Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Front Rotors $50, Electronic Boost Controller $30, R33 Seats $150, Z32 Afm Plugs $20, Rb Actuator, Freebies

nigelswazi
 Share

Recommended Posts

nigelswazi Mentor

nigelswazi

Posted
Posted (edited)

Selling the following items to clear out garage:

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Item: Pair of R33 Front Rotors in excellent condition heaps of meat left as shown in pic with only a little even wear since new. Measured thickness which is at 29.1 and 29.2mm so not even half worn. Fits R33 Caliper equiped vehicles

Price: $80 pair Now $50 pair

frontrotorsvc6.th.jpg

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Boost Controller - electronically activated boost controller valve allowing you to run stock boost and then at the flick of a switch run the boost level you set on the valve. Needs a switch as the one I used for this is still mounted on my console and too difficult too remove again :)

Price: $60 $30

boostcontrolleryo4.th.jpg

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Z32 AFM Plugs + ~30cm of loom ready to splice or wire into your loom to run Z32 AFM. Come complete with instructions on wiring into SR, CA & RB Powered Vehicles

Price - $30 Delivered or $20 pickup

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Pair of R33 Front Seats in excellent condition. The drivers seat has a small tear in bolster nothing major. This is the comfy plush velour type model with the adjustable side bolster wings for more support through corners etc.

Price - $150

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

R33 Stock Actuator in excellent condition to suit R32/R33 turbos

Price - $25 $20

acutatorjq2.th.jpg

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Aftermarket Swaybars

S14 Front 27mm hollow swaybar, same thickness as whiteline HD but a hell of a lot lighter, painted black complete with D bushes, saddles and end links. Hollow bars are generally how the japs make their aftermarket swaybars as they perform the same as solid but save weight which also increases handling. Unsure if it fits S13/S15 Price - $100ono

Stock Sway Bars - $25 each

R33 Front Stock complete with D bushes and saddles but no endlinks

R33 Rear Stock complete with D bushes but no saddles or endlinks

S13 Rear Stock complete with D bushes but no saddles or endlinks

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Freebies

Pair R33 Front Castor Rod Chassis Mounts

Pair S13 Rear 4 Stud Hubs

Location:

Adelaide but will post some items at your expense

Contact:

SMS 0404998591 or PM prefer SMS

Edited by nigelswazi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • Duncan
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...