Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Got a 1996 model GTS-T M spec for sale

First Ausralian owner

-ABS

- 17 inch Deep dish rims (17x9 rears 17x8 fronts)

- Front and Rear Strut Braces

- Adjustable Coilovers

- Front Mount Intercooler

- 3' Split dump and Front pipe

- 3" cat converter

- 3.5' Cat back exhuast

- Ms Air flow resetter

- Boost Guage

- HKS Turbo Timer

- Aftermarket Clutch

- Aftermarket Mongoose Alarm System with all Sensors (microwave/glassbrake/shock/Tilt)

-Aftermarket Cd and Minidisc player

- Aftermarket speakers

- Full 100,000km service done at 98,000km with 'racing spec' timing belt (silicon)

- Serviced every 5000km using motul oil

- Falkien Tyres in very good condition (255's on rear, 235s on front)

Located in Coffs harbour area, car will be down in newcastle occasionally (pm/email me for details)

price is $15,500 ONO mail me with offers/questions

Contact: Mitch

email: [email protected]

Phone: 0412 591 820

or PM

Pics can be viewed on caresales

http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...matchallpartial

I'll post photos on here ASAP (more photos other than carsales ones are avilable on request

Feel free to post comments about car here.

thanks

mitch

Edit:can someone who checks the link to photos let me know that it works (goes straight to the car)

Edit: added new photos to this post

post-14770-1186642301_thumb.jpg

post-14770-1186642326_thumb.jpg

post-14770-1186642345_thumb.jpg

post-14770-1186642367_thumb.jpg

post-14770-1186642381_thumb.jpg

post-14770-1186642426_thumb.jpg

Edited by ZiiN
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179787-sold/
Share on other sites

thanks ill take some more photos tomorrow and upload them on here...

$15,500 ono if SAU is mentioned (just because carsales is shit)

there is a few of the carsales ones attached to here... will get ones in full light tomorrow

very very tidy car

post-14770-1186486512_thumb.jpg

post-14770-1186486544_thumb.jpg

post-14770-1186486585_thumb.jpg

Edited by ZiiN
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179787-sold/#findComment-3274663
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...