Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as the tittle says my R33 is stalling at low revs when and after turning corners or coming to a corner.

i have observed that the battery light flashes when it is about to stall but thats about it. i dont think its my battery as its brand new and only the moter cuts out but when i start it again its fine. someone said it could be the alternator and the battery not charging propably, anotehr has told me ity could be the power steering over loading the moter and another said that it was the idle switch. anyone got any otehr ideas? because this is starting to become a pain.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211467-automatic-r33-stalling/
Share on other sites

Mate, its been 20 mins! Relax, someone will answer your question. The battery light always comes on when a car is about to stall. It has nothing todo with the battery, its just that the alternator isnt spinning fast enough, cos the revs are too low. Battery is fine, and you say that the car is starting fine, so I'd say the alternator would be fine as well. I dont think it would be the power steering, and possibly the idle switch. My mate had the same problem as this, and turns out the throttle body was open too much, letting in too much air, and stalling the engine. Might pay to have that one checked out. Otherwise try doing a diagnostic. Or convert it to manual :D

I have always been under the impression that if you can stall an auto, you're talented... :blink:

Good luck finding the problem though. Have you had a mechanic look at it?

oh its getting a conversion in the next few months lol,

the mechanic said it could be hundreds of things and that its better waiting till it shows real problems before pulling it apart to check.

Really? Did they even look at it? Sounds a bit dodgy to me! In the mean time, have you tried driving with two feet? That way you can rev the car up more before taking off ect to keep the revs up and prevent it from stalling. Or even shift manually?

My stag will stall occasionally as well. I just removed the factory BOV and put a block off plate in its place which has caused it to happen. Im thinking the ECU needs to be reset to it can learn how to deal with the air flow again but im too lazy to d/c the battery :)

I can tell you that it is your BOV.

How do i know this?? i learnt the lesson myself. you won't have the problem if you put the standard one back on.

It is called reversion.

REVERSION - Reversion occurs when some of the burned exhaust gases are pushed back into the combustion chamber and intake system during valve overlap. This is caused by exhaust manifold pressure exceeding intake pressure or by shock waves in the exhaust ports and manifolds.

  • 10 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thread bump, again! Although, no bad news this time. Posting for the sake of possible root cause. Basically, I rebuilt it (mostly stock), installed Haltech + sensors, had it running fine on new ECU.  Still not really understanding why it cracked pistons last time. Got to tuners, and while checking timing, noticed +-10deg of timing scatter while revving. Changed CAS, and it was rock solid. While not definitive, can't imagine seeing 20+ psi with that amount of scatter would be a good thing. Also glad I found something.   Bit more of a run down; Carried out a stock rebuild, a set of stock pistons, out of a spare bottom end. Everything stock apart from head studs and oil restrictors. (so I can pretend I didn't let the Nissan out, ha.) Armed with the measuring gear and FSM, set about doing overhaul. Oil restrictors as per oil control thread for a RB25, stock oil pump, drifting. Head drain/vent from rear of head, to passenger side of sump above oil level. Two dash 10 vent lines from drivers side of sump (unused atm) Hi octane style cam cover breather kit Splash covers over last 2 cam caps. Both breather lines from cam covers to vented to atmosphere catch can, not plumbed back into sump (wanted to see what it was actually breathing). Got it run in (did about a 1000km) no to low boost scenario, As I had questions over old ECU setup. Installed haltech +sensors for flex Retune on E85 (finding CAS Issue along the way), made 300rwkw at 20psi, out of wastegate. Did a drift day the next day (yes, it was a big weekend!) and was checking catch can throughout the day, ZERO blowby. I mean nothing. Lines from cam covers are not even wet. Done a bunch of street driving, spirited and catch can is still dry. Early days I guess, but pretty happy so far. Also now run 10w60, up from the 10w40 that I used to run. Oil pressure is significantly better, especially when hot (as you would expect)      
    • Thanks buddy. I thought it was a server storage thing. 🤣
    • Perfect! Thanks for this, both look like great options!
    • but deep down inside once you Skyline, you always Skyline
×
×
  • Create New...