Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have just got a profec b2 and i installed it onto my r33 gtst, now i am having problems as it doesnt want to stop boosting at all. I have checked the boost lines and none of them are kinked. i am not sure which way the filter for the boost line into the back of the unit is supposed to be? and also the wires running from the black booster that connects to the intake and actuator the wires for the clip on the back of the unit in the car were off and im not sure which way they are supposed to be? could someone please help?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192533-profec-b2/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hey guys, jst a quick question....

I know in the instructions a clicking sound is normal while the solenoid vavle is operating but how loud is it meant to be? i can hear it quite easily from inside the cabin...

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192533-profec-b2/#findComment-3566423
Share on other sites

While on the topic - with that hose that comes out the back of the main unit... would that T off into one of the hoses off the back of the plenum? or would it be better to disconnect the stock boost gauge hose off the back of the plenum and connect that hose straight into the back of the plenum?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192533-profec-b2/#findComment-3566518
Share on other sites

Hey guys, jst a quick question....

I know in the instructions a clicking sound is normal while the solenoid vavle is operating but how loud is it meant to be? i can hear it quite easily from inside the cabin...

Cheers

Make sure you rubber mount it, I just put piece of rubber of an old bike tube between the soleniod and bodywork.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192533-profec-b2/#findComment-3566537
Share on other sites

I just T'd it into one of the hoses coming of the plenum.

As for the clicking, it shouldn't be that loud. However this shouldn't mean it is faulty. You may just have a loud unit.

Dunno, i spsoe you could take it back and try another one?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192533-profec-b2/#findComment-3566749
Share on other sites

Im not overly concerned about it as its not affecting anything, just was wondering if they are all that loud. I do have it rubber mounted so that shouldnt be a problem. And it does say that a clicking noise is normal so im not going to stress bout it too much...

thanks for your replies tho!

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192533-profec-b2/#findComment-3566963
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...