Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Stock Brake Rotors (RB25DET)

benm
 Share

Recommended Posts

benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
Posted

I have a set of 4 brake rotors for sale which came off a 1995 Nissan Skyline R33 RB25DET.

* My reason for selling is I have just upgraded to the new DBA Rotors.

* These are the original stock rotors which have done 72,000km.

* They were last machined about 5mths ago and are in good condition.

* Pics available at:

http://skylines.pnc.com.au/pics/ben/rotor/rotor7.jpg

http://skylines.pnc.com.au/pics/ben/rotor/rotor8.jpg

* I have no idea what they are worth and im not too technically minded (as far as what they will/won't fit) so go easy...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17685-r33-stock-brake-rotors-rb25det/
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I bought the DBA's in the recent group buy and i think they cost me like $900ish fitted for front n back.

I haven't noticed any difference with them for a couple of reasons...

I only did 300km on the new DBA's before hitting them way -too- hard at a trackday resulting in glazing them and giving em a wash in brake fluid :P . So after that trackday I got new fluid put in and my brake pedal just doesnt even feel normal let alone better from the DBA's so i think i need to get them looked at again (in about 2wks before i hit the next trackday).

Really though i dont think in normal street driving you will feel a difference i bought them purely for that little bit extra at trackdays (which im yet to notice because of above and coz my tyres are bald).

  • 4 weeks later...
JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted

You'd have to measure them with calipers to get any indication of how much they're worth. Near-new I would say they'd be worth maybe $200 the pair machined (machined because without doing that there's no way to determine their thickness with any accuracy), or if worn down below the halfway point maybe $100 the pair? New rotors are 30mm thick, and the run-out point is 28mm.

Unfortunately there's no way to tell how much they've been worn just by stating the odometer reading. The amount of wear they've had will be largely dependant on driving style and type of pads used, and for all you know they could be the 2nd or 3rd set of rotors used on the car (entirely possible if the car had done any trackwork in Japan).

If you've been running the Ultimates on them since they got machined 5 months ago, you might find they're up for machining again.

  • 5 weeks later...
benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Measurements are:

Front Left: 28.20mm

Front Right: 28.98mm

Rear Left: 17.67mm

Rear Right: 16.50mm

I believe they are good for 1 more machining but do not need to be machined yet (surface is very smooth).

$200 for all 4 pickup

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Looking for someone with a R34 front bar

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • GTSBoy
      Most women will agree that parking is the most taxing part of driving

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • GTSBoy
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • GTSBoy
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...