Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I get a loud crunch for about 1-2 sec everytime i start the engine and also loud tapping sound (sounds like pistons) when i first start my car in the cold morning. Now if i was to warm the car up, take it for a drive then turn the engine off to start it back up again to look for the sound, the sounds gone away due to it being warmed up. Hence, why is the reason i can't take it to any mechanic to show the issue. :domokun:

Ive only noticed this loud crunch for 1-2 on cold start after ive changed my oil to 'Elf Synthetic Oil 10W50'. This is pretty much all the relevant information i can provide from my knowledge, and also that the sound is coming from under the hood on the passengers side, kinda sounds like its coming from the head area on the passengers side where the turbo is and all.

Could it be that im using a real thick oil, hence is why its making weird noises on cold start till its warmed up?

Note: The crunch sound is only for about 1-2 sec on cold start and not constant whilst idling in cold or driving.

Much appreciated for any helpful response.

Edited by R33Turbo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223891-please-help-identify-the-issue/
Share on other sites

thanks alot for the input man. maybe it is the starter motor! how much is it to replace? or repair? aproximately? is it still driveable (as the sound goes away)?

Also i get louder engine ticking sound especially in the morning rather than when it was warmed up? could that be related?

I wouldn't wait too long to get it checked, if it is infact the issue and it's disengaging either slowly or not at all it will be spinning at higher revs than it's designed to for longer than it's designed to, the starter gear could shatter or lockup causing damage to your flywheel ect.

Starter motors use centrifugal force and a grooved shaft to throw out the gear, it could be clogged up and only need a clean or you may have to get it repaired or exchanged. You'll have to call around locally for an idea of availability & price. Auto elec places ect...or get a wrecker one.

It's not a huge issue or costly, so I do hope you find it to be the cause.

Edited by madbung

Could be an indication it's clogged up with grease/grime/oil ect when it absorbs the heat from use/engine it could free it up somewhat.

Then when it cools it sets again again...so to speak.

Get it checked out either way.

i've got the EXACT same problem, i'll have to check the starter motor

i think it may be the thickness of the engine oil we're using...maybe its just too thick! try thinner oil and let me know cuz my service is another 4000km away :)

Absolute rubbish, re: oil thickness...If someone can say why running thicker oil will make a grinding crunching mechanical noise on start pls share.

Thicker oil takes longer to fill lifters ect on start up so you'll get an extended tappet type noise until they fill up thats all.

It can not make grinding or crunching sounds, it's oil !!....thats the noise mechanical problems make.

This forum is becoming rife with bad advice..

Edited by madbung

Funny this. I've got excatly the same problem, clutch is in its last days and I get that crunching sound on cold start.

I've been suspecting the starter motor.

OH!!!

Yep well ive got a close answer now....

its definitely my 'starter motor' and its due to my clutch going ! (starter motor may be covered with clutch dust and seizing up)

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well you could certainly buy or build an enclosure for a pod in that corner of the bay. It is absolutely vital that there is a nice big opening to let cold air in to it from the front or underside, otherwise it will just pull air in around the edges from the bay, and if that air is hot, you gain nothing from enclosing the pod. There is lots of good evidence around (including on here, see posts by @Kinkstaah for example) showing that pods pulling hot air from the bay is only a problem when you're static or slow in traffic, and that as soon as you get the car up and moving the air being grabbed by the pod cools down. Although that will obviously vary from car to car, whether there is a flow of cold air to the pod or if it all has to come through the radiator area, etc etc. Obviously, the whole exercise requires as much thought as anything else does. Doing the lazy thing will often end up being the dumb thing. The stock GTT airbox has a cold air snorkel to feed it from over the radiator. Shows that Nissan were thinking. The GT airbox is upside down compared to the turbo one, yeah? Inlet at the bottom, AFM/exit on the lid? That might make it harder to route the turbo inlet pipe using the GT airbox than a turbo one. That would probably be the main reason I'd consider not using it, not that it is too small and restrictive. I'm looking at a photo of one now and the inlet opening seems nice and large. Also seems to have the same type of snorkel that the turbo one has. Maybe all that's required is to make a less restrictive snorkel/cold air inlet, perhaps by punching down through the guard like I did.
    • Also seen this as an option 
    • I get you, we’ll see I’m aiming for 200ish kw now and hopefully 300rwkw down the line after some upgrades maybe like headstuds, E85 flex fuel etc  so trying to make it final for that now, I can get a GTT airbox for $280 so it’s not too bad but not sure if there’s better ways to spend that money. I seen online they say pod filter which isn’t enclosed isn’t good especially for a plus T.      hard to say what to do
    • Meh. How much power can you make from a +T anyway? I wouldn't have though it would be enough to challenge the airbox. It's not as if it's tiny compared with the turbo one. As to putting a pod in a stock airbox .... it's not the filter element that would be restrictive. It would be the air inlet to the box that would be the narrow point, which you could open up regardless of what element was inside. On my R32 I opened up the sort of triangular opening in the bottom front corner of the box, deformed (heated, moulded) some 4" stormwater pipe to fit to that opening and punched a 4" hole down through the inner guard to the spot where the stock intercooler used to be. This was purely in the search for a cold intake, but you could do something similar if you need to open up the inlet side of it. The AFM tube size is the same for both NA and turbo, so the outlet from the airbox is same same anyway. If you're going to do the right thing, then an aftermarket ECU won't care about the AFM (ie, you can get rid of it). But even if it was still there, people pull >300rwkW through them all day, and I suspect you won't be going there.
    • R34 RB25de Neo by the way ^ 
×
×
  • Create New...