Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know the gtr ones are bigger than gtst ones so are these the bigger size axle ,I thought the gts4 axles would've been the same size as the gtst?

Yep these are the stronger 31spline 6x1 bolt axles.

The GTS4 drive line is pretty much identical to that of the GTR apart from the diff ratio being slightly lower at 4.375:1 vs the gtr's 4.11 to help the poor ol' rb20 lug that 1550kg's around. :huh:

Unsure if gearbox ratio's differ.

Do correct me if I'm wrong though. A mates GTS4 follows this suit and its also what I've been told by a couple of wreckers.

I priced up the gtr axles a little while back. I remember the average price wanted was $175 each axle so 300 total. I will double check tomorrow just to be sure I'm selling these for a reasonable price.

I have a Z31 centre and have fitted a LSD 1.5 way R32 Centre. I just now need to find half shafts and axles to fit it all. My current axles are only like 28 or 29 teeth on the spline and are not long enough. Would it be the "R32 GTR GTS4 31spline 6bolt Axles" or the other items you are selling that would best suit my needs?

Actually, looking at it, I think i need the input shafts you have for sale and also the axles.

$200 + postage for all items?

Would be to Green Point on the Central Coast, NSW.

Cheers,

Mike

Edited by Regina

The 31spline half shafts I have are to suit a VLSD center. So the usual one long, one short half shaft.

I've been told (but never tried) that you can use 2 of the shorter half shafts from a vlsd center in a mechanical center. You would have to confirm.

The axles.. well they are just regular 6bolt 31spline axles. :kiss: $150 + postage for those. I had them for $200 + postage but dropped the price.

Unsure if the half shafts are suitable, you'll have to price up what you can get another half shaft for 'IF' it is possible that you can use the shorter half shaft from the 2 that I have.

Let me know if you are still interested and in what. I'll package the items up and grab a quote for postage.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...