Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I've had my car up for sale before but taken it back down, but it's back up for sale and this time for real :rofl:

For sale: 1993 Silvia Q's

Asking Price: $10,000

Killometer's: 179***

Manual or Automatic transmission: Manual

Engine Type: SR20DE

Modifications:

Exedy heavy duty clutch (organic), only just put it in

exhaust with extractors

pod filter

sound system (pioneer slide-down head deck, kicker splits in the front and 6" speakers on the parcel tray, with a 10" kicker competition sub in the boot, gives great massages, out-does my mates clarion 12's and the sq from the speakers is amazing

aftermarket HKS steering wheel

Saas shift knob

18" RS-GT rims from Ozzyracing, black with chrome lip

Mongoose M60 alarm with window lifters (optional extra, costs $700 to get it put in but i got it for $400 on top of the alarm and install, the install took the workshop a full day of work and i kept checking back in, they really were spending the whole day on it)

Complianced: Yes

Road Worth Certificate: Yes

Registration: Yes (march 09 2008)

Crash History: No major accidents, a few bumps and scrapes but nothing major, PM for more details if you need them or come have a look

Other Comment's about the vehicle: Car is in great condition, sounds awesome, washed every sunday and I give it a wax whenever i have the time. only ever used meguiars on the outside and armor all on the interior (seems to work better for the interior than meguiars and auto glym), car's also been serviced every 5000km, and the last 2 services were 2500km apart because we needed something to service at tafe and i couldnt turn down a free one :) the teacher did all the work and he's a fully qualified mechanic, i wouldnt let anyone else touch it :)

I also dont let anyone eat in the car, and only drinks allowed are bottled water.

Contact details: call or message me on 0411843249, if i dont answer just message me and say your calling about the car and i'll call you back as soon as i can, only reason i wont answer will be that i'm at work or tafe, or dont have my phone on me. Also email [email protected] or reply to this thread and i'll get back to you

Location: Shellharbour, NSW (It's about 15-20min south of Wollongong)

S5000122.jpg

S5000093.jpg

S5000105.jpg

S5000123.jpg

Edited by NVS13S
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161381-black-manual-sr20de-s13-nsw/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...