Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

my mate has a microtech LT-12s with plug and play for his R33, he is getting rid of it due top selling the car. However, i want to take it off his hands....but can this unit fit my rb20det? is the loom different? etc?

what would i need to make it...diff wiring loom? etc?

also what kind of price second hand should they be going for?

THANKS GUYS

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146048-which-microtech/
Share on other sites

you will need to swap two injector wires over (might even be able to do it in the software).

because the LT12S is full sequential you will have to change them, if you run group injection you will not even have to do that, but lose the benefit of full sequential.

look in the powerFC FAQ and its the same injectors you have to swap as you do when you use the Rb25 PowerFC on the RB20.

i can look it up if you get stuck, but yes, it will work on the RB20DET with a small wiring mod.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146048-which-microtech/#findComment-2727839
Share on other sites

Yeah you'll need to swap the wires. Injectors #4 and #6 are switched between RB20 and RB25.

Is it the guy who wouldn't do COD to me?

Its worth $1250 for the unit, about $250 for the plug. Thats a little cheaper than retail, but thats what you can get stuff for if you shop around.

So second hand, $1100 is a good price... just not good enough that I'll deposit it into a randoms account before I see some goods, lol.

One issue I'm worried about with the plug in option, is loss of HICAS and A/C control etc. If you wire it in yourself using the loom, you can let the microtech control injectors and ignition, with inputs from TPS, CAS, water temp and MAP, then let the stock do the rest.

If you remove the stock ECU completely... your microtech will have to take care of the other stuff. Hit your tuner up about that one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146048-which-microtech/#findComment-2728067
Share on other sites

Its two wires.... which you just swap over... I think thats easier than sending back to microtech...

anyway, can you tell us more about the microtech's ability to take care of things like AC and HICAS when the stock ECU is removed completely? Or doesn't the stock ECU effect these things??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146048-which-microtech/#findComment-2728938
Share on other sites

Its two wires.... which you just swap over... I think thats easier than sending back to microtech...

anyway, can you tell us more about the microtech's ability to take care of things like AC and HICAS when the stock ECU is removed completely? Or doesn't the stock ECU effect these things??

the microtech contols the air con or idle air & stuff like thermos etc

you can also run a 2 step off it

but you will need to let microtech know when you order to customize it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146048-which-microtech/#findComment-2731318
Share on other sites

Thanks mate. I'm currently after a second hand one, so I guess I'll just assume that if someone else was running it in a street car and have no idea what I'm talking about when I ask how they controlled their a/c and shit... they probably had it all taken care of by the tuner and its already been sorted.

Just not keen to grab a plug and play, then suddenly get stalling problems when I use the A/C.

Almost seems like cheating just plugging it in, lol, I'm excited.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146048-which-microtech/#findComment-2731833
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...