Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Three questions about turbo rebuilds. Sorry if they have been answered previously but I did a search and could not find anything on the first couple of pages.

1. I know that you can't rebuild ball bearing turbos, but can you keep the old housing and put all new internals in? Even if this saved me only $50-100 on a new housing I think I would prefer to do this.

2. I don't know if my old turbo is sleeve or ball bearing. Does anyone know the rough price differences to rebuilding a sleeve bearing turbo and putting all new internals into an old housing, assuming question 1 is possible?

3. If there are no identifying marks on my old turbo, is there a way to find out what size the turbine and compressors are? Just for curiosity's sake, especially if I can rebuild it with the same wheels.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20699-turbo-rebuilds/
Share on other sites

With HKS turbos you need to buy the cartridge complete, then fit your own compressor and turbine housings - not too sure about putting the wheels you have on a garrett centre, sorry. A HKS cartridge expect to pay from about $1400 direct from japan.

Bush bearing rebuild kits are only a few hundered dollars by comparison, so alot cheaper.

As for identifying your turbo - wouldnt have a clue if its got no markings.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20699-turbo-rebuilds/#findComment-433867
Share on other sites

Tony, pm me details.

I don't know what I did to the turbo, it just gradually started making more and more noise over the past 6 months or so. The guys at Hills said it could be either the wastegate or turbo bearings, but I'm not losing any power so fingers crossed it's just the wastegate. I'm planning for worst case scenario regardless. He said the whole thing looked like a bodgy job so they might not have installed any of it properly.

Steve, the turbo is Garrett, is there something similar you can get for Garrett turbos? Whether locally or from Japan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20699-turbo-rebuilds/#findComment-433891
Share on other sites

How much does it cost to remove and replace a turbo? If it can be done in an hour, I'll pay that to have the old one put back in until I can find a replacement. But if it's a 4 hour job or more, then I'm in trouble.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20699-turbo-rebuilds/#findComment-434309
Share on other sites

You should give GCG a call. I too have a damaged HKS GT3037S ball bearing turbo, and was under the impression that BB turbos could not be repaired - until recently. My turbo have a damaged turbine wheel and I have talked to GCG and they said that they have repaired several (over 100) BB turbos in the past with 100% success rate. I am hoping to send my turbo to them (or Garrett in Sydney) soon to see if it can be repaired. There seems to be some hope in repairing BB turbos. The initial thoughts were that it wasn't possible to buy trims separately, but some companies have said that you can!? Not really sure, but I will send my turbo to Garrett (dealer in Australia) to see what they say. Hope it can be fixed...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20699-turbo-rebuilds/#findComment-434344
Share on other sites

Do you have a ballpark figure for how much they cost to repair? If it's over a grand, I'm tempted just to buy a near-new second hand unit for around $1k to save on delays on getting the car back on the road. But if it's only half that, then that sounds like a better option.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20699-turbo-rebuilds/#findComment-434353
Share on other sites

I did ask them for a rough quote but they won't quote you until you actually bring the turbo in. Then they'll strip the turbo down and see if it can be repaired, if it can be then they will give you an accurate quote.

They will however provide a free quote, and as you're in Sydney it would be worthwhile to drop the turbo in to GCG or even better Garrett to see if it can be repaired.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20699-turbo-rebuilds/#findComment-434378
Share on other sites

Originally posted by EVOIV

I guess you could measure the compressor and turbine trim to see what size they are? As for the A/R ratio, that's a bit more difficult :)

Hmm, I was lucky and found the AR ratio stamped onto the housing :) But you can also work out the AR ratio (roughly) by measuring the diameter of the intake and the distance from the middle of the turbo to the middle of the intake. Probably hard to do very precisely but good enough for a rough idea.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20699-turbo-rebuilds/#findComment-437920
Share on other sites

Ok, bit of an update.

Since the turbo is Garrett, I took it to Garrett in Chipping Norton. The guy there had a look and told me that the small side-to-side play was completely normal, and that the axial play was the only direction in which there should be no movement. He checked the housing for evidence of the wheels touching and there was none.

So he went to the wastegate, and found that at some point in the turbo's life someone had welded it shut. Presumably after they decided this was a bad idea they cut the weld off. But because of the welding dags still present on the pivot, it was sticking open and rattling around. I believe that this is the noise (it made the same noise I heard when he moved it around), so I asked them to fix it. I should get the turbo back on Wednesday.

He also said he could do a full rebuild for only $345 because it's a sleeve bearing turbo. While this is pretty cheap, I've decided that it only takes me a couple of hours to get the turbo off so I'll rebuild it when I start getting axial play in the bearing.

Now that I know how to check a turbo for wear, I'll include the check as part of my regular servicing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20699-turbo-rebuilds/#findComment-439049
Share on other sites

I think they make both types. The guy at the workshop knew at first glance that it was a sleeve bearing. Either way, I'm sold on sleeve bearings now. The price of rebuilding them is ridiculously cheap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20699-turbo-rebuilds/#findComment-439148
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...