Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

can somone please help me, i posted a few days ago but no one seemed to know anything as there was no reply!

i have taken the bottome end of my motor apart with the head still intact on a engine stand with the intention of replacing the big end bearings and main bearings and thrust washer and the oil pump also. everything is appart. bearings have worn a little but i guess you would expet that with 100,000 kms and a heavy foot for a least 40,000 :happy:

there a no deep scores in the bearings just slight wear (coulor) and the crank looks perfect, it will be getting crack tested and the journals looked at to be positive that its fine.

my problem is that when i spoke to nissan and tried to order bearings the told me when ordering standard bearings i need to cheak markings on the crank and main and con rod caps and compare this to a chart and work out the grade i need for each bearing. they faxed me a graph but its in japanese and i cant make any sense of it.

PLEASE SOMEONE HELP ME!!!!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160421-rb25-engine-bearings/
Share on other sites

when you buy the acl bearings.... standard size not oversize i think its the same as nissan, they grade the bearings depending on the markings... think it may have somthing to do with balance or the exact circumference of the journal.. i dunno, all i know is when you buy a standard bearing you need to know if its a garde 1,2 or 3??

wel nissan have told me i need a grade of bearing, those markings on the front end of the crank on the conrod caps, on the side of the con rod, on your main caps.... they are there apparently for bearing grades. i know if i get the crank machined to 10thou oversize i can just order a set of 10 thou oversize bearings... but there is nothing at all wrong with my crank. anyone else have any idea?

yeah i spoke to the head mechanic of marooka nissan service and he suggested that because he couldnt tell me over the phone... said he would have to look at it. it just seems like such a pain in the arse to get it there... its all in parts... the head is still on the block... its upside down on a engine stand. plus i have to get time off work to make it there!!!

i really thought i could just pull it apart and replace the bearings like any other motor.... this SUCKS!!!!!

king bearings and linised crank for $300? so who did it and did you just send them a crank and they linish it and give you bearings that will fit?

Nepean Engines in Penrith.

took the crank to them, 2 days later got it back with new bearings and lynished . i think though that the mains are another brand not king come to mention it, as he said that the main force is on teh big ends not the main bearings, this is for a 300rwkw power goal which he knew about.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...