I mean popping it out of the holder and putting purely a bulb back into the old holder.

Someone has said that they are T6.5 bulbs, but the actual T5 glass bulb part can fit into a T6.5 bulb holder.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143272-er34-gtt-lights-behind-dash/
Share on other sites

im pretty sure the main cluster globes and the triple gauge cluster are t-5, but i modified mine to t-10

attached are picks of the globes from the climate control unit. i dont know the size but they are tiny. i modified them also to fit small LEDs in there.

post-1416-1163655118.jpg

post-1416-1163655147.jpg

post-1416-1163655185.jpg

post-1416-1163655228.jpg

post-1416-1163655265.jpg

it was a while ago i did this, but im pretty sure ther are six globes in total on the climate control unit. in the pic attached you have to also unscrew the section i have put a line around(it is tricky because of the hot/cold dial and the surrounding plastic) and the other thre globes are inside that section.

thanks

Justin

post-1416-1163656023.jpg

walkoau: any idea how many T5/T6.5 bulbs needed in the main dash? and the centre cluster?

Is it 4 for the main dash and 3 in the centre gauges?

Thanks

yep 4 in main cluster and 3 in triple gauge cluster, but i modified mine so i got 6 in my cluster.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
    • Yeah, all good ...got your postal addy as well ; I'll box the stuff in the next couple of weeks, you can paypal me later..
    • Hello! I had a mid life crisis on a budget and coincided with the R34s being legal in the USA. And now I am here, with it having old car problems and me slowly hoarding parts to start building it to what I envision. Essentially I made a mistake, that lead me to join this forum filled with legends.
×
×
  • Create New...