Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 118
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

mate just try this...... no ine ever said that the open throttle switch had to go on the throttle body...... they tried to tell us that too but we put it on the accelerator pedal under the dash way easy......and remember has to switch on at like 80-90% throttle not 100% like most ppl believe..... and a kind word of advice for ya..... dont ever jump on the gas while going slow or at low revs cause depending on how much gas etc u are running it will have a severe fit and a big backfire....... just my advice dude... your decision weather u use it or not as alot of ppl have varying ideas when it comes to nos.....cheers Jon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16695-nitrous-going-on/#findComment-343055
Share on other sites

Rev - I'm dying to see how you go - should be great.

Depending on how technical you want to go you could put a mirco switch on the gearstick so the nos is only activated when out of first gear. And if you really want to go all out, you could use a comparitor and 555 curcuit so the nos only activates over ~3500rpm, or just modify a shift light :P

Of course you'd have a normal on/off switch to stop the nos from going on at all.

That would make it a little 'easier' to drive.

Oh, and we want pics pics pics :(:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16695-nitrous-going-on/#findComment-343225
Share on other sites

Yep, the 12 will be without nitrous and stock turbo. As it stands my re-tune should have me on track for a 280rwhp instead of the 230rwhp odd at 4700rpm (9's afr). The extra power I have is plenty to push me over the line for a 12.9 ,even with the razor blade 205's.

The 50 shot , and I'm afraid wider tyres, should put me into low 12's, the 100 shot into 11's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16695-nitrous-going-on/#findComment-343640
Share on other sites

sorry,

That is relative to the particular dyno I went on. I'd say the stock turbo is still only 300 odd at the motor. The relative increase on that particular dyno to 280HP based on fixing afr and ping issue.

To put it another way: I'll have over 350HP at the engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16695-nitrous-going-on/#findComment-344334
Share on other sites

INASNT,

know my way around nitrous. The 100HP of nitrous is fine, just as fine as a 100HP increase with a hiflow turbo. As long as the engine internals can handle the extra power --- regardless of what provides it. The nitrous has the added benifit of correct mixture out of the box Vs new turbo that requires re-map and larger injectors etc.

As I said earlier the 50 shot is for starters, to get things sorted nicely.

The purge kit would be a good idea if I was racing and had a 250HP or so direct port. Keeps the lines 'liquified'. little power shots like mine don't need it.

Bottle warmers are good in cold weather, for the most part Perth is hot enough (except some parts of winter) to go without one.

Driving on the street with it?

No, I can't do that! Thats illegal in W.A.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16695-nitrous-going-on/#findComment-345313
Share on other sites

INASNT,

the system will be in the car (lines solenoids etc...) except the bottle.

The EFI kit has a preset mixture, just change the jet. The engine tuning is basic... Retard the ignition, add a little extra fuel and shift gears 500rpm odd lower than normal (the torque increase is massive).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16695-nitrous-going-on/#findComment-345406
Share on other sites

That's not exactly "tuning" it, is it? :D

Yes, the neatest way is to use an auxillary output as a secondary arming switch, instead of a microswitch on the throttle body/accelerator pedal... Makes it much more stealthy :)

But as rev210 said, with a wet system, the fogger gives perfect fuel for the nitrous shot, so no extra "tuning" is required with a small 50-100 shot.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16695-nitrous-going-on/#findComment-346162
Share on other sites

mallory I think make a nitrous rev controller. you just put in two 'pills' one lower rev range and one upper rev range and it arms the throttle pos switch based on the rpms being within the specified range.

Things like that are kind of like turbo timers, you don't need them but if your a member of AA they are helpfull.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16695-nitrous-going-on/#findComment-346529
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...