Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Opened the bonnet today after a good hill climb, and there was a tapping noise above cylinders 1 and 6.

Now my car (R33 gts-t) is stock apart from full exhaust and pod. My fuel economy is about 450+ km to the tank, and the engine/gearbox seems nice and tight.

HOWEVER the turbo is on its way out (has been whistling up high for some time now and its getting worse). I only noticed the tapping develop recently. Perhaps the turbo is chewing up oil and not enough is circulating to the head? I dunno, oil pressure doesn't seem particularly low. And no oil is being spit out of the intake manifold or anything like that.

I hope its not bearings - but the noise doesn't get louder when the car gets hotter or revs higher. I've listened to other engines with bearings going and the noise they made was REALLY irritating and got worse.

Help?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205612-tapping-on-1-and-6/
Share on other sites

tapping is generally head, which is nothing to worry about, lifters with age just get louder and i doubt you'll notice any difference

a spun bearing on the other hand is more of a knocking noise, they are very different. If it sounds like its coming just from the head then its unlikely to be a bearing.

Its also quite common on these to get noisy injectors aswell. My bros car (has 180000km on it, but REAL kms) and his stock injectors tap.

How many kms has it done? I would check the oil first, and give it a oil/filter change aswell. If you dont really know what your looking at, it might be worth your while to take it to a performance shop and get them to give it a once over. Its always hard to diagnose something like knocks and tap noises over the net, it could be anything

The car has 110,000 ks on it. Its going in for a major service, then straight after that looking at a new turbo setup, PFC, injectors, pump etc etc.

It definitely is coming from the head, I put my ear next to each cylinder and listened. I'm not particularly worried because the car seems to run otherwise fine but the major service should pick up anything wrong with it either way.

Thanks alot for the reply mate =)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 🫠    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
    • But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.
×
×
  • Create New...