Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Selling my deck as I am going to get a DVD unit instead.

It's basically got everything you would want, awesome JVC unit. Retail price is $499

It's in near new condition.

I've posted it on ebay with starting price of $200. I will be happy $250 for (thats 50% off new price). Comes with the remote control (which sits in the glove box).

--------------------------------------------------

Description

# JVC's KW-XG700 CD receiver will fill your car's double-sized dash opening and your desire for big sound. The internal amp delivers your music loud and strong to your speakers, so you'll enjoy audio output that's a cut above most factory systems. JVC includes nine tone presets and three adjustable EQ bands so you can adjust for your car's acoustics and your listening taste.You don't have to stop with good sound the KW-XG700 will accommodate your system expansion needs. Built-in front-panel USB and auxiliary inputs make it easy to enjoy music files on a thumb drive or connect another audio source. You can use an optional iPod adapter to expand your listening options, or add a Bluetooth adapter for convenient hands-free cell phone use. Enjoy a wide range of music, sports, talk, and news by adding a satellite radio. CD receiver with built-in MOSFET amplifier (20 watts RMS/50 peak x 4 channels)

# plays CDs, CD-Rs, and CD-RWs, including discs loaded with MP3, WMA, and AAC files (will not play Digital Rights-protected music files)

# remote control

# Audio features:

# iEQ 3-band equalizer with nine presets

# 24-bit digital-to-analog converter

# subwoofer level and frequency controls

# Expandability:

# compatible with optional JVC iPod adapter, Bluetooth adapter, satellite radio, CD changer

# inputs: front-panel USB input, front-panel auxiliary input

# outputs: two sets of preamp outputs (selectable subwoofer output)

Features

# Steering Wheel Remote Control Ready

# Rotary Encoder Multi-Control

# Ready for Bluetooth Adapter

# TI/Burr-Brown 24-Bit DAC

# Wireless Remote Control

# Direct Track Access

# SAT Radio Ready

# Ready for iPod

# HS-IV Tuner

# 3 Band iEQ

Connect external devices through the USB port or Front AUX, to play MP3/WMA as well as WAV files. You can also enjoy Bluetooth® Wireless Technology* and iPod with optional devices. The MOS-FET power amp and TI/Burr-Brown 24-bit DAC ensure crisp and clear sound.

Highlights

• Power Output: 50W x 4 Max.

• MOS-FET Power Amp

• TI/Burr-Brown 24-bit DAC

• Ready for Bluetooth Adapter*

• 3-Band iEQ

• Ready for iPod**

• Front AUX

• MP3/WMA Compatible with ID3/WMA Tag

• USB Port (MP3/WMA/WAV/WMA-DRM)

• J-BUS Terminal

• Line Output Terminals (x 2 pairs)

• Subwoofer Output Terminals with Level/Frequency Control

• Tel. Muting with CD Pause Function

* KS-BTA200 required, not available in some countries

** KS-PD100 required

CD Section

• CD/CD-R/CD-RW Compatible

• CD Text

• Direct Track Access (1-12)

• Random/Repeat Play

J-BUS Section

• Bluetooth Adapter (KS-BTA200, not available in some countries)

• Interface Adapter for iPod (KS-PD100)

• Digital Player Interface Adapter (KS-PD500)

• CD Changer

• Line-In Adapter (KS-U57)

• AUX-In Adapter (KS-U58)

Bluetooth Wireless Technology Section*

• Hands-free call

• Voice Recognition Dialing**

• Audio Streaming and Control

• SMS (Short Message Service) Display***

• Phonebook Transfer

*KS-BTA200 required, not available in some countries

**In conjunction with voice recognition compatible cell phone

***Receipt notification only

iPod Control Section*

• Play/Pause

• Skip/Search

• Random/Repeat

• Text Display

* KS-PD100 required

USB Section

• Portable HDD Compatible

• Direct Folder Select (1-12)

• Skip/Search

• Random/Repeat

• +/- 10 Skip Function

Tuner Section

• HS-IV Tuner

• Station Name Registration

• IF Filter

• 18 FM and 6 AM Presets

• SSM (for FM)

• Seek (Up/Down)

• AFNS/PNC

• Stereo/Mono Switch (for FM)

• Auto Antenna

Amplifier Section

• Balance/Fader Control

• Volume Attenuator

• Loudness Control

• Max. Amp Gain Switcher

Display Section

• Switchable Dimmer

• S. Analyzer

• Power Switch Standby Illumination

• Variable Color Display

General Section

• Oval-Shaped Wireless Remote Control

• COMPU PLAY

• Power-Off Mode Eject

• Preferred Setting Mode

• Rotary Encoder Multi-Control

post-14128-1233031649_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...