Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

New n1 turbos for gtr and power fc with hand controler

location is on the gold coast

reason for selling im upgrading to a massive single turbo and a link computer

price $2000 for the n1s and $900 for the power fc or you can have both for $2700 i am open to offers

turbos come with brand new 3inch stainless dump pipes and come with all the lines and both manifolds

will have some pics up in a couple of dayz

contact me on 0410189246 ...... ask for luke

..........................................................ALSO OTHER PARTS AVAILABLE.......................................................................

.....

.......................................price drop..............................................

Edited by turbobmw
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146834-new-n1-turbos-and-power-fc/
Share on other sites

whats the serial number on the turbo's?

hey bro pulling the turbos off tomorrow can tell you then ........if you build it , they will come ......amen to that

Edited by turbobmw
yeas... R34 N1s are Ball bearing.

and bigger

EDIT:

BNR32 (NISMO)......Serial No. 14411-06U00 (F/M273 deg. plain thrust bearing centre)

T04B Compressor with a 0.42 A/R and 62T

T25 Turbine with a 0.64 A/R and CD79

BCNR33 (N1)......Serial No. 14411-24U10 (F/M360 deg. plain thrust bearing centre)

T3 Compressor with a 0.42 A/R and 55T

T25 Turbine with a 0.64 A/R and 62T

Included this for information...all R34 GTR's are Ball bearing turbo's...all previous models are only plain bearing.

BNR34 ......Serial No. 14411-AA300 (Ball bearing centre)

C100 Compressor with a 0.53 A/R and 50T

T25 Turbine with a 0.48 A/R and 62T

BNR34 (N1)......Serial No. 14411-AA401 (Ball bearing centre)

BNR34 (N1)......Serial No. 14411-AA402 (Ball bearing centre)

BNR34 (N1)......Serial No. 14411-AA403 (Ball bearing centre)

C106 Compressor with a 0.60 A/R and 55T

GT25 Turbine with a 0.64 A/R and 62T

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...