Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i've just purchased myself a r33 gtr and havent been happier, but now im starting to have a few problems related to the boost.

every so often the car will be running full boost (near the 7 on stock gauge) and suddenly it would just drop down to just over 3 and stay there and wont go back to normal.

it has me stumped and really starting to get to me. last thing i want is problems on a new car i've just bought.

its a stock gtr with a cat back exhaust, pods and a pair of bovs.

ive checked all the cooling pipes and lines

no smoke blowing out exhaust or oil in cooler lines

checked the cat

changed the fuel filter

put a hks evc 5 in and got rid of standard boost control(which boost line is the in and out also?? the one with the yellow line)

and i still cant fix the boost problem

any help would be much appreciated thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203639-gtr-boost-problems/
Share on other sites

hey guys i've just purchased myself a r33 gtr and havent been happier, but now im starting to have a few problems related to the boost.

every so often the car will be running full boost (near the 7 on stock gauge) and suddenly it would just drop down to just over 3 and stay there and wont go back to normal.

it has me stumped and really starting to get to me. last thing i want is problems on a new car i've just bought.

its a stock gtr with a cat back exhaust, pods and a pair of bovs.

ive checked all the cooling pipes and lines

no smoke blowing out exhaust or oil in cooler lines

checked the cat

changed the fuel filter

put a hks evc 5 in and got rid of standard boost control(which boost line is the in and out also?? the one with the yellow line)

and i still cant fix the boost problem

any help would be much appreciated thanks

hey mate, im having the same probs with my gtst. read my post about it as what poeple have told me might help you also. let me know if you work it out, cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...