Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So, last friday night, took the car for a drive and sitting at the lights, revs slowly drop, dash lights come on, give it a rev, she lives. I ended up having to hold the throttle open while at the lights to stop it from stalling. By the end of the night it seemed to be alright.

It also bad on cold starts. Need to have the throttle open otherwise it just keeps stalling. But, any more than 10 or so % throttle and it tries to stall. Ease the throttle on and its fine. Seems thats common 20 problem, so i wont worry too much.

Oh and its a Redtop ECCS 20 if that helps. No AFM because it has a Wolf 3D.

Ive cleaned the AAC and air reg. But still no joy. So i dont know??

I DO know that its running suuuper rich. Rev it when idling, no load whatsoever and nice sooty wet shit comes out the exhaust. Its obviously running rich to support the power, yes? I want to knock the boost back a bit and give it some timing. But i dont feel real comfortable doing it myself. And there doesnt seem to be that many tuners who like Wolf ECU's in Brisbane.

So for anyone whos got a Wolf, how could i knock the boost back and give it some more timing? I know the guy showed me, but buggered if i'll be able to find my way round the hand controller.

Also, a question about when it hits boost, just after 2k going up a hill or something you can hear the turbo spool up, 2.5-3k it starts to pull then just after 3k n BAM she shakes and the world is about to end. Sound like the boost curve of a stock Redtop turbs? I dont have a boost gauge, so unsure of when boost comes on or what its running

Thanks for any help! :down:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216399-rb20det-redtop-wanting-to-stall/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...