Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey im so undecided as to what rims i should buy for my 33, i like so many types but i dont know what would suit my car, i like bronze and gold rims but i dont think they will suit my car, i had a feeling silver/chrome would suit it and im not really into black or white rims on a silver car, but thats why i made this thread, if u know a rim that might look good plz suggest it or even photochop it coz i have no idea wat rim i want (im looking around the 2k mark preferably under, for 2nd hand rims with tyres) ps, i know theres heaps of pics of rims, just pick 1 if u cbf :down:

heres a few shots of my car, i dont realy plan on lowering it but i may after i get new rims, as the front lip alredy scrapes on everything (daily driving ftl) and ill get some rear pods or something to make the back line up later on.

m7gykn.jpg

334n05d.jpg

14spogw.jpg

heres some enkei 17's (thats all the title said)

ad10y.jpg

heres some grenades, its a 17inch rim that looks like r34 gtr rims

vif7g3.jpg

29g0gpd.jpg

volk ce28 17's silver

2m84obo.jpg

xo0efk.jpg

volk ce28 17's bronze

2v8lhr9.jpg

67v0c1.jpg

advan rcII 17's

2itimmg.jpg

2wci5o8.jpg

AME fin 18's

2djrq5u.jpg

314xipw.jpg

enkei rp03 18's

1zn4kue.jpg

1zz198m.jpg

volk gt-p 18's in gold

20u63up.jpg

weds sa90 17's in bronze

2cr0umc.jpg

humx6x.jpg

work vs 17's

53k5z6.jpg

2ir6b2s.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262209-photoshop-request/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

i have exactly the same car, colour and dilemma.

kumhos are on special right now so want to upgrade to 17s but dont know how wide i should go let alone the rims, love the GTR look ones and gf thinks silver over gold..

ideas?

ps. awesome bunch of pics..more please!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • How have you run it in / what has been done in those 6 hours? Also, you need to do the test hot. You have to load the new motor pretty hard to bed the rings in quickly and properly, doing it on the dyno is best and only takes an hour-ish The other question is.....what were the measured clearances post machining and do they match the specs for the piston and rings
    • Sounds like a good outcome, must be nice to have it working well, and yes everyone seems to top out under 250rwkw with a low mount rb25 so you are in the right ballpark. It really would have been worth setting up the boost controller at the same time, but at least now you can share some back to back data on how much difference holding the gate closed until you need it makes
    • I've done this both ways, I'd use the original loom & swap plugs on the engine side as you'll usually end up changing a lot of those anyway. Series 1 is usually non ABS which requires wiring which I can't remember how to do as haven't done it for over 15 years. The auto inhibitor is easy to bypass or in the meantime you can put it in neutral & unbolt it & tape it somewhere in the bay haha, then just wire reverse lights. I'd go straight to aftermarket ecu. A few basics are built in ignitor coils & reverse the CAS wiring, sort the plugs for whatever injectors & IAC-you can use an adaptor for the neo type otherwise the s1 will still work, use the knock sensors that suit the loom & it'll be pretty much running.  
    • This is for an RB20DET. Sorry for not including that. 
    • Welp, this is where my compression lands after my rebuild. Thoughts? I have ~6 hours on the motor. 
×
×
  • Create New...