Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have just got a profec b2 and i installed it onto my r33 gtst, now i am having problems as it doesnt want to stop boosting at all. I have checked the boost lines and none of them are kinked. i am not sure which way the filter for the boost line into the back of the unit is supposed to be? and also the wires running from the black booster that connects to the intake and actuator the wires for the clip on the back of the unit in the car were off and im not sure which way they are supposed to be? could someone please help?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192533-profec-b2/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hey guys, jst a quick question....

I know in the instructions a clicking sound is normal while the solenoid vavle is operating but how loud is it meant to be? i can hear it quite easily from inside the cabin...

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192533-profec-b2/#findComment-3566423
Share on other sites

While on the topic - with that hose that comes out the back of the main unit... would that T off into one of the hoses off the back of the plenum? or would it be better to disconnect the stock boost gauge hose off the back of the plenum and connect that hose straight into the back of the plenum?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192533-profec-b2/#findComment-3566518
Share on other sites

Hey guys, jst a quick question....

I know in the instructions a clicking sound is normal while the solenoid vavle is operating but how loud is it meant to be? i can hear it quite easily from inside the cabin...

Cheers

Make sure you rubber mount it, I just put piece of rubber of an old bike tube between the soleniod and bodywork.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192533-profec-b2/#findComment-3566537
Share on other sites

I just T'd it into one of the hoses coming of the plenum.

As for the clicking, it shouldn't be that loud. However this shouldn't mean it is faulty. You may just have a loud unit.

Dunno, i spsoe you could take it back and try another one?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192533-profec-b2/#findComment-3566749
Share on other sites

Im not overly concerned about it as its not affecting anything, just was wondering if they are all that loud. I do have it rubber mounted so that shouldnt be a problem. And it does say that a clicking noise is normal so im not going to stress bout it too much...

thanks for your replies tho!

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192533-profec-b2/#findComment-3566963
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...