Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 118
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

mate just try this...... no ine ever said that the open throttle switch had to go on the throttle body...... they tried to tell us that too but we put it on the accelerator pedal under the dash way easy......and remember has to switch on at like 80-90% throttle not 100% like most ppl believe..... and a kind word of advice for ya..... dont ever jump on the gas while going slow or at low revs cause depending on how much gas etc u are running it will have a severe fit and a big backfire....... just my advice dude... your decision weather u use it or not as alot of ppl have varying ideas when it comes to nos.....cheers Jon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16695-nitrous-going-on/#findComment-343055
Share on other sites

Rev - I'm dying to see how you go - should be great.

Depending on how technical you want to go you could put a mirco switch on the gearstick so the nos is only activated when out of first gear. And if you really want to go all out, you could use a comparitor and 555 curcuit so the nos only activates over ~3500rpm, or just modify a shift light :P

Of course you'd have a normal on/off switch to stop the nos from going on at all.

That would make it a little 'easier' to drive.

Oh, and we want pics pics pics :(:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16695-nitrous-going-on/#findComment-343225
Share on other sites

Yep, the 12 will be without nitrous and stock turbo. As it stands my re-tune should have me on track for a 280rwhp instead of the 230rwhp odd at 4700rpm (9's afr). The extra power I have is plenty to push me over the line for a 12.9 ,even with the razor blade 205's.

The 50 shot , and I'm afraid wider tyres, should put me into low 12's, the 100 shot into 11's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16695-nitrous-going-on/#findComment-343640
Share on other sites

sorry,

That is relative to the particular dyno I went on. I'd say the stock turbo is still only 300 odd at the motor. The relative increase on that particular dyno to 280HP based on fixing afr and ping issue.

To put it another way: I'll have over 350HP at the engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16695-nitrous-going-on/#findComment-344334
Share on other sites

INASNT,

know my way around nitrous. The 100HP of nitrous is fine, just as fine as a 100HP increase with a hiflow turbo. As long as the engine internals can handle the extra power --- regardless of what provides it. The nitrous has the added benifit of correct mixture out of the box Vs new turbo that requires re-map and larger injectors etc.

As I said earlier the 50 shot is for starters, to get things sorted nicely.

The purge kit would be a good idea if I was racing and had a 250HP or so direct port. Keeps the lines 'liquified'. little power shots like mine don't need it.

Bottle warmers are good in cold weather, for the most part Perth is hot enough (except some parts of winter) to go without one.

Driving on the street with it?

No, I can't do that! Thats illegal in W.A.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16695-nitrous-going-on/#findComment-345313
Share on other sites

INASNT,

the system will be in the car (lines solenoids etc...) except the bottle.

The EFI kit has a preset mixture, just change the jet. The engine tuning is basic... Retard the ignition, add a little extra fuel and shift gears 500rpm odd lower than normal (the torque increase is massive).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16695-nitrous-going-on/#findComment-345406
Share on other sites

That's not exactly "tuning" it, is it? :D

Yes, the neatest way is to use an auxillary output as a secondary arming switch, instead of a microswitch on the throttle body/accelerator pedal... Makes it much more stealthy :)

But as rev210 said, with a wet system, the fogger gives perfect fuel for the nitrous shot, so no extra "tuning" is required with a small 50-100 shot.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16695-nitrous-going-on/#findComment-346162
Share on other sites

mallory I think make a nitrous rev controller. you just put in two 'pills' one lower rev range and one upper rev range and it arms the throttle pos switch based on the rpms being within the specified range.

Things like that are kind of like turbo timers, you don't need them but if your a member of AA they are helpfull.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16695-nitrous-going-on/#findComment-346529
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
    • lights are on just the one click.  
    • Absolutely matters because, while a temperature change will eventually reach a sensor at the end of a static line, the response time is far far far too slow to be useful. Might as well not have a temp gauge at all.
    • When I was eyeing off the 370GT (after deciding I didn't want to spend 30-40k+ to relive my early 20s in an R33) I thought it'd be a good project to add a turbo to it. Now that I have a 370GT, and I've had a couple of chances to open it up, I'm pretty stunned by how much power it makes 🫠 Honestly, the way the VVEL opens it up, it almost feels like there's a little turbo tucked away in there somewhere. It's like Nissan looked at VTEC and said "hold my beer" 😁 Has anyone thrown a turbo into their 370Z or 370GT? Is there a conservative boost level you can run without having to upgrade the fuel system, or are bigger injectors and a bigger pump a given?
×
×
  • Create New...