Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

soo a few questions...

here is where i am at...

atm the car has:

-full 3 inch exhaust turbo back split dump

-bosch 040 fuel pump (re-wired)

-adjustable fuel pressure regulator

-fmic using stock piping.

-pod filter

-gfb plumb back and atmo bov

-boost control (bleed valve)

-mv stage 2 shift kit (going in soon)

-drift catch can

-other silly little things like engine damper, turbo timer etc.

-the rest is stock (stock injectors, turbo, internals etc)

now i have a greddy emanage ultimate sitting here and want to put it in and go for a tune in the next few weeks.

my main question is what would be better for me? a z32 afm or the pressure sensor that can be bought for the emu or will the stock afm cope?

i am aimnig for just over 200rwkw maybe 220rwkw (completly street driven) or so as i know the stock injectors max out around 230rwkw (some ppl have got higher but dont want to push them too much)

ive read that with the sensor i will loose tuning points? but the fact is a pressure sensor is about $180 a zf2 is about $300ish..

what way do you guys think i should go? is there anything else i should do before the tune aside from, oil change, plugs etc? would aftermarket fmic piping make much of a difference?

the plan down the track is to get bigger injectors and turbo and retune so keep that in mind.

thanks alot :P

Edited by stenve
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195693-afm-or-pressure-sensor/
Share on other sites

I suggest asking whoever you want to tune the car, as to which method they prefer to tune, MAF or MAP. You wont be able to tell the differnce driving the car, but the tuner will have a prefered method to tune on no doubt.

go MAP if your not going to take long drives that vary in altitude much o/wise go MAF

problem with maps is that the ecu takes a base reading of the manifold pressure at startup to take an atmospheric datum and its tunes are based on that.

If your going on long drives up a few mountains and havent turned your car off since starting it your car will soon start playing silly buggers. Some notice some dont

Edited by Jmaac

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...